Sick angelfish?? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Sick angelfish??

Hi there, i have 3 angels in my 5 week old planted tank, while the rest of the tank and its inhabitants are going well my zebra angel wont eat, has stringy white poo and seems to be losing the metallic silver from the top of its body.
The only info i have found has suggested internal parasites?? The problem i have is that i dont have a quarantine tank..... i have raised the temperature a little to 28 which is as high as i can go without upsetting the other fish...
Any ideas as to resolve this problem?
many thanks
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 11:35 AM
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pictures, water params, and a list of other tank inhabitants would be helpful, but it does sound like it could def be an internal parasite with the stringy poop. There are a veriety of meds out there for internal parasites if that is what it is. I have actually had luck with medicated flake food, but I know there are a lot of ways to treat. Hopefully someone better with illness treatment can give you better advice than I can, but I def think pics etc.. would help with diagnosing. Good luck with your fish.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that, if my zebra isnt eating how can i give medicated flake?
Is medicated flake ok for plants etc...?
55g bow front
1-2" eco complete topped with 1" small pea shingle
1 x 54w T8 7500k white - 12hrs
1 x 54w T8 7500k tropical pink - 12hrs
20+ mixed plants including grasses, java moss, crystal wart, Aponogeton henkelianus, sunset hygro, floating frogbit etc some planted on bog wood.
eheim 2026 filter
fluval 205 filter
and 2 fluval heaters, one each end - 26 degrees- raised to 28
Ammonia and Nitrite are at 0, nitrate between 5-10 with a ph of 7
medium hard water
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 01:36 PM
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The following includes worming / parasite treatments some of which are plant safe and water column dosed for fish that have quit eating. Hope something here can help you.
Entry quarantine for me is about 45 days.

Worked hard establishing my systems and like the fish I have.
I would not expose them to other acquired fish without a full quarantine including parasite and deworming treatments. Sick fish are very hard for a hobbyist to treat so I avoid the potential being very careful.

Some of my personal experiences posted to the web and my thoughts handling fish. (learning the hard way)
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fish/117216-how-long-new-fish-holding-tank.html

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/119268-completely-confused.html

The treatment most miss all together is to WORM YOUR FISH! We treat our dogs, cats, pigs, horse's, cows,,, the list is endless. but not our fish. Not anymore for this fish keeper.
I now start internally with all new fish and go from there.
1st flubendazole, 2nd levaisole hcl and metronidazole, most everything's covered for parasites.
Flubendazole and levaisole hcl are water column dosed and help even when fish hunger strikes.
Flubendazole is a plant safe parasite treatment but has to be ordered online (to my knowledge). It covers a broad range of bugs too. (not all but a bunch) *** it also kills snails but is safe for shrimp by user reports including folks here on TPT.
Velvet and ick are also covered by a flu treatment Doc sells as little or as much as you want.
http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html
Article links;
http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleTreatment.pdf
http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleArticle.pdf

External treatments include H2O2 and salt. (salt use is really rare for me)
Initial bacterial treatment (bare tank scaled fish only) if indicated is a 3% HP bath. Standard over the counter 3% hydrogen peroxide mixed to 10mL per gallon.
1 U.S. Teaspoon = 4.92892159 milliliters
2 teaspoons of H2O2 per gallon is perfect!

2-3 hour soak then 50% WC, 24hrs. later another 25% WC and the treatment is complete.
This treatment is the dose used to kill algae and practically all bacteria and parasites, protozoanís, etc.

3% topical hydrogen peroxide treatment in an established tank.

Treatment of 10mL per gallon is still the dose used. Established treatment at this dosage is to isolate the filter (shut it down) allow for circulation with a power head or air stone. 3-5 hour stand time (longer due to tank bacteria in gravel etc,) on the treatment then do a 50% water change followed by a 25% water change after 24 hours. The filter can be restarted after the 50% water change. Delicate plants can melt.

This is the highest dosing of HP recommended by fish breeders on my other favorite website. I've used this dosing level twice to good result and followed the water changing recommendation.

HP has strong oxidizing properties. It is a powerful bleaching agent. The oxidizing capacity of hydrogen peroxide is so strong that it is considered a highly reactive oxygen. (Wikipedia)

H2O2 effects the slime coat and really weakened fish don't handle it well. Scaleless fish are burned bad enough not to survive.

Back in 2009 I treated mine with H2O2 and antibiotic's both gram negative and positive. Thought it helped. Knocked back the external signs but left latent parasites internal to the fish that destroyed them from the inside out.

Nothing gets into my systems now without 45 day's of treatments and observation.
Really hope this info helps.

Salt dip:

I asked JP for his recipe as I don't use it much.
This bath is in a separate container with a close eye on the fish.
Many different methods, Ted just uses his brine shrimp solution (if thatís like mine itís 1/2cup per gallon).

I prefer to start with 2Tsp per gallon and increase at 10-minute intervals until I get to 6Tsp per gallon total. That way theyíve been in the salt longer and my logic tells me that the parasite, etc. has been exposed longer. With Tedís method, I would think fish would roll in a few minutes. With my method, they will generally roll within a few minutes @ 6Tsp per gallon Ė some roll at 4tsp/gal.

Pre-dissolve the salt and add slowly from side containers.
Set up your gallon container (bucket or whatever) with the first 2 tsp dissolved in it and have cups holding the remaining salt in solution.
Watch the fish the whole time.
When the fish heels over (rolls belly up, on it's side in distress) net it and put it back in the tank.

*** This is angelfish treatment information. Scaleless fish such as loaches, Cory do not tolerate salt well at all and salt baths generally kill them.

Hopefully some of this will be useful to you or tucked away until it is.


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If at first you don't succeed,,, keep kicking it
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2-75g planted, 3-55g planted, 110g w/30g sump, 2018 update returning to sanity (Nutz)
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 01:42 PM
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you can try mixing their food with garlic salt

add food+garlic salt with water to make a mash

then clump it up and let it dry
then feed it

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