20 long as a quarantine and hospital tank? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-05-2020, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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20 long as a quarantine and hospital tank?

I just broke down my 20 long, put the swordtails in my 75g, and am trying to decide whether I want to use the 20 long for a quarantine/hospital tank or just buy a 10g for that purpose and set the 20 long back up as another tank. I tend to keep common fish, and most I get in are small when ordered. The only larger fish I would have to hospitalize would be my angelfish, and where the height of the 10g and the 20 long are the same, there would be little advantage to the 20 over the 10. Maybe try to find a 15g or 20 tall? Am I worrying about nothing? I like the 20 long format as a display tank. That's how mine originally went from a quarantine tank to a display tank.

A couple more questions about quarantine/hospital tanks. Do people keep them running constantly or just when needed? If only when needed, how do you deal with the nitrogen cycle? Seeded sponge from another tank?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-05-2020, 05:22 PM
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Lots of different answers for how we each do things. One big item that I keep in mind is that we all do really do things different, so we have to allow for that.
Keeping a QT full time is only needed if we do lots of fish buying or have lots of sick fish! If we need it often. keeping it set is right but many of us do not have new fish very often after we get started and leveled out.
So that is where I am and only keep a ten in the closet and work it this way.
New fish often do not eat well for a few days, so I feed little to none for the first week and then only when I see they actually eat the first flake that I add. I want new fish to get the best chance I can give them, so do lots more water changes on the QT (smaller=easier?) so the combo of little waste going in and lots of water changes to dilute it, makes it work when I also combine it with moving used media into the filter on that tank. The used media bacteria jump up almost as quick as the bio load increases as they begin to eat and I begin to feed but I still do lots of water changes as there are there. I view clean water as the best med around---also cheap!
Size does have to be adjusted for the size fish but I never ship in large fish but tend to do small and grow out, so ten is my preferred size for what I do. But that needs adjusted if you order in 40 small fish or one big horse!
Keep in mind that QT does sometimes mean we want to treat fish with meds and doing it in 10 gallon costs only half as much as 20 gallons, so factor that in as well. You can often get close to buying 10 and small filter for the cost savings of treating a larger, even if the 20 is on hand. One round of med can blow the whole program so QT is one way to save money wasted on meds!
Clean water and adequate space is far the more fun, cheaper way to go.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to get a 10g for quarantine. I'm going uncovered and no substrate. I will keep water in it, not necessarily cycled, to keep humidity in the air as it's in my bedroom. I just need to figure out how to quick cycle if needed. I traded a pre-filter with my 75g, added some BB and a bit of ammonia. Hopefully it will get the cycle going as I have a dozen harlequin rasboras ordered. Most likely they will be in by the end of the week.

Is there any need for a light on a timer? I have a small desk lamp. Where there are not any plants I figure that there is no need for a lot of light during quarantine.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 02:10 AM
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Light only as needed to let you see what's going on with any spots, etc. on the new fish but the cover may be a risk as new fish seem to be a bit more spooky and lots of types do jump.
In my view a dim tank for QT is pretty good and one way to get a cheap cover is to drape a big towel over the top and maybe put some weight on the tails to keep it from drooping down into the water. The towel over the top and part of the sides makes some fish feel less nervous and we can still peek when we want to check them. If they act really nervous and dart around too much, something to hide in and around like cups can give them quick places to hide if they feel like it.
One thing on the good bacteria we need is that it does jump up way faster if we have any sort of used media as it doesn't have to start with group one, wait for them then start with group two before getting up to the job. The used media has one and two already there but just in smaller numbers than we may need but they jump up very quick when semi-started already.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
Light only as needed to let you see what's going on with any spots, etc. on the new fish but the cover may be a risk as new fish seem to be a bit more spooky and lots of types do jump.
In my view a dim tank for QT is pretty good and one way to get a cheap cover is to drape a big towel over the top and maybe put some weight on the tails to keep it from drooping down into the water. The towel over the top and part of the sides makes some fish feel less nervous and we can still peek when we want to check them. If they act really nervous and dart around too much, something to hide in and around like cups can give them quick places to hide if they feel like it.
One thing on the good bacteria we need is that it does jump up way faster if we have any sort of used media as it doesn't have to start with group one, wait for them then start with group two before getting up to the job. The used media has one and two already there but just in smaller numbers than we may need but they jump up very quick when semi-started already.
Cool. I had a carbon sheet from my other HOB filter that I stuck in the filter. That and the pre-filter might get things going quickly. I'll have to see if I have something I can put on top. I have the HOB filter mounted on the side for better circulation, so I want to say away from a traditional lid. I may also "borrow" a resin cave from another tank and I think I still have some plastic plants I can put in for some hiding places.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 03:01 PM
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Since I don't want the new or sick fish to be able to hide totally and not let me see them, as well as to make it easy to siphon, I find a plastic cup does really quick and easy if I add a small rock inside to hold it down and make it kind of stay in place. Then If it is a larger fish and I want a larger cup, some of the bucket sized cups are cheap to get and I cut a portion of the bottom out both as a back door for the fish and to let me have a better chance of getting a good look. With the rounded shape of the side, as I do lay them down, there is little debris gathered there. This is a place where appearance is totally second to how it works, so cheap cups and cheap rocks is one way for me to get plenty of hiding without doing too much. Rocks tend to grow on top of the ground around me!
For HOB filters, I don't try to get the full top covered but just cut the open space and opportunity to jump out way down. I've found the corners can be folded on towels and held with clothspins or even some of the really large paper clips if the material is thing like a dish towel. Fish are happy if they don't see new faces for a while when they've been moved.
Whatever works?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 04:33 PM
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I would not drape a towel over an open tank. If part of it falls in the water while part of it remains hanging outside of your tank, it will slowly wick water out of the tank. It may be so slow that it wouldn't cause much damage, but who wants to risk it?
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