New member needing some advice .... - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-30-2020, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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New member needing some advice ....

Iíve had several saltwater aquariums. I got too busy and gave up that hobby about 10 years ago. I really enjoyed it and have missed having them. Iíve always been drawn to the planted tank displays at aquarium shops. I decided to give that a shot and get back into the hobby. Iíve set up this unit and havenít put water in it yet as I make a few tweaks.

All-Glass 110 X-High - 48 7/8Ē x 19Ē x 30 3/4Ē
Drilled with small overflow boxes in upper corners in the back
Cabinet hood with 2 - 175w 6500k metal halides (it also has 2 - 96w compact fluorescents, but these are of the 4 square pin design .... which I think is obsolete)
I install heated cables on the bottom and covered them with a couple inches of Flourite substrate
The overflows are draining into a sump
I added a UV sterilizer
I added a submersible heater in the sump in case the cables couldnít keep up
I bought a large CO2 tank that I had filled
I also got the Milwaukee dosing setup
Iím returning the water to the display tank through a 3í spray bar located a few inches above the substrate, along the back

Questions:
1. Will I get enough CO2 bleed off with the wet/dry to warrant buying a canister filter instead?
2. I plan to return the CO2 enriched water through a spray bar at the bottom of the display tank. With the lack of surface agitation, will my fish be getting enough oxygen?
3. Do I need to supplement my halides with more light?

Thanks so much for taking the time to read this lengthy post and commenting.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 03:18 AM
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The overflow boxes are gonna act like surface skimmers so there is going to be a good supply of oxygenated water going to the filter. The sump should have good gaseous exchange. Your setup would have more potential for gaseous exchange than a canister filter. With that being said one may use more CO2 because of this fact but should not be enough to warrant changing your setup.
The lights should be plenty even with the huge 30" height of your tank. If for some reason that's not enough you can still find the square pin power compact bulbs out there on the interwebs. https://www.marineandreef.com/96W_10...p/res54064.htm
The only problem I see might be the placement of the output spray bar. Typically most of us have it at the top, either flowing from one end to the other or front to back, across the top then down across the bottom then back up to the intake.
This site has tons of good info https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/...-of-co2-safely
You want the water to circulate completely from top to the bottom. This not only distributes the CO2 to the entire tank but facilitates good gaseous exchange.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information RLee. Iíll probably move the spray bar and order a couple bulbs.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 08:34 PM
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I would take the heater cables out of your substrate. You don't need them and I'd be nervous about possible affects of off and on heat on delicate plant roots.

On your compact fluorescents are they actinic? You will need some blue light to balance out the 6500 bulbs. Another option would be to buy a single bulb T5HO retrofit kit(or two). Then you'll be able to try different bulbs to get the color you like.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-03-2020, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks mboley. I need to order two bulbs for my fixtures. They have either 10K or actinic. The heater cables would be a pain to dig out. I can heat the water through the sump. I plan to see if thereís any benefit to heating with the cables.
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