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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 05:10 AM Thread Starter
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Need Help New to planted tank

Hello I recently cycled this 65 gallon 24 inch tall tank with eco complete. At first everything was growing well but a few days ago i noticed the stunted growth of the plants valisneria had runners, the sword has new leafs but are invisible, the bacopa is light green and the ludwigia is now browning and looks horrible. I have a finnex fugeray planted +. Im not dosing since the tank is fairly new and the soil is new not even 3 months since tank was started. I need suggestions from someone that has expierence in this. Was thinking about buying easy green plant fertilizer and easy green root tabs from aquarium coop any suggestions are welcome. Thanks I included some pics of the tank.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 06:16 AM
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Eco complete really has no nutrients of its own, you have to dose water column. Eco complete is not soil. I wouldn’t worry about root tabs for now.

How often do you change water and how much?

Have you taken any nitrate and phosphate readings?

Am assuming this is a non CO2 tank?

If no CO2 then you probably just need light dosing. Easy green would probably be about 3ml twice a week if doing 20-30% water changes once a week.

Thrive is also a good choice for a all in one fert.

Last edited by DaveKS; 10-19-2019 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Content
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 06:35 AM
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You honestly dont need to do big water changes as much in a planted tank unless your adding fish. Eco complete is a CEC substrate so all the nutrients in your water are contained in the soil. "Invisible " leaf is growth. Without co2, your plants won't be as robust in a short time. Which also means you dont need high light for an extended period of time (which could be the reason of browning leaves )and you also dont need an enormous amount of ferts.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
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Yes this is a non CO2 tank, nitrates measured 40ppm the other day. I do 20 to 30 percent water changes per week and keep the light on approx 8.5 hours straight a day. Never have measured phosphates. The ludwigia has a lot of new leaf growth but it is not green. So thrive is better than easy green for what is happening currently with my tank?

So how much light per day would be adequate? Currently I leave the light on for 8.5 hours straight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Eco complete really has no nutrients of its own, you have to dose water column. Eco complete is not soil. I wouldn’t worry about root tabs for now.

How often do you change water and how much?

Have you taken any nitrate and phosphate readings?

Am assuming this is a non CO2 tank?

If no CO2 then you probably just need light dosing. Easy green would probably be about 3ml twice a week if doing 20-30% water changes once a week.

Thrive is also a good choice for a all in one fert.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leandro23 View Post
Yes this is a non CO2 tank, nitrates measured 40ppm the other day. I do 20 to 30 percent water changes per week and keep the light on approx 8.5 hours straight a day. Never have measured phosphates. The ludwigia has a lot of new leaf growth but it is not green. So thrive is better than easy green for what is happening currently with my tank?
Yes this is a non CO2 tank, nitrates measured 40ppm the other day. I do 20 to 30 percent water changes per week and keep the light on approx 8.5 hours straight a day. Never have measured phosphates. The ludwigia has a lot of new leaf growth but it is not green. So thrive is better than easy green for what is happening currently with my tank?

Last edited by Darkblade48; 10-19-2019 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 08:13 AM
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See that's the thing. No one knows, you have to figure it out lol. I assume Since you dont have co2 (excel doesnt suffice) you only need the light on for about 6 hours ( I would start with that and see what happens) and about a light tap on the pump of thrive. For how often a week for thrive, that's for you to find out. On the other hand, If you were to have co2, one full pump a week would be fine since you do about 20 gallons of wc a week. Ontop of that, you arent heavily planted so like I stated before, you dont need alot of ferts . Itll just create more problems.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leandro23 View Post
Yes this is a non CO2 tank, nitrates measured 40ppm the other day. I do 20 to 30 percent water changes per week and keep the light on approx 8.5 hours straight a day. Never have measured phosphates. The ludwigia has a lot of new leaf growth but it is not green. So thrive is better than easy green for what is happening currently with my tank?
Thrive and easy green about the same thing, never used easy green. Thing about both of them is they both have nitrates and phosphates, your tanks nitrate reading is already high enough. To me your lighting is medium intensity so 6-8hr a day should be fine. You really should do a few bigger or more water changes to get nitrates down to around 20ppm. You might need to start feeding a little less. Have you tested your change water for nitrates? Could be it already has nitrates.

And Ludwigia turns that nice bronze’ish color in adequate lighting, it doesn’t stay green. When you start doing light dosing you can expect it to get even more red in color. Big thing I see with Ludwigia is you need breakup that bunch and spread them out more . Go on about 1.5-2” spacing per plant. This allows more light to reach lower leaves and keeps those lower leaves from falling off. You’ve got enough stems in that clump to fill that whole back right corner and also make a small cluster back behind sword in that 1 bunch of plants.

If your nitrates and phosphates always stay higher on their own (comes from feeding your fish) then a fert like Fluorish and Seachem potassium might make better sense for your tanks needs.

Last edited by DaveKS; 10-19-2019 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Content
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your help appreciate it

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leandro23 View Post
Yes this is a non CO2 tank, nitrates measured 40ppm the other day. I do 20 to 30 percent water changes per week and keep the light on approx 8.5 hours straight a day. Never have measured phosphates. The ludwigia has a lot of new leaf growth but it is not green. So thrive is better than easy green for what is happening currently with my tank?

Thrive and easy green about the same thing, never used easy green. Thing about both of them is they both have nitrates and phosphates, your tanks nitrate reading is already high enough. To me your lighting is medium intensity so 6-8hr a day should be fine. You really should do a few bigger or more water changes to get nitrates down to around 20ppm. You might need to start feeding a little less. Have you tested your change water for nitrates? Could be it already has nitrates.

And Ludwigia turns that nice bronze’ish color in adequate lighting, it doesn’t stay green. When you start doing light dosing you can expect it to get even more red in color. Big thing I see with Ludwigia is you need breakup that bunch and spread them out more . Go on about 1.5-2” spacing per plant. This allows more light to reach lower leaves and keeps those lower leaves from falling off. You’ve got enough stems in that clump to fill that whole back right corner and also make a small cluster back behind sword in that 1 bunch of plants.

If your nitrates and phosphates always stay higher on their own (comes from feeding your fish) then a fert like Fluorish and Seachem potassium might make better sense for your tanks needs.
You are right i need to cut back on the feeding, will be doing what you said, i will bring down the light to 7 hours and i believe i have a bottle of flourish at home. Thanks for your advice.

Last edited by Darkblade48; 10-20-2019 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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