Priming this Canister- PLEASE clarify - The Planted Tank Forum
View Poll Results: Dry start or Overfill priming?
Dry start 1 50.00%
Overfill 1 50.00%
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Priming this Canister- PLEASE clarify

Eheim canister filter.... EHEIM Classic Canister Filter 2211, Classic 150 - PetOverstock
Directions say 'dry start'
Online says 'overfill and seal'


Which is it? I had a hell of a time last time I tried to do a dry start.... then my second I did the 'overfill' method and it was messy and not sure if it worked any better.


Two of the three always seems to have air bubbles in it no matter what!

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 12:05 PM
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Install the filter as if it was in operation. Suck air out of the return line creating a siphon in the intake line. Let the filter fill up and settle out, turn filter on, gently move it / rock it / lean it until most of the air bubbles are out, then let run as is. Any remaining air trapped will be gone within 12 hours or so.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. This is why lily pipes are a pain in my toosh.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livebearerlove View Post
Thank you. This is why lily pipes are a pain in my toosh.
I just suck the air out of the intake right above the disconnect (when I use lily pipes.) You have to be fast at putting it back on though.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 01:20 PM
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I am currently using 3 Eheim Classics and the manuals for all say fill her up. When you plug it in, make sure the outflow is above the water line so that the residual air can be purged easier. I also start with disconnect fully opened on the intake end and about half-opened on the outflow. I belive that creates a slightly higher pressure in the filter and helps to push the water over the "hump" of the outflow.

Getting a Classic back to 100% operational takes me about 5 mins. The Pro 3 and 4 are the opposite for me - I can suck, and puff, and shake, and press the darn prime button for an hour, especially if the filter has non-Eheim tubbing or their "intake / outflow kits". That's one task I dread with Pros.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:08 PM
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How I start the classic is crazy easy.
I have quick disconnects on the intake and the output, I believe they came with the filter.
Shut both to remove the filter, when you are ready to put it back into service.
Do not hook up the smaller return hose yet.
Hook up the large infeed hose, and open both valves.
Now open the valve that is on the end of the smaller return hose that is attached to the top of the filter.
You can watch the water fill the filter.
When it gets close to the top, close the valve so it is only open a little, this slows the water coming in.
This will give you time to close the valve when the water makes it to the out put hose, and you won't make a big mess.
Now hook the out put hose up open every thing, plug it in, and you are done.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:38 PM
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Some basics that apply to all filters which have the impeller/pump at the top of the canister, should work on all.
Think of what it takes to make a siphon work and then apply it to the tube taking water from the tank to the canister. Water runs downhill, right? so manage to fill this intake line with water, but leave the rest of the system empty.
The manuals I look at here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/39...?page=3#manual
Indicate two methods that they recommend. Page three/diagram "H" indicates using a sucker to drawn water through the system, while diagram "H1" indicates you can fill the intake tubing through the top if you have the intake with opening at the top.
But the idea is that water will run down this intake, fill the canister from the bottom to the top as it forces air up and out the outflow. This will only happen if you leave the canister empty so that the air can move past and not be blocked by water in the can or outflow tube.
Siphons are simple and we should all be able to do that or get into another game!
But where we tend to mess up the program is when we leave water at some point along the line so that it blocks the air from moving out. Engineering students will certainly argue that air is less dense than water and all kinds of high level techie talk but it doesn't take much to find that is WILL NOT go down through water to come up!
Where we often run into trouble is the way we place things like reactors which hold water, inline with the output tube. Leave that water in the path the air needs to use to go out and you are quite likely to have trouble priming.
Keep it simple. Water runs downhill and air will go up if the path is open.
To fully clear the small amount left after priming, some like to tilt the can to let that bit get out, but leaving it alone will let it work out after a short time, but ONLY if you have done it right up to that point.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info- I seem to be getting more and more tanks, im in a unique situation without easy access to important things. Because I do in fact have custom lines and its in a strange position (tucked underneath a desk). I did the best I could. I fiddled a thousand times with every single leaver- watching a giant air bubble not get past a certain point- but never OUT. Intake off, Output on, vice versa until my fingers cramped. Getting frustrated, left it.

By the time I returned, it worked.... no air bubbles, it solved itself. But for the record I did a 'wet method' and created the vacuum early but filling with water and sucking/sealing it. Made quite the mess... but well worth it.

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Last edited by livebearerlove; 07-10-2019 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Typos- writing on my phone.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVT View Post
I am currently using 3 Eheim Classics and the manuals for all say fill her up. When you plug it in, make sure the outflow is above the water line so that the residual air can be purged easier. I also start with disconnect fully opened on the intake end and about half-opened on the outflow. I belive that creates a slightly higher pressure in the filter and helps to push the water over the "hump" of the outflow.

Getting a Classic back to 100% operational takes me about 5 mins. The Pro 3 and 4 are the opposite for me - I can suck, and puff, and shake, and press the darn prime button for an hour, especially if the filter has non-Eheim tubbing or their "intake / outflow kits". That's one task I dread with Pros.

Funny thing, just cleaned my Pro4 and tried to prime it and nothing happened.
Noticed I had the valves still "off".
Opened it and it immediately sucked water in to siphon..
Somehow the closed valve and priming created a small vacuum in the filter
Easiest priming I ever did..
Pumping while open was always annoying as it was hit and miss.



Would be curious to see if others can repeat it..

Oh yea classics were always suck and prime..
Once in awhile one could fill..seal and go.. but not too often.. IF I remember correctly.
Def wasn't the go to move..
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Funny thing, just cleaned my Pro4 and tried to prime it and nothing happened.
Noticed I had the valves still "off".
Opened it and it immediately sucked water in to siphon..
Somehow the closed valve and priming created a small vacuum in the filter
Easiest priming I ever did..



Would be curious to see if others can repeat it..
That is what I did..... I sucked a bit, turned the valves off. Plugged it in, opened one side.... waiting.... then the other- creating pressure. Then the little sucker 'sucked'. (pun intended).

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 05:57 PM
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Not sure the logistics of your setup, but if you want to reduce the mess you could put the whole filter in a bucket or a plastic container so any splashing will go into that instead of on your floor or cabinet and then you can easily put it back onto the disconnect and not worry about a mess.

edit: Should have mentioned this earlier. This intake set makes it easy to fill up the canister to get it running. It has access on the top.

https://www.amazon.com/Eheim-AEH4005...ustomerReviews
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livebearerlove View Post
That is what I did..... I sucked a bit, turned the valves off. Plugged it in, opened one side.... waiting.... then the other- creating pressure. Then the little sucker 'sucked'. (pun intended).
In my case.. filter unplugged..
Valve shut
pump..pump..pump.pump..
Open valve
Canister filled.
Plugged in..

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 07:07 PM
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Making it way too hard, folks!
If there is water in the intake tube and no where else in the lines, like canister, reactor, or output line, stick the intake under the tank level water and let the water in the tube run downhill. It will certainly pull more from the tank and that is a siphon. It will siphon until the canister is full and fill up the output tube to the level of the tank water and this includes the area around the impeller. Since the impeller does have water, it will pump that water out and pull more in, so I can't think of any more that I require of my filter than pulling water through!
If you have some form of cutoff in the line, closing that before you disconnect the filter to clean will leave the tubing full so all you need to do is drain the canister and output side, reconnect it all and open the last cutoff so that water flows.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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I think we are all saying the same/simlar thing?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
If there is water in the intake tube and no where else in the lines, like canister, reactor, or output line, stick the intake under the tank level water and let the water in the tube
If that water in the intake isn't past the curve (and it usually isn't) you aren't going to get any siphoning..

still need to start it by sucking on the outlet side..

you could fill the inlet tube but that has it's own set of problems..

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