I've been reading up on CO2 systems, and I read that most single stage regulators are essentially the same: the improvement comes with dual stage regulators, which aren't prone to end of tank dump like the single-stages are.
However, I read the problem can also be avoided by the use of a pH controller, which would shut off CO2 before an EOTD situation turned deadly. Since the difference between single- and dual-stage is about $100, and pH controllers run just over $100, why wouldn't I want to get a single-stage and a pH controller instead of the dual-stage?
I briefly looked into building a two-stage, but I thought it would be out of my league. If it's pretty simple, maybe I'll go that route.
I'm having trouble keeping the parts and costs straight between the DIY and non-DIY routes. Just to clarify - $200 would get me a premade dual-stage (or $100 a single-stage), and I'd have to spend about another $100 on other parts (solenoid and needle valve). However, if I went DIY, I could put the whole thing together for under $200. Either way, I'd have to spend a bit more on a bubble counter, tubing, a check valve, a diffuser, a 12v power supply, and a timer. Is that correct?
Yea, little argument there..in the long run it's usually best.. Short of low tech.
Saf-t sorb and "Turface" are both fairly coarse..and sort of light. Not sure if CEC controls roots though. Got my personal opinion on CEC's that is prob. not real popular..
Out of the coarser soils I still like non-CEC like Flourite better..
Kessils aren't "warmer" (rated 6000-9000k) except maybe the VERY NEWEST one.. forgot the model
and yes t5's (orrelated t5hp,8's little difference except wattage oh and dia for 8's )
Main point was they used a lot of wattage and no "fancy' colors.. Simple whites..well the few I checked..
Plenty of LED's that one can "warm" up but the sad part is you end up sacrificing power..and in a sense at full you are still under-powered over the "usual"t5 wattages people run.
Problem w/ some "warming" of LED's is cheap phosphors and low CRI..
And CRI isn't always equal either..The one I posted had "average" CRI of 80..but due to certain advantages of tubes a LED CRI of 80 isn't like an 80CRI of tubes..mostly due to a broad blee spread of tube phosphors and a very weak spread w/ led's..
Not insurmountable obstacles but takes either expensive LED's, company that will customize, or DIY for the most part..
I've read that some theorize CEC can reduce floating roots. It makes sense, but it hasn't been proven. I figure either way, it's probably better to have a substrate that isn't inert.
Isn't 6000K fairly warm? (Ironic and somewhat confusing that a "warm" temperature corresponds to a cooler radiator.) At any rate, I'm hoping I can find a store that runs either the Satellite or the AI Prime FW to see what those are like - I was just mentioning that I thought my LFS only ran Kessils.
For better or for worse, I'm pretty set on LEDs. I used to run old-school PC fluorescents and metal halides (on my reef tanks), but ever since going to the sleek LED fixtures I can't go back.
I'm thinking of doing something DIY with floodlights. I found a 50W 6000K floodlight
for $26. I'm thinking I could run a pair of those and a few less-powerful RGB lights (if I could find a cheap DC one) so I could fine-tune colors to my liking. It could be controlled by the TC420
(or something like it), and I think I'd have a nice setup for under $200.
Although at that point, it's tempting to just drop the extra $200 on a pair of Prime's to have something proven and easy.