225 Gallon Questions - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
YEG
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225 Gallon Questions

Almost ready to start the Aquascaping on the 225 Gallon just had a couple of questions.
The plan is mostly carpet and low height plants.

Dimensions:

72" Wide
30" Deep
24" High

1) Powerhead and WaveMaker, initially wasn't going to use any, but after seeing the debris from the cut PVC just sit on the bottom of the tank while doing a water test, I'm thinking I might need some. Do you think a Wavemaker on let's say on the right side of the tank and a powerhead on left pointed up would be enough?
I plan on vacuuming every week, just have to figure out how to get to the bottom lol

2) In regards to injecting CO2, if I put the diffuser right next to the return pump in the sump, that should be good enough?

3) How can I fill the tank all the way to the top, its a Eurobraced style tank, is it suppose to be a few inches lower than the top? If you keep filling it, it would eventually fill the sump through the overflow box.

Thanks in advance, couldn't remember my old account so I have to start over, happy to be back!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 12:36 AM
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Anything that stirs the water surface up is going to encourage and facilitate the exchange of CO2 and O2 at the surface, and could obviate trying to dose the tank with CO2. IMHO, the best CO2 generator is lots of fish.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1307 View Post
Anything that stirs the water surface up is going to encourage and facilitate the exchange of CO2 and O2 at the surface, and could obviate trying to dose the tank with CO2. IMHO, the best CO2 generator is lots of fish.
The OP is talking about inject Co2 for his plants

Quote:
Originally Posted by YEG View Post
3) How can I fill the tank all the way to the top, its a Eurobraced style tank, is it suppose to be a few inches lower than the top? If you keep filling it, it would eventually fill the sump through the overflow box.

Thanks in advance, couldn't remember my old account so I have to start over, happy to be back!
Your water in the tank is depend on the position of your overflow box. The water will start to go into the overflow box and down to your sump at soon at it reach that level. I like my water level to the top so when I drilled my 375 gallons I made sure that the overflow box is at the height point at possible

Last edited by Darkblade48; 06-05-2019 at 06:09 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 04:50 PM
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The water in the sump and tank will balance, and you want the water level in the tank just .25 to .5" below your euro brace, not a few inches. But you didn't say anything about your overflow so I assume you have an efficient one.

You have a big tank so you need to plan your flow, both within the tank and from tank to sump. My recommendations are as follows:

-Buy a powerful Variable Speed DC pump for your sump and divide the return to the tank in two. Check out Waveline DC pumps, being able to change the power of the pump will allow you to dial in your flow.

- you likely will still need a Power head style pump inside your tank. Not a Wavemaker, you're not doing a reef. Buy a wide mouth wide flow powerhead or possible two. Between the return from the sump pump and 1 or 2 powerheads create a circular flow in your tank.

To be blunt, it sounds like you're anxious to get the tank stocked before you have the water flow dynamics figured out. It's a big tank, it's important you have plumbing down first!
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 02:35 PM
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That sounds almost exactly like the 225 I used to have; same dimensions and all that. I would HIGHLY HIGHLY VERY STRONGLY recommend setting your overflow up for full-siphon/Herbie operation and setting up a dedicated Cerge's reactor running from and back into your sump. The full-siphon drain system not only keeps things quieter and can handle higher volume than standard downdrafts, but it's much more gas-efficient. With a big tank like yours an effective CO2 dissolution system is an absolute must, and a Cerge's reactor is by far the best means of accomplishing that. With a tank that size you'll probably need multiple chambers linked together to handle the amount of gas you'll need, keep that in mind.

Like others have posted, it's imperative that you take the time now to get the life support and in-tank circulation systems set up properly. It's not like a small tank that can be easily disassembled and replumbed, and if there is (when there is) a problem it's not a simple, easy, or cheap fix. Please take as many detailed pictures as you can to share with us so we can help you get set up properly from the start.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25cube2019 View Post
I like my water level to the top so when I drilled my 375 gallons I made sure that the overflow box is at the height point at possible
Yeah I wish mine was at the highest point, it's about 1.75" below the brace, so I'm assuming that's the highest I can have it at.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mboley View Post
The water in the sump and tank will balance, and you want the water level in the tank just .25 to .5" below your euro brace, not a few inches. But you didn't say anything about your overflow so I assume you have an efficient one.

You have a big tank so you need to plan your flow, both within the tank and from tank to sump. My recommendations are as follows:

-Buy a powerful Variable Speed DC pump for your sump and divide the return to the tank in two. Check out Waveline DC pumps, being able to change the power of the pump will allow you to dial in your flow.

- you likely will still need a Power head style pump inside your tank. Not a Wavemaker, you're not doing a reef. Buy a wide mouth wide flow powerhead or possible two. Between the return from the sump pump and 1 or 2 powerheads create a circular flow in your tank.

To be blunt, it sounds like you're anxious to get the tank stocked before you have the water flow dynamics figured out. It's a big tank, it's important you have plumbing down first!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Edwards View Post
That sounds almost exactly like the 225 I used to have; same dimensions and all that. I would HIGHLY HIGHLY VERY STRONGLY recommend setting your overflow up for full-siphon/Herbie operation and setting up a dedicated Cerge's reactor running from and back into your sump.
I have attached some pictures of the current set up.

- Using a Octopus Diablo DC Pump, 2773 Gallons per hour, when doing a water test of the tank I had it about 40-50% power.
- Will be going with the Herbie Style for the quiet operation
- I have 2 drain pipes, and 2 return pipes.
- The plan was just to have the CO2 diffuser right next to the intake of the pump, but will look into the Cerge Reactor.

The reason I didn't want any powerheads was honestly because of the wiring, once the cabinets were installed I wanted everything hidden, but I don't think that is going to happen now.
So I guess my question is, where should I position let's say 2 Powerheads, 1 on the bottom left side pointing straight ahead and then 1 on the bottom right pointing at an angle up to push the debris into the overflow?

What are your opinions on the Maxspect Gyre systems, local seller has a XF230 and XF150 for sale, maybe one of those would be enough and provide the right circulation?

Thanks for all the responses, appreciate the help and concern! I am very eager to start stocking plants but no rush due to the rocks not being here for another few weeks. Excuse the dirty glass and the sand, started to clean the sand and had to empty some of it. Scratches are on the black background.



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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:05 PM
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Looks like you have a great system planned and the money to do it.

You said, "Using a Octopus Diablo DC Pump, 2773 Gallons per hour, when doing a water test of the tank I had it about 40-50% power"

Your in-tank water level problem is easily solved, you just didn't have your pump turned up enough. Is that 2773 gph figure the flow at the rim height of your tank with the pump at only 50% power? If it is that's one hell of a pump!

Where is the water level when at 75% or 100% power? Turn it up and your water level will rise. If it doesn't rise enough at 100% power then your overflow slots are oversized, which is not a bad thing.

This also can be solved by blocking the lower portion of the slots by gluing a piece of abs, pvc, acrylic across the lower portion, thereby raising the water level. Or you can use underwater epoxy to block.You will need to add more water because the sump water level will be lower with either of these solutions.

If you determine that your pump will push at least 1500 gph at the height of your tank rim you may not need any in
-tank powerheads. Look at the head pressure chart of the particular model you have, you didn't say. Also, it's important to use the recommended pipe/ hose diameter for that pump.

You'll still need to split the return line back to your tank to get a circular flow going. Use Locline nozzles with a section of their modular tubing. Also, install ball valves on each return line to give you more control. Put one in each back corner, one pointing diagonally toward the center front panel and the other pointing across the back.

Try this first, get your tank completely planted and only then can you determine if you need in-tank powerheads. If so you won't need to put them low in your tank, that'll move your plants more than you want or need.

Since you have a big tank and I assume budget, I'd highly recommend Tunze wide mouth pumps. They are small, powerful DC variable speed pumps. Take a look at the 6040, it will hardly be noticeable in your large tank and will push up to 1100+ gph.

I used to keep large reef tanks, had a 240 and 135, 14 ft of viewing length in one room at the height of my addiction. Your project is going to be a blast!

I just looked at your sump picture and your nice wood floor. YIKES!! You need to do some water proofing or your floor is in trouble. The easiest solution, if you can find the right size, is to install a plastic tray under everything. Take a look at white poly containers made for RV storage. They come in lots of different shapes and sizes and you'll find one that will work. Buy a long shallow rectangular shape and cut it as necessary. Very easy with a jigsaw. May find a shorter one you can cut in half resulting in two trays that will cover the length.

If not, find a plastics supplier and buy ABS sheeting and glue. Again, its easy to cut and you can glue together a waterproof tray with an exact fit. First glue with the abs glue, then run a bead of silicone to make sure.

Another sump issue, the water flow coming down your drain pipes. If it is coming straight down its going to be noisy and possibly splash with lots of bubbles.

I'd do two things:

1. Lengthen your drain pipe to slow the water flow with elbows and a horizontal length(s) before it enters the sump. And

2. Buy a standard 7" Filter bag and a 7" lid made for Pyrex containers ( on amazon). They fit together perfectly. Cut a hole on the Pyrex to fit tightly over your drain pipe.

These two mods will quiet the water fall into your sump, immediately filter the water, and in theory, reduce gass-off of your CO2 with the bubbles contained inside the sock and lid.

Lastly, in that sump picture I see a just a small box of ceramic bio media. You're going to need A LOT more than that. And that standard plug in the background, I would change that to a GFI.

The planning and set up of good system is a very enjoyable part of the journey. Enjoy it!

Last edited by Darkblade48; 06-09-2019 at 05:02 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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