Building a 300 Gal setup Input would be appreciated. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Building a 300 Gal setup Input would be appreciated.

Hello, I am starting to plan a setup for a 300 Gal heavily planted tank. The tank is a marine-land 300 gal deep dimension I am still in the planning stage and haven't thought about stocking or types of plants as of yet but want to get a plan made for the equipment. The biggest unknown for me is lightning i know i want to go LED and it seems like the market is flooded with new LED's constantly. i will be running a sump but haven't decided how big i'm actually going with the sump as of right now i'm thinking ill be using a 4 foot 120 gal tank and building a sump. if anyone could give suggestions on equipment it would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 05:38 AM
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I'm not too familiar with lights, but I'm sure others will chime in with what might be best.

However, one thing to be wary about is the actual weight of both the aquarium and sump when filled! You should make sure that the floor can support that amount of weight, since 420 gallons of water (plus more for decorations and substrate!) will weigh a lot!

Anthony


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 08:00 PM
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Yes that aquarium will be HEAVY

For sump I am using a DIY sump with plastic containers. I'm sure the same can be done for the 300 gal with bigger containers
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah i understand the weight will be approx 4000lbs. the tank will be in my basement with concrete floor so that's not a issue. I think lighting the tank will be the biggest decision. I have hand plenty of tanks in the past and have built a few sumps out of other tanks. I just have never had a dedicated planted aquarium before.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:20 AM
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Get ready to spend some serious money on lighting lol. I would advise against led personally and go with t5 for the power and spectrum but that depends on overall goals. Just to get even spread with decently moderate lighting with led will be four fixtures. Not saying donít do one thing or another as Iím sure youíre aware of the high overall cost of a larger tank. But consider looking into t5 if you want decent par and spectrum for that depth and width.


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:30 AM
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@jeffkroll is pretty knowledgeable on the lighting side of life. I do know that my EcoTech Radion lights will put a lot of power to the substrate of my 18" deep tank. For the money, the SB Reef lights will power most any situation.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 04:02 AM
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oh damn, 72 x 36 x 27. if you decide to go with 18" sbreef, youre gonna need at least 6 of em hung up 10" from the water surface. this is assuming you dont pop off the 90 degree lens and swap to 120 though

there's probably some combo of 3x sbreef in the center and some bar style leds in front and back but i dont really have nay suggestions for the bar styles


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Last edited by SingAlongWithTsing; 05-22-2019 at 05:32 AM. Reason: ...
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 06:10 AM
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Starting low

even 3x 72" beamsworks is about$400
24,000 Lumens...

Not quite the punch of 90 degree lensed diodes though.

Tubes aren't really good at going deep either ..
small emitters but 90 degree reflectors..
There 5000 ( yes 5 thousand) hr rating is a bit of a put off and it's reef centric overall but 3 panels should work well..
$330-ish..
https://www.amazon.com/Bozily-Aquari...gateway&sr=8-9
Quote:
Specifications

Dimensions: 22.1*11.8*0.7 inch
Net Weight: 2.93 pounds (1330g)
One light is ideal for 32x18” coverage
338pcs High Intensity 0.5W
Input: AC 110V-240V
Frequency: 50-60Hz
Working Temperature: -4įF~+122įF (-20℃~+50℃)
36 wide is a bit problematic..

costs escalate from the above fairly rapidly..
8 AI-prime freshwater would set you back $1600..but should get you 40000 lumens ish
comparison:
https://heavygardens.com/sun-blaze-t...iABEgLjR_D_BwE
x3 = $233.. plus possibly changing some bulbs ..add about $60

5000 x 12 = 60,000 lumens
not sure where they get 5000L from per bulb..bit on the high side..but 40,000 isn't unreasonable..

A bit of a warning LED lumens are more ...err.. efficiently delivered so it's not really a 1:1 situation..
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Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-22-2019 at 06:40 AM. Reason: edithttps://www.plantedtank.net/forums/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=11208793
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the lighting info JeffKrol I knew going into this project lighting was/is going to be a huge overall cost of the setup. The led's off amazon seem to be a decent relatively cheaper option and i could always upgrade going further. I truly appreciate all the input everyone has given me.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:44 AM
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I have a 150 gallon (4'L x 30"H x 24"W) lit up by 2 Radions XR15 and I lack light on the bottom corners of the tank. I'd probably go with 3 LED Pendants in the middle of the tank with one row of T5 HO in the front and back. You can use the T5HO for a midday burst, and the LED fixtures are great for programming and controllability. What part of CNY are you located in?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 04:48 AM
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Welcome @rebelution82! I didn't realize that any 6' tanks at 36" wide existed! Such a big playground for plants! If you go CO2 be ready to plug through the gas, my sumped 125g using a beananimal setup goes through a 20lbs tank in about 2-3 months on average.

I myself just picked up an 8'L x 24"W x 30"T 300g acrylic tank, isn't it quite exciting figuring out all the options of such a big tank!?

300g 8' acrylic aquarium acquired, in process to build/setup/plan setup

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:27 PM
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Don't forget you can also go DIY and build the lights you want in a canopy. I have three standard light fixtures in my canopy wired up to two switches. I currently have two LED flood lights up there. You could do even more and have them all the way across your tank. Take a look at the thread below... This is where Bunsen Honeydew created his lights using 12 light fixtures with 16 watt light bulbs. If you build it right you will have no dim spots in your tank.


https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11183675-post6.html


I am about to rebuild mine as well. I want more than three lights up there. I currently have two flood lights and three LED systems but I want to be able to move the LED systems to other tanks. I am also trying something new and using Philips HUE lights. That way they are programmable and I can do sun rise\sets and timers and all. But that is still being tested.


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 01:40 AM
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I've found the information that usually accompanies LED lighting to be a bit cryptic, and had to do some research.
LED fixtures seem to vary year by year. A few years ago you could buy fixtures using 3 watt LEDs; today, they're a bit rare as most manufacturers make "balanced light fixtures" made up of various colors (degrees Kelvin LEDs) of .5 watt LEDs rather than dedicated light sources utilizing a handful of plant-friendly 5600 K 3 watt LEDs. The reason is simple: mixed colored lights are more generic in a "one size fits all" sort of way, supposedly good for salt tanks as well as planted tanks. Not really. Walstad notes in her book that plants mainly utilize light at 5600 K for photosynthesis. In other words, generic fixtures may waste much of their light and power providing aesthetics rather than the band of light used by plants for photosynthesis. Translation: you may need more watts of "balanced light" than you would if you only used "dedicated plant lights at 5600 K."
Your choice: nice colors and lots of power draw, or dedicated LEDs and less power draw; more aesthetically-pleasing light, or "better for the plants." Actually, you may find that you don't really have much choice in terms of what's available retail.
In the "old days" of fluorescents and Halogen bulbs, the general rule of "so many watts per gallon" was pretty restrictive, mostly because fluorescents and their reflectors were enormous and bulky, and halogens practically required their own A/C units, cooling fans, and outside venting. With LEDs, one to two watts per gallon (or more) is not overkill, especially with deeper tanks, and can make a tank glow like Chernobyl. If you're into that.
And if you are handy, regardless of tank size, there are plenty of hobby kits, parts, power supplies, heat syncs, and even controllers to make your own LED fixtures. Though they're not necessarily cheap, they offer the ultimate in flexibility.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 06:32 AM
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Walstad notes in her book that plants mainly utilize light at 5600 K for photosynthesis.you may need more watts of "balanced light" than you would if you only used "dedicated plant lights at 5600 K."
Not really intending on arguing that point but it's a bit generic..

5600k led "whites" is not in any sense equal to 5600k "black body' emission spectrum..
Neither is florescent or metal halides..
Only incandescent types can do this
Even mixing RGB you can create 5600k light .
That is CCT more specifically which is an artificial way of producing a "K" temp...

Easiest way is to couple the CCT and CRI (using d50 or d65 as a reference source) to get you closer to a true 5600k temp.

Shift to smaller emitters occurred mostly due to the fact that research pushed efficiencies so the small emitters watt for watt produced more photons/unit of energy than the bigger 3w-ers.
Then there are COBS which are just many small emitters in a tight package..
It now probably only takes 2-3 1/2W led's to do the work of one old 3W-er, which are rarely driven at 3w's anyways.
Ther is still a place for them since they are easily lensed so to collimate the already tight spread (in comparison to competing technologies) which will push more light deeper than larger
angle small emitters. Currently only know of one light that is small emitters w/ 90 degree reflectors..
all part of the geometry of light moreso than the photons..


One only needs to look to hort. lights which attempt (still young) to maximize output at the expense of any resemblance to daylight K values or CRI to understand that yes best light can b ugly light aesthetically but it also is not in any way a "k" light..


Pure red and pure blue diodes are very high in usable photons w/ little to no waste so throwing those in a "white" diode fixture is always beneficial in a photosynthesis sense.. being close to 100% PUR (photo synthetically usable radiation).



Design a light around the above action spectrums and I guarantee neither will be near 5600k.
"crop plant" could be around 4000k
https://agradehydroponics.com/blogs/...-and-spectrums
Quote:
For example, growers have found greater success growing a young plant under cool white 6K lamps all the way through a growth (vegetative) cycle, then switching to a 2K lamp to flower or fruit, and finally finishing the growth cycle using a 10K lamp for the final 2-3 weeks. This has shown to generate better results compared to growing under a single colour spectrum / colour temperature.

When using different lamps with different colour temperatures for plant growth, it is important to keep in mind that the colour temperature rating should be used as a general guide for the approximate colour spectrum that will be produced by the lamp, the actual colour spectrum is what you should look for when choosing your light. The Colour Temperature will tell you the range of colours the lamp will produce, but not the exact amount of each colour produced within that range.

now to add to the complication.. photosynthesis is not the only consideration..
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Last edited by jeffkrol; 05-30-2019 at 06:50 AM. Reason: edit
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