As in most things we do---it depends!
I do a lot of wood collecting and I have used a number of the woods which we read ar not usable. Things like cedar! So I have a bit different thinking than what I often read as much of our info is based on the person writing the info and it is true that much of our info comes from areas where the water is soft and acidic with little buffering qualities.
I find that the wood is a primary factor but not due to which species as much as other factors like how it may hold the sap/moisture/tannins or whatever name we use. In that area just under the bark is where much of the sap is found in many trees and that also makes a difference in how the wood will react in our tank. Some woods like cedar, pine, and the "softwoods" hold the sap and are famous for lots of sap and not rotting. That's why we build fences from cedar.
But there are also some hardwoods which also hold the sap for a very long time if we get a really thick piece as the wood does dry from the outside to inner layers. The nut producing trees, hickory, walnut, and pecan, are some that give me somewhat more trouble. Not that they are unusable, just that I have to be more aware and careful when picking them.
Most will agree that some woods do have chemicals which may be a problem, so we need to look at what we can do to avoid that becoming a major problem enough to avoid that wood? Kind of like the hazard of crossing a street when I want to get to the other side, I need to figure out what to do? Still a hazard but not bad if I don't get killed!
I have learned to use the wood but only when I can avoid the sap and it sounds like you have a good start on knowing totally dry wood when you find it and that plus my water are the keys to being able to use most any wood I find. Hard, alkaline water has lots of buffering quality built in, so I have a good start there, so I move to finding totally dry wood. Too much sap added to the wrong water can give more changes, too quickly, while drier wood added to different water may only be a small irritation until the color clears in a few months.
I often am not able to define the species very well when the wood is totally dry as many of the ID markers like size, shape, leaves, bark, and location will often be gone but when looking for dry, those clues are always there. Drier woods give fewer problems, even in the worst species, while fresher wood with moisture left will give increasing odds of problems in the trees which dry slowly.
In my experience?
Walnut seems to be a problem way past reasonable, cedar has to dry for decades, pine, too soft and never while pecan and hickory can work, depending on size and bulk, truly dry oak is fine and smallish sticks of various types are often usable as they are thin and dry quicker.
I judge the wood, not the species and the worst case I find is that I may have tea colored water which prompts me to pull that wood out and replace it.
A good long bleach soak for at least overnight is my method for easy clearing any questions of "wildcards" being added.
Go for it!