Thought I Knew What I Was Doing - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 03:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thought I Knew What I Was Doing

I've had my 75g tank up and running for about 4 years as a low-tech, mildly planted Tanganyika cichlid tank. Sold off all the livestock, did some maintenance and started restocking within 24 hours. 5 weeks later and i'm starting to grow brown algae?!?

Setup:
75g display tank with foam & concrete 3d background
Current Satellite Freshwater + LED lighting, 1:00 PM - 9:30 PM, tank doesn't get much direct lighting otherwise
20g sump running 3 sheets of porret foam for filtration and a continuous drip system changing out about 5 gallons a day.
pool filter sand, field stone & driftwood, crypt & java ferns for years with no problems
I'd add DIY CO2 and Seacham Fourish now and again to fill out the plants quicker if the fish beat them up.


New stuff....
8 penguin tetras, 5 Apistos, 9 Panda Corys, 2 juvi bristlenose - added 5 weeks ago
large Amazon sword, large tiger val & java moss on the drift wood, 5 Gudgeons, 4 kuhli loaches - added 1 week ago

My buddy gave me a CO2 tank and regulator, so I set it up in my sump at 5-6 bubbles per minute starting a Noon (hour before lights) and go off at 9:00 as the lights start to fade out. 5ml of Flourish 3 times a week. My old DIY CO2 use to run full time and dosing slightly more just to replenish the plants then I'd pull it off.

So the right side of my tank is getting some brown algae growt on the rock faces & background face. The left side of the tank isn't getting the same algae bloom, but there's more leaf cover with the java fern on the drift wood. My return is on the right side of the tank, but I don't think that has much to do with it. All the LED's are functioning on my light, so I'm a bit lost on the algae growth on one side.
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75g that has rolled through various incarnations over the years...
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 04:27 AM
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What is the flow like over those specific areas?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 05:29 AM
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I think I might reduce the photo period or add some floating plants.

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60g Marineland Community, Finnex Planted+ 24/7, Silica (pool filter) sand.
10g, 29g, & 37g fry grow out tanks, 110g stock tank w/40g sump.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 01:04 PM
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I have a 75G with an overflow and I had very similar issues for the first months. Try to inject your CO2 right before you pump it back into the tank. I use an inline reactor on the return pump. You should also pick yourself up a solenoid if you don't have one so you can automate your CO2 timing. I find that exact timing really helps plants to grow. A drop checker will give you a rough idea of how much CO2 you have in the tank. That helped me to find a flow rate that would balance both the plants' absorption and counteract any turbulence (off-gassing). I have never used a continuous drip water exchange but it sounds neat. Personally I use a Python and exchange about 45 percent once per week. These are just some ideas - sadly I'm no water quality/algae expert. I do know that I killed off my black beard algae by putting in red root floaters and Siamese Algae Eaters. Good luck!

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 01:09 PM
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I forgot to mention that separating your light cycle could help. That's what I did with mine to combat algae. It allows more CO2 to build up so that when they come back on the plants can start a new cycle. I think I've heard some people call it a "light siesta". I do five hours on, 1.5 off and then 5 on again. It works very well.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 07:25 PM
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If you haven't changed anything else regarding your maintenance routine or light cycle, my bet is on overfeeding for the new level of stocking of plants and fish.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCFC View Post
What is the flow like over those specific areas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjbacon View Post
If you haven't changed anything else regarding your maintenance routine or light cycle, my bet is on overfeeding for the new level of stocking of plants and fish.
I'm running about 1/3 of the flow rate vs the Tang' Cichlids I had before. You can still see the whole tank "circle" so I don't think it has any less flow than the rest of the tank, but does have less overall flow than the previous setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willgair View Post
ry to inject your CO2 right before you pump it back into the tank. I use an inline reactor on the return pump. You should also pick yourself up a solenoid if you don't have one so you can automate your CO2 timing.
C02 is on a solenoid & timer, as noted in the original post it comes on an hour before the lights and goes off as the lights ramp down. I set up my manifold for 2 outlets, but currently only using 1. I'm panning to make a reactor and add a 2nd return to the tank, helps with circulation as well as dissolving CO2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willgair View Post
I have never used a continuous drip water exchange but it sounds neat. Personally I use a Python and exchange about 45 percent once per week.
Greatest thing I ever did with a fish tank. The cichlid tank didn't need any maintenance for 6 mo. with stable water parameters. The actual maintance would tank maybe an hour. Pull 1 sheet of foam and wash it out, vac the mulm out of the sump and a quick vac of the tank. Crack open the valve on the drip to refill then fire the pump back up one the sump has warmed back up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AbbeysDad View Post
I think I might reduce the photo period or add some floating plants.
I took an hour out, so the light starts ramping up at 2:00 (full light at 2:15) through 9:30 (ramps down at 9:15). So hrs 7 of full light. Well see how this goes or I might split the light schedule up as noted elsewhere.

75g that has rolled through various incarnations over the years...
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