Q1: the water's forced down from the canister vent tube at I believe 350 GPH and the 6
jets cause the water to circulate pretty fast. the Fish are constantly swimming against it and I think they drift about an inch per second if they stop. I'm guessing all the water makes a full rotation around the tank once every 30 seconds or less. I was worried this was to much, but will try to get a link to a video so you can see this better than in a still pic and tell me if it's really too low a flow..

You may have too much flow for the fish then. Are you able to reduce output flow on the canister? If so, go for it.

Q2: I currently have the 11 inch version of this LED but just ordered the 19 inch and I believe that should be enough light for the Scarlet Temple once I re-plant it out of the shade from the driftwood.

That looks like it will be more like than you need. Don't be afraid to use the dimmer. Light drives the metabolism of the plants; the higher the light the faster the metabolism, and the increasing need for "tech". If you're going low tech, keep the light on the low side. You'll have to experiment to figure out the sweet spot for your system, but I wouldn't go above half. A bit of advice; don't expect pearling or the super lush look high folks with high tech tanks have. Low tech systems can't achieve that 99% of the time unless they're years old and are well settled. Lots of folks starting out fall into that trap and end up getting so frustrated that they quit. Just like the light, take it easy, make small adjustments each time, and you'll find your sweet spot in the hobby.

Q3: Ok thanks .. how long should I run the LED timer ON typically during the day?

I would start at 6 hrs/day and have it on when you're home to see it. Eventually the goal is to get to 8 hrs, but you need to get experience keeping the tank and the plants need time to settle in before increasing light. Again, like rules everything in the tank and determines everything except fish feeding. Don't overdo it and you'll do just fine. Don't forget to start a build thread in the Low Tech area so you can have a place all your own to share progress and get regular feedback.

Unsolicited advice- This is YOUR tank. Don't let anyone else push you into doing things (Unless you ask me for answers on what to do /irony. ). YOU are the one who sees the tank everyday. YOU are the one who cares for it. YOU do what YOU enjoy with YOUR tank and YOUR hobby.

Thanks again Phil.. Hope it posts this time.. here's my tank photo again..[/QUOTE]

You're welcome again,
Phil

Bump: With:

CO2 @ 12ish BPS
2x 54w T5HO 6 hrs/day
7.5ppm NO3 3x/wk
1.0ppm PO4 3x/wk
20ppm Ca 1x/wk
5ppm Mg 1x/wk
Traces 3x/wk
60% WC 1x/wk



Bump: I updated pictures of the tank the other day and just put a new picture up before posting.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12...high-tech.html

Glad to hear you found a solution.

You're quite welcome. I enjoy it, and like Greggz said. I wish I'd had someone to do this when I was starting out.

There's been a lot of debate on the necessity of CO2 in low tech tanks since the hobby started, but I'm going to say this. CO2 benefits planted systems 100% of the time; high tech, low tech, or no tech and I personally advocate using CO2 in every single planted system. I won't do a planted tank without CO2 of some sort again. After light, CO2 is the most important and essential thing one can add to a planted tank. For your tank, getting an LED fixture that can put out decent light, I would get an ISTA setup (unless you have the money for a full pressurized gas system). They're not inexpensive, but they're well worth the investment and will pay dividends over the long term.

For beginners I recommend using one of the brands of liquid fertilizers for a couple of reasons.

1. They're much harder to overdose.
2. They typically have good directions that are easy to understand.
3. No recognized brand; Seachem, NilocG, Brightwell, etc will sell a product that would harm your tank as it would put them out of business.
4. Being able to not worry so much about fertilization allows you to observe your tank more and learn how the plants and overall ecosystem responds to the things you add.

Yes, dry ferts are cheaper per unit of active ingredient, but there's also a steep learning curve associated with them. As a beginner you're better off cutting your teeth, as it were, using premade liquids, even if you are a chemist or biologist.

For now, I would get the CO2 and leave it at that while you learn how it affects things. That may end up being all you need. If not, then look into ferts. I'm familiar with Seachem so would recommend their Flourish line, but people I respect highly have said good things about Thrive, and there are fewer bottles to worry about. The choice is yours. Whichever you pick, just follow their directions as written. Breaking the rules will come once you've learned the rules.

Regards,
Phil

Bump: If it's that bad and you're willing to take the risk, dose the tank. Otherwise get a QT going as fast as you can, treat the fish, and keep them out until the worms die. That's the best alternative I can offer.

Phil

What are some large but peaceful cihlids. I am building a 120 gallon that will be heavily planted, staying from 80°-90°,sand substrate, have lots of dragon stone, bogwood and spider wood, will have medium lighting, a powerful canister filter
And will hopefully be inhavitated with a male and female African Leaf Fish and a large colony of cherry shrimp (300-400). I would prefer Cichlid living in or around North and South America and/or Africa.

Unfortunately, cichlids and shrimp don't mix. Even rams will go after the smaller ones and eventually your colony will age out and die as the young get eaten. Acara and Severums are nice peaceful cichlids that do well in planted tanks, but they get kind of large 6-8" is a good average. Angels are a perennial classic. If you're willing to put in the effort ahead of time, growing out young discus in a non-planted tank, then planting it when they're full size is always an option too. If you've got the money, buying adults from a reputable breeder is a great option. Any of the dwarf cichlids: Apistogramma, Rams, and Pelvicachromis species are ideal for heavily planted tanks.

Hope this helps,
Phil

Thx and i will not put shrimp in. But I have decided on the fish I will put in and I was wondering if any of your original options will still work
1.angel fish
2. Bristle nose pleco
3.african leaf fish
4.eletrick blue Cichlids
5. Turquoise jewel Cichlids
6.pearl,sunset and blue gourami
7.Birchir
I was also wondering if I could put in a pair of firemouths

Also if I could stay under the $10 range that would be better

Hi,
I want a stock suggestion.
I currently have silver hatchet-fish, neon tetras, glowlight tetras, and otocinclus in a planted 20 long with plenty of places to hide.
Was thinking of adding 1 very colorful fish. Need something that will be happy as a single fish among the communities.
Thanks in advance

I bought some stones for my SpecV tank that I'm setting up and when I tested them with vinegar I could hear the sizzling. Since the tank is only 5.5 gallons, I'm concerned that my water chemistry won't be stable. I also bought dry ferts for EI dosing so I was intending to do 50% weekly water changes instead of several little ones. During the week, will hardness just keep going up and then suddenly drop when I do a water change? I was hoping to keep some RCS and a group of small tetras.



Any plant suggestions? I'm planning on using stock lights, pressurized CO2 and EI dosing.

I'd leave the Bichir out as they're predatory. Otherwise the list looks good. Just make sure to put pots in for the cichlids to spawn in and don't be surprised if some of them uproot plants to make a nest.

Bump: Hey there Sandra and welcome to The Planted Tank! Would you please tell me how many of each of the above fish you have and what filtration you've got running? If you can upload a picture of the tank that would be helpful too.

So even the fire mouths as well?

If those rocks are indeed carbonate-bearing then yes, your water chemistry will change as the CO2 converts to carbonic acid and eats away at the carbonate in the rock. You're right to be concerned about fluctuation in such a small volume of water. I want to commend you for testing and doing research ahead of time. Lots of folks don't.

If that substrate is something like Fluval Stratum or Amazonia, it will help keep KH in check, but it won't handle it all. My suggestion would be to either get new rock, or forego the high tech route. If you do decide to continue with CO2 and fertilizers a Smidge, Dash, and Pinch (1/16, 1/32, and 1/64 tsp) measuring spoon set will be really helpful.

In small tanks like that I would stick with Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC), small grassy plants, Anubias nana 'Petite', small Bucephalandra, and fine leaved stems such as Rotala wallichi, Ludwigia brevipes, Didiplis diandra, and the like.

Hope this helps,
Phil

Bump: In a 120? As long as you only got a pair, sure. They'll likely be your most aggressive of the cichlids, but they should have space to do their thing and not cause trouble.

Are the fire mouths okay ? Cause I really like them and am hoping to put some inside

I have a reasonably big Amazon Sword, and would like to make cuttings/propagate it. How do I do that?

Yes, but I'd stick to a single pair. If you really like them, then I'd not put the other cichlids in and go with Firemouths by themselves.