what is the proper way of shutting off co2? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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what is the proper way of shutting off co2?

i want to know the proper steps to turning off a pressurized co2 system. I also have a solenoid and would like to know if this has to be disconnected when removing the reg and post body to do a refill. which knob gets closed first, the reg one or the one of the actual co2 tank?

TIA


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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:32 AM
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All you have to do is turn off the cylinder valve and remove the regulator. You can leave your regulator valve and needle valve set where they are so you don't have to mess with resetting them.

The solenoid power doesn't make much difference. You should unplug it just as a good practice that you unplug anything electrical when you aren't using it. But it is not like the lack of pressure or flow is going to harm it.


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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:39 AM
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It depends on what regulator you have. Milwaukee regulators have to have the adjusting knob on the regulator backed off completely - even removed - before opening the CO2 valve on the CO2 tank. How you shut it off isn't important, but how to turn it back on later, is very important to avoid ruining the outlet pressure gage on the regulator.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Jason. I'm asking because i disconnected everything today to put in the 3 way manifold and when i put everything back my High gauge didn't go up but my low gauge was picking up the psi which was at 10 or so.

Now, i just saw that not even my low gauge is registering. i tried upping the psi and it stays at roughly 5psi no matter what. the bps for each one is still at what i had it set it at but one of them is like 1 bp/2s no matter how much i open the NV.

This is become a little to frustrating and i'm seriously thinking of ditching everything at this point and just do low tech.

can my cylinder have had lost all it's co2 when i disconnected it? i know the valve was fully closed though. It had around 700 this morning

any thoughts?


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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
It depends on what regulator you have. Milwaukee regulators have to have the adjusting knob on the regulator backed off completely - even removed - before opening the CO2 valve on the CO2 tank. How you shut it off isn't important, but how to turn it back on later, is very important to avoid ruining the outlet pressure gage on the regulator.
these were my steps exactly when disconnecting

first i unplugged my solenoid,
then i closed the knob on my reg to fully closed
and lastly i closed the cylinder valve on the co2 tank.

then when i started it up again i followed darkblades instructions which are:
having the reg fully closed and slightly opening the cylinder valve.
THEN i opened the reg up to about 10psi but my high gauge wasn't registering how much co2 was left.



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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickztahone View Post
these were my steps exactly when disconnecting

first i unplugged my solenoid,
then i closed the knob on my reg to fully closed
and lastly i closed the cylinder valve on the co2 tank.

then when i started it up again i followed darkblades instructions which are:
having the reg fully closed and slightly opening the cylinder valve.
THEN i opened the reg up to about 10psi but my high gauge wasn't registering how much co2 was left.

I think you misunderstood my instructions.

You have to have the regulator fully open (i.e. the knob should be loose, and you should be turning counterclockwise). You should do this before opening/closing the main CO2 cylinder valve.

When you open the CO2 cylinder valve, the high pressure gauge should jump up to read the pressure within the cylinder. Then, you turn the regulator knob clockwise to set the delivery pressure to the desired pressure.

Anthony


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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
I think you misunderstood my instructions.

You have to have the regulator fully open (i.e. the knob should be loose, and you should be turning counterclockwise). You should do this before opening/closing the main CO2 cylinder valve.

When you open the CO2 cylinder valve, the high pressure gauge should jump up to read the pressure within the cylinder. Then, you turn the regulator knob clockwise to set the delivery pressure to the desired pressure.
so i might have messed up my reg is what you are saying? because now i don't think either of the gauges work. i should probably take the whole reg to airgas and see if they can test it. It can be tested right?

i really misunderstood your instructions then


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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if i turn the knob on the reg counterclockwise it will close the reg though. it doesn't get loose if you turn it counterclockwise. this is why i thought it was meant to be closed.


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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:56 AM
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You could have blown the low pressure gauge, but it is very unlikely that you could have blown your high pressure gauge as well. Without the regulator attached, what happens if you open the cylinder a little bit? Do you have any co2 left in there?

Even if you happened to blow the low pressure gauge, it is a pretty easy fix to replace it.


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yikesjason View Post
You could have blown the low pressure gauge, but it is very unlikely that you could have blown your high pressure gauge as well. Without the regulator attached, what happens if you open the cylinder a little bit? Do you have any co2 left in there?

Even if you happened to blow the low pressure gauge, it is a pretty easy fix to replace it.
Could I have messed the reg up though? I ask because at one point I couldn't increase the bps on one of the three ports. It had a low bps and stayes there no matter what. I need to read instructions at least 5 times now i guess, 3 isn't enough. Can the reg itself be tested at an airgas you think?


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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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So when I use to turn the regulator knob the psi's use to increase/decrease. Now it doesn't. Could busted gauges cause the regulator knob not to work?

Sucks, I wont be able to make it to airgas until Wed


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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickztahone View Post
if i turn the knob on the reg counterclockwise it will close the reg though. it doesn't get loose if you turn it counterclockwise. this is why i thought it was meant to be closed.
Which regulator do you have, exactly? Most turn counterclockwise to decrease delivery pressure (i.e. open position), and turn clockwise to increase delivery pressure (i.e. closed position).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickztahone View Post
So when I use to turn the regulator knob the psi's use to increase/decrease. Now it doesn't. Could busted gauges cause the regulator knob not to work?
No; broken gauges will not affect the regulator's performance.

Anthony


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
It depends on what regulator you have. Milwaukee regulators have to have the adjusting knob on the regulator backed off completely - even removed - before opening the CO2 valve on the CO2 tank. How you shut it off isn't important, but how to turn it back on later, is very important to avoid ruining the outlet pressure gage on the regulator.
I have mostly Milwaukee regulators and the only thing I do is unplug the solenoid and close the cylinder valve before removing. I don't touch the control knob, it's already open somewhat from it's working position, but I'm sure it couldn't hurt to open it fully. Most of the time the regulator get's ruined because someone thinks they have to close the control knob completely. This is fairly common with pre-builts since it's usually someone's first regulator. I have at least 3 Milwaukee's that are more than 3 years old with zero problems.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Which regulator do you have, exactly? Most turn counterclockwise to decrease delivery pressure (i.e. open position), and turn clockwise to increase delivery pressure (i.e. closed position).


No; broken gauges will not affect the regulator's performance.
I have a two stage concoa. So since the knob is no longer controlling the psi is it safe to assume that the reg us busted? I mean currently it's still delivering co2 but when i turn the knob of the reg the bps on the bubble counters do not increase/decrease like they use to.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
It depends on what regulator you have. Milwaukee regulators have to have the adjusting knob on the regulator backed off completely - even removed - before opening the CO2 valve on the CO2 tank. How you shut it off isn't important, but how to turn it back on later, is very important to avoid ruining the outlet pressure gage on the regulator.
So the whole 'easy to blow low pressure gauge' is really only a Milwaukee issue? My Concoa and Airgas regulator does not need to go through the same procedure?
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