Help with DIY cerges reactor build... - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Question Help with DIY cerges reactor build...

post this is the DIY section but got no feedback so I thought I would ask for help there.

Hey guys so i decided to build a cerges reactor I think I understand the concept but not fully.
tank info:
soon to be 40br moss tank with a carpet of some sort and other med light plants hopping to go heavily planted form the start.


some questions:

1. will a 10" housing work? or should I go for the 20" for more dwell time. 20" feels just do big for my tank tho..
2. will 3/4 inlet out let work?
3. I will be running a inline heater should Co2 reactor be before or after the heater?
4. do I need bioballs or other media in the bottom of the reactor?
5. are ball values needed? what would be the benefit be ad back pressure? other the ability to service the reactor but would have to turn off the canister anyway??
6. where should the co2 be injected? inline via a brass nipple?
7. if yes for 6 do we need co2 pvc fitting or something?
8. the center piece of pvc down the middle is 1" from the bottom enough space?
9. any updated part list or tutorials on this? seams pretty easy but I want to do it right the 1st time.

thanks every one.

oh canister filter will be the sunsum 404Band tank size is a 40BR
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 07:05 PM
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1. will a 10" housing work? or should I go for the 20" for more dwell time. 20" feels just do big for my tank tho..
10" is enough
2. will 3/4 inlet out let work?
I used 3/4" elbow barbs
3. I will be running a inline heater should Co2 reactor be before or after the heater?
return pipe - heater - reactor
4. do I need bioballs or other media in the bottom of the reactor?
you can if you want but that's more things to clean
5. are ball values needed? what would be the benefit be ad back pressure? other the ability to service the reactor but would have to turn off the canister anyway??
I dont use ball valves
6. where should the co2 be injected? inline via a brass nipple?
correct
7. if yes for 6 do we need co2 pvc fitting or something?
I use brass
8. the center piece of pvc down the middle is 1" from the bottom enough space?
I only leave 1/2" or less the more space you leave the more likely bubbles will make it back to your display tank, this only applies if you run high bps like I do 6-8bps
9. any updated part list or tutorials on this? seams pretty easy but I want to do it right the 1st time.
it's easy just go to the hardware store and put fittings together



If you are too lazy to build one you can try to find a prebuild one. I made this video in 2012 I'm not sure if they still sell this product, I think I got it from fleabay.



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Last edited by coldmantis; 02-20-2018 at 07:23 PM. Reason: added video
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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@coldmantas perfect thanks. just what I was thinking but always better to ask ppl who have done it!

nice tank!! what is that ground cover? I like it.

question. would more dwell time make it any better? I found a really cool piece of glass tubing it would make a very cool "show rector" way, way over kill as it like 4' long but it was only $2 at a local habit for humanity so there was no way I could pass that up.

Last edited by underH20garden; 02-21-2018 at 05:50 AM. Reason: added more
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 06:12 AM
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more dwell time is always better but you won't know how well it will work for you until you try it. Everyone tank is different so you run slow bps then you will get 100% diffusion but depending how your tank reacts you might need to run higher and when you do you will get some bubbles in the tank. I was contemplating about making a 20" tall reactor but it will look ridiculous and it probably wont' fit in my stand. As for the ground cover I have no idea which you are referring to there was like 7 different species of plants I used as ground cover in that video.


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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OK I think I am going to stick to a 10" filter housing. do you guys feel a pressure release valve in needed?

the glass tube I got altho would look really cool but in the end I feel its way to fragile, so i'll make a light out of it

also can you post a pic form your brass co2 inlet ( the other side of your reactor ) please
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 03:40 PM
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pressure valve is like having AC in a car while vacationing in Jamaica in the summer. do you need it NO but is it nice to have Absolutely, I would strongly suggest getting one with a pressure valve. I dont' have any other pictures, I'll describe the pic since you can't tell from the angle. The brass fittings is on a 3/4" PVC threaded Tee the top side of the Tee is threaded 3/4" so I needed some brass bushings to convert the 3/4" to 1/2" then I used a 1/8" barb to 1/2" thread. If you go to the hardware store it will make sense, hopefully you can get all the fittings in one place. I'm in Canada I had to go to Rona for the PVC fittings and Home Depot for the brass fittings since Rona didn't have the size I needed.


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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ok I found a decent price on one with a pressure release valve its only $10 more just wanted to make sure it was worth spending the extra 10 bucks as that cuts into other goodies

I was thinking of injecting the Co2 inline via something similar cut the hose after the heater add a double ended bard drill the middle ad brass nipple this way would ad more dwell time even before getting to the reactor. would this work? wounder why I dont see ppl doing this? would the canister tubing hold up ? or is there a risk of it eating away?

cheers
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 04:23 PM
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When I first made this I was using an eheim 2217(full of eheim media) to drive the reactor and an fluval 406 as my main filter on a 40g breeder. I recall I first tried with in inline up atomizer before it enters the reactor (more diffusion more dwell time). I took it off since I was gettiing too many mist/bubbles in the tank, if you don't want bubbles in the tank at all stuff the bottom with sponges and it will prevent that but it will clog up so you will have to take it apart once a month and clean it (too much trouble for me, I rather have a few bubbles in the tank then clean the reactor once a month).


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the help!
i'll start with out the sponges and see if it needs them.
its nice to have options for bubble/mist control.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 04:19 AM
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Your in luck I just built another reactor a few hours ago, There was nothing wrong with the previous one but I wanted to add a 5g tank as an ATO reservoir instead of using my 2.5 container, so I wanted to build a reactor that can sit on top of the tank.

Here is the basic parts you need, I don't recommend this filter housing it sucks, the purge button is way to close to the inlet so when water goes into the canister and you press the button water just shoots out. My other one was a screw type button and that only purges trapped air.



The finish product in hind sight I should of measured it better, it's way longer then I wanted but since I glued it, too late. I also had to take it apart a few times to fix some leaks, I forgot that you should never use the white teflon tape for these pvc barbs use the thicker pink teflon tape for gas.





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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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@coldmantas perfect just what I was thinking as well, simple really. I have a RODI housing on order I got a heavy duty one so it should last a life time. for $10 extra it will come better built along with the pressure release valve. not sure I need either but why not I guess better do it right the 1st time!

now to get the rest of the build goodies...

oh BTW how do you like your sump? man i keep going back in forth on one over a canister. I have experience with sump very very little with canisters. guess I just need to make my choice and stick with it.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by underH20garden View Post
@coldmantas perfect just what I was thinking as well, simple really. I have a RODI housing on order I got a heavy duty one so it should last a life time. for $10 extra it will come better built along with the pressure release valve. not sure I need either but why not I guess better do it right the 1st time!

now to get the rest of the build goodies...

oh BTW how do you like your sump? man i keep going back in forth on one over a canister. I have experience with sump very very little with canisters. guess I just need to make my choice and stick with it.
Put it this way I always used Canister filter I don't even want to tell you how many Eheims I have. but in 2013 I started my first saltwater tank and I did a sump with that. After that I toss/sold all my Canister filters Eheim and Fluval and replaced them with sumps. I dont know how you are with proper maintenance but I always clean my canister filters every 2-3 months that includes taking absolutly everything apart and giving them a good scrub so they look like new again. That is a lot of work, with a sump you just stick your hands in and take out the media to clean siphon the crap that settled on the bottom thats it, no clips to remove, no tubes to remove. Easy and fast, and the added volume is great for the overall health of the tank, if you have extra plants or your fish bred in the tank you just move the fry to your fuge.


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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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yeah I have always been a sump guy as well had/have them on all my SW reefs over the years. I keep going back in forth sump vs canister...uggg I have an extra 10g and 40br to. this how project start as I was going to set up a seahorse tank but then need a little to much attention than I can give them at the moment. so planted FW tank it is ;P

with the canister I was trying to keep it simple less tanks to move when the time comes and it will for sure :/
I tell you everyday I keep going back in forth. in the end I just need to choose one and go with it.

I see you have pot scrubbers what else is in your sump?
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 07:56 PM
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The drain hits a layer of filter floss first with 2 large 7" ceramic bio cylinders to hold the floss down - 8" tall thick foam
2nd compartment bottom to top - seachem matrix, generic bios rings, ehem MECH, eheim SUBSTRATpro, purigen, 2 large 7" ceramic bio cyclinders, the blue eheim sponge
3rd comparment - pot scrubbers, had bio balls but took that out.
4th comparment - refugium, growing out some Monte Carlo and Brazillian micro Sword and some AR mini trimmings
5th comparment - return


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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldmantis View Post
The drain hits a layer of filter floss first with 2 large 7" ceramic bio cylinders to hold the floss down - 8" tall thick foam
2nd compartment bottom to top - seachem matrix, generic bios rings, ehem MECH, eheim SUBSTRATpro, purigen, 2 large 7" ceramic bio cyclinders, the blue eheim sponge
3rd comparment - pot scrubbers, had bio balls but took that out.
4th comparment - refugium, growing out some Monte Carlo and Brazillian micro Sword and some AR mini trimmings
5th comparment - return
Can I see a pic of your sump?
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