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whats in your canister filter?

4K views 30 replies 19 participants last post by  underH20garden 
#1 ·
lets talk whats in your canister filter and why?

I was all about to order some lava rock for the bio media but it was suggested the ceramic rigs have more surface area, is that true? I guess so but just want to confirm. so what is the "best" bio media.
looks like you can

also wondering about dry reef rock. I know the stuff is very porous and works great in my reefs but guessing it will mess up the PH or break down with the Co2?? just an idea...

also not sure I fully understand layering the canister filter. seams like alot of ppl use polyfill as the 1st layer but that seams like it would get clogged and rot faster =needed to be cleaned faster than the rest. but its on the bottom making it a PITA .

this it what I was thinking:
1st layer the water touches mechanical with pot scrubbers.
2nd and 3rd bio media Lava rock or ceramic rings
4th layer polyfill to polish the water.
 
#3 ·
Pot scrubbers wouldn't be good as mechanical as they would only catch very large particles. The goal is to stop as much particulate matter from getting to the other layers so they don't get clogged. I would do poret foam in the first section to catch the big stuff, poly in the second to polish and then biomedia/chemical media of your choice in the last two. Check out pumice for biomedia, basically the same thing a seachem matrix biomedia just a lot cheaper.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Poret is the good stuff but any 30-45ppi pad will work fine no need to go crazy, it's all automotive seat filler after all.

I use a three part course/medium/fine set of pads in my bottom basket where the water first comes in to block particulates. I have some poret pads but most of that goes into HMF's usually I use off brand reticulated pond pads of at least 30ppi because it's cheaper.

The rest of the baskets get biohome+ media I haven't found anything better in 20 years. It was engineered for Koi pond filters so make sure you order the mini version unless you only want one or two in the basket ;)

I do hedge my bet with a Purigen bag in the top basket with the Biohome, it can't hurt and does make the water clearer it's just the 100ml small version.
 
#14 ·
I have mine layered with ceramic rings (because they came with the filter) then sponge of three different densities, then poly which I cut myself new pieces when it wears out, and last the sintered glass bio-balls. But really I just like sponge. I think when my ceramic and bio-balls clog (if they ever do) I will probably just replace with sponge. It's so easy to just lift out and rinse.
 
#18 ·
pretty much what everyone here does.

1st stage: Course foam 1.5-2" thick sitting ontop of medium filter pad 1/4-.5" thick
2nd Stage: bio balls and purigen
3rd stage: poly fill for a polish

been setting it up like this a good bit before planted tanks were even a thought. Only difference is I had some carbon/ammonia balls mixed in with the bio balls.
 
#19 ·
I have a 306 running with Purigen in the initial chamber, and the rest of the chambers contain a mix of ceramic rings and lava rock. Didn't feel like spending $5+ for more rings, so I sifted my Eco-complete (lava rock) and put the larger bits in the filter.

P O R O U S
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#22 ·
Since I just cleaned my canister filter on Sunday I can confirm that there are baby snails and baby RCS in my canister filter...

Other items (bottom to top, water flow is same direction).
Course filter pad
Fine filter pad / polyfill
Bio-media
Purigen
 
#23 ·
I have a makeshift Zoomed 501 canister for my 10 Gallon planted tank. Naturally, I didn't keep any of the contents, and built my own.

I have a custom cut sponge layer>2 filter floss layers>way too much Purigen> then, on the outboard side of the canister, I have the other half of the canister full of Matrix (way more than needed).

Sponge= Mechanical and bio filter, really there to catch the plant stuff
Filter floss= Water polishing and more filtration for finer particles
Purigen in a bag= mooooore polishing!
Matrix= tonnnns of bio filtration! I chose matrix because of the surface area it provides.

Although I don't suggest this for a 10G planted tank as it is WAY overkill, but I can promise your tank will look like it's filled with air! lol
 
#29 ·
I don't have a canister filter but after many decades in the hobby I'm convinced that sponge material is the best mechanical AND bio-media platform there is. Efficient, inexpensive, easily cleaned, and lasts forever and a day. I have two AC70 HOB filters on my 60g filled with sponge material - making them HOB sponge filters. I do run a Marineland Magnum Internal Polishing Filter with the micron filter cartridge charged with diatomaceous earth for several hours each week following the partial water changes resulting in super crystal clarity.

For the basement turtle pond I have a 4 stage DIY bucket trickle filter. Sponge->Filter Pads->Polyester Fiber->Pot Scrubbies->Matrix/DeNitrate. (I used the Matrix/DeNitrate because I had it lying around after giving up on it for the aquarium. I can't say if it does anything to reduce nitrates, but the filter works great at keeping the water clean [and turtles can be messy!])
 
#30 ·
Ceramic rings, bio balls (were free) and filter floss. My water is very clear, no need for carbon (it doesnt last long and will leach out whatever it absorbs in a couple weeks anyway.) Purigen is good stuff, I used it for tannin control in a different set up but found little need to use it aside from that. I like tannins these days anyway. A strong bacteria colony is the best filter, filter floss or poly pad can catch all debris.
 

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