Some Plant and light algae issues. Need suggestions. - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Some Plant and light algae issues. Need suggestions.

Some Plant and light algae issues. Need suggestions.
If I could get some help, I would really appreciate it.

Info,

-46 Bowfront
-Co2 is GLA pressure with bubble counter (4bps) into large inline reactor (2 1/2in by 16in long)
-Drop checker reads lime green
-Digital 300 watt heater set to 76.5 and my regular thermometer reads the same.
-filters, 2217 and a 2215 with no carbon and I just cleaned them both 3 weeks apart from one another
-Full EI dosing
-Lighting, T-5 NO 1.8 watts, I cut the light down to .91 for a week and it made only a small difference for the better.

Plants,

Ludwigia Glandulosa
Ludwigia Repens
Crypts, green and brown
Java Moss
Java Fern

The plants are all growing, however the Glandulosaís leaves have recently started twisting at the tips, the Java Moss has a strange looking very short white hair algae growing on it and Iím getting some (what looks like) brown algae on all the lower leaves of everything and on the glass. Every time I do a water change the water gets slightly cloudy for about 4 hours or so and then clears. I have surface scum that comes back after I clear it in just a few hours, otherwise the water is pretty clean and clear.

Picture of surface scum in bottle that I siphoned it off the surface with; I clear it every day when I dose. If you look at the water in the tank you can see itís quite clear.



Tank,

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 03:01 AM
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What's your fert routine?


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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What's your fert routine?
EI,

mon CSM+B
tues PO4, No3
wed CSM+B
thurs PO4, NO3
fri CSM+B
sat PO4, NO3
sun water change
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 04:59 PM
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What lighting do you have? "1.8 watts", as you posted, doesn't tell me much.

Hoppy
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
What lighting do you have? "1.8 watts", as you posted, doesn't tell me much.
If it is a T5NO fixture he probably has 4, 21watt, 36inch bulbs. (just a guess, that would make about 1.8wpg)

Plantman, what Hoppy probably wants to know is the bulb spectrum, height off tank, things like that to better diagnose your problem.

In terms of surface scum: If you have canister filters and little or no real surface aggitation this is not uncommon in my experience. I just dip a cup in and skim the surface once every day or two. If it really bothers you, you can probably get rid of it for good by pointing that powerhead up instead of down. There is a tradeoff though here, more surface aggitation=more gas exchange= release of some of that C02.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dubvstudent View Post
If it is a T5NO fixture he probably has 4, 21watt, 36inch bulbs. (just a guess, that would make about 1.8wpg)

Plantman, what Hoppy probably wants to know is the bulb spectrum, height off tank, things like that to better diagnose your problem.
Yes this is exactly what I have they sit 2 inches from the surface and are on for 8 hours with a timer.

Spectrum is 3) 7,600K and 1) 10,000K

I have turned up the Co2 a bit higher and I do a small 12 liter water change every time I dose firts. I do the water change with a orange juice jug that I syphon of the surface with. I am able to completely remove the scum 5 times a week but right now it comes back every day.

Thanks guys.

I believe I may have a fair amount of old plant roots sitting in the substrate rotting from when I did the rescape. could this be the cause of the issues. Anubias Nana and Crypt roots that I did not completely remove.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 12:42 AM
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You almost certainly have high light intensity. The algae and plant leaf abnormalities suggest to me that you don't have enough CO2 in the water. With high light you need to slowly increase the bubble rate, a little bit each day, while observing the fish for distress, indicated by them clustering at the top of the tank, usually in the corner where the water goes back to the filter, or laying on the bottom, or with badly faded colors. If you get those symptoms, you can back off the bubble rate to that which didn't result in those symptoms. This should be done with some surface water rippling, which helps get oxygen into the water, and helps the fish to live with higher CO2. You also need very good water circulation in the tank, so CO2 rich water can get to all plants.

It's a lot easier to just reduce the light intensity.

Hoppy
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 06:07 AM
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Lack of co2 for sure. You didn't mention what type of fluid you had in the drop checker. If you used tank water that some suggest in the instructions you can just ignore any color that it is. If you have a 4 dkh solution with brometyl blue ph reagent in it and it is placed in the area where the least flow is (which assures that if you have proper co2 levels in this spot than it would be safe to assume areas with a higher flow of co2 enriched water would be even higher in concentration and thus your tank would have good levels throughout) and your getting a yellow color that would almost rule out the co2 issue. I suspect though that the former is the case.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Lack of co2 for sure. You didn't mention what type of fluid you had in the drop checker. If you used tank water that some suggest in the instructions you can just ignore any color that it is. If you have a 4 dkh solution with brometyl blue ph reagent in it and it is placed in the area where the least flow is (which assures that if you have proper co2 levels in this spot than it would be safe to assume areas with a higher flow of co2 enriched water would be even higher in concentration and thus your tank would have good levels throughout) and your getting a yellow color that would almost rule out the co2 issue. I suspect though that the former is the case.

It is set up with a 4.5dkh solution in order to be sure that I have high enough Co2 levels. I have also just changed my lighting to a twin High output T-5 system and removed the other lights. The new bulbs are 2 39watt HOs putting the tank at 1.7watts of T-5 HO that sits on legs a few inches farther away from the surface then the old set up was and I have turned up the Co2 just a pinch more.

So, now I have a bit more Co2, slightly less light that is sitting a bit higher off the tank.

New lighting is a single 36" Aquaticlife fixture (two 39 watt bulbs). I've also bought a bag or Flourite and will be adding it slowly over the next week or so all around the plant bases



Thanks again for all the advice, let’s see what happens.

Shawn
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