Cycling with ADA Aquasoil Help - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Question Cycling with ADA Aquasoil Help

Hello i'm currently in the process of setting up my first planted aquarium. I have the newer Fluval Spec V.

When I usually cycle aquariums I use "The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling" from aquariumadvice.com

I know Aquasoil is high in ammonia. I checked my ammonia and i'm currently at 2ppm. The way i'm used to cycling my tanks I would maintain 4ppm.


So my question is, Should I add ammonia to the aquarium to get it to 4ppm?

Currently the tank is cycling with plants. Dwarf Sag, Anacharis, and Staurogyne Repens.

I've read on other post when cycling with aquasoil you're suppose to do daily water changes. This doesn't sound right to me.

Thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017, 03:12 AM
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Sometimes aquasoil leeches a ton of ammonia and sometimes it doesn't. For me it leeched well over 5 ppm even with 50% water changes for 3 days so I had to wait a while. If it's at 2 ppm I wouldn't add any ammonia and just let it cycle completely unless you're planning on heavily stocking it.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017, 03:14 AM
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2pmm is plenty.


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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 06:12 AM
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Be sure to add some KH or you'll never cycle

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 07:12 PM
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Be sure to add some KH or you'll never cycle

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What in the world?
That's an odd statement.


Anyway regarding aquasoil, it has more ammonia than you'll need, frequent water changes can help speed things up.
Ammonia over 3 or some say over 5 kills nitrifying bacteria so make sure you do enough water changes to keep it below that.
I aim for about 1.5 usually.

Another benefit of the water changes is the bacteria prefer a higher pH and aquasoil will drive it very low at first.
If you have a heater set it to low 80s for another speed boost.

Put as many plants as you can in the tank right away, they'll grow like crazy.

I only test ammonia weekly, as I know my 3-4x a week water changes will keep the ammonia levels down, but about 8-10 days in I start testing for nitrite.
If I'm seeing nitrite levels it's almost over, just keep testing every so often until you see that 0 nitrite reading and your done.
(If nitrite is zero your ammonia will definitely be zero as well.


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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinylmation View Post
...I've read on other post when cycling with aquasoil you're suppose to do daily water changes. This doesn't sound right to me.

Thanks for the help.
That's exactly what your suppose to do, for the 1st week anyway. This is according to ADA themselves. Then you move down to every other day and eventually once a week. Of you there's not alot you HAVE to do, but this is ADA's way of being preventive. Doing large water changes will remove alot of the ammonia that will probably end up causing algae slightly down the road.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 06:04 PM
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I have also been looking this up and there are huge amounts of conflicting information. I do not entirely understand all the science behind it, but I have seen a lot of people recommending to NOT do water changes with aquasoil because, supposedly, this just extends the process by removing the chemicals/bacteria that are stimulating the process. Evidently, everyone here has said to do as many water changes as possible, so could someone explain why this view is incorrect for me?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hexagonalbolts View Post
I have also been looking this up and there are huge amounts of conflicting information. I do not entirely understand all the science behind it, but I have seen a lot of people recommending to NOT do water changes with aquasoil because, supposedly, this just extends the process by removing the chemicals/bacteria that are stimulating the process. Evidently, everyone here has said to do as many water changes as possible, so could someone explain why this view is incorrect for me?
Why aren't you going by what the makers of Aquasoil say?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Hexagonalbolts View Post
I have also been looking this up and there are huge amounts of conflicting information. I do not entirely understand all the science behind it, but I have seen a lot of people recommending to NOT do water changes with aquasoil because, supposedly, this just extends the process by removing the chemicals/bacteria that are stimulating the process. Evidently, everyone here has said to do as many water changes as possible, so could someone explain why this view is incorrect for me?
If we and the manufacturer recommend to do water changes what's the conflict?

Maybe you missed my post, it's like 3 posts up from here, I explained the reasons why you do the water changes.

pH, concentration of ammonia, and as mentioned by another, algae reduction.

Low pH crashes the bacteria, as does too much ammonia.
Aquasoil will leach a good bit more ammonia per day than you're fish ever will so by allowing the levels to climb unchecked you're asking too much of the nitrifying bacteria.
You'll be seeing ammonia for a very very long time, and then nitrite for a very long time, assuming the levels don't go above the deadly range.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-19-2017, 09:36 PM
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Why aren't you going by what the makers of Aquasoil say?
Well, the internet is the source of all truth.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 02:01 PM
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Well, the internet is the source of all truth.
Oh yes, of course.

In a new setup whether your using AS or not the water changes are a no-brainer. There is no-biofilter, there is no major uptake. The water changes simply remove any organics that a mature bio-filter would probably remove. In an AS tank with a ton of ammonia that can't be processed by a non-existent bio-filter the benefit of heavy water changes is obvious to me.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Question ???

Update

So i'm having an issue with my water parameters. My tap water is as follow
pH 8.4 (Drops to 6.0 because of ADA AquaSoil)
Ammonia 0.50 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 0 ppm

Is the Ammonia at 0.50 ppm going to be an issue for me?

My Ammonia is always at 2.0 ppm, i believe this is a combination of my tap water and AquaSoil. I've done water changes but the Ammonia stays the same.

I'm converting Ammonia to Nitrite then to Nitrate my only issue is my Ammonia is at a constant 2.0 ppm.

Am i going to have to start doing water changes with store bought Spring Water?
Is my tank Cycled?

Also I Cycled the Tank with Aquarium plants and most of them melted and are gone. Wasted $50 on plants. I read about it and this is normal. The only plant that survived (some) were Dwarf Sag.

Will these plants eventually come back to life even though they look dead?
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 12:01 AM
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It sounds to me like you're just not done cycling. It looks to me like you aren't planted heavy enough either. You can toss cheap stem plants in there and remove them later to help establish a balance. I wouldn't think your tap water would be an issue, at least not for the plants I used ada soil and changed water based when my kh got low regardless of how long between changes. This was every other day at first, for weeks. I didn't experience melting and planted heavy right out of the gate. The grass seems like it can turn around the other pics look like gonners to me.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 07:04 PM
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Did you add any bacteria, as in TSS+ or Seachem Stability when you initially set up your tank? I know when I do a fishless cycle I'll add TTS+ and janitorial grade ammonia to get it up to 1.0 and then let it work it's magic. Then once it can bring the Ammonia to 0 I'll bring it to 1.0 again to make sure it lowers it back to 0 in 24 hrs, but that's only if you are using TSS+ or some other type of bacteria product. Seems like with the ADA soil you don't have to add the ammonia cause it seems leach enough. Like @Cadima said your not done cycling.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2018, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chlorophile View Post
What in the world?
That's an odd statement.
Not really:

Quote:
During nitrification, 7.14 mg of alkalinity as CaCO3[censored]is destroyed for every milligram of ammonium ions oxidized. Lack of carbonate alkalinity will stop nitrification. In addition, nitrification is pH-sensitive and rates of nitrification will decline significantly at pH values below 6.8. Therefore, it is important to maintain an adequate alkalinity in the aeration tank to provide pH stability and also to provide inorganic carbon for nitrifiers.[censored]
Source: http://www.hwea.org/how-alkalinity-a...nitrification/

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