Acclimating by TDS ? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Acclimating by TDS ?

Following a disappointment when introducing new stock into my tank where the parameters were bang on and I used the drip method, I`ve decided to try matching the LFS TDS as close as possible to my tank, still using the drip method but continuing until both TDS are an approximate match.

My supply TDS is usually around 100 - 120 and my tank TDS is between 150 - 180 depending on how soon after a wc I take a measurement. From what I`ve read most problems arise when introducing stock from higher TDS to a lower TDS environment, if there is going to be a problem with osmoregulation.

Does this sound doable and does anyone have any tips or advice ?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 02:30 PM
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Ask your local fish shop how they make up their water. TDS can be made up of any disolved solids e.g. fertiliser/nitrates even stuff like dechlorinator or stress coat adds to it. So you can match TDS and still have a big difference in GH/KH/PH.

My local tap is about TDS 400, but when I buy fish their bag water is closer to TDS 800! I would guess that's some additives like stress coat, plus any ammonia that's built up in the bag etc. I mix my tank water from RO, so my tank runs about 200.

I wouldn't mix my tank up to 800, but I have been considering using tap in my quarantine so it's closer to what I imagine the LFS water is based on.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 02:39 PM
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What units are you measuring you TDS in? Generally, values can be way off from one another if you are measuring in ppm vs S. ppm is calibrated to a single salt solution, far from what our aquarium water is. Is it useful? Sure, it's a quick measurement of the general dissolved solids in the tank water, but if you think the value is read in ppm but its really read in S, you could be way off.

See here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...tds-meter.html

Very good read ^^
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tamsin View Post
Ask your local fish shop how they make up their water. TDS can be made up of any disolved solids e.g. fertiliser/nitrates even stuff like dechlorinator or stress coat adds to it. So you can match TDS and still have a big difference in GH/KH/PH.

My local tap is about TDS 400, but when I buy fish their bag water is closer to TDS 800! I would guess that's some additives like stress coat, plus any ammonia that's built up in the bag etc. I mix my tank water from RO, so my tank runs about 200.

I wouldn't mix my tank up to 800, but I have been considering using tap in my quarantine so it's closer to what I imagine the LFS water is based on.
My LFS is only a few miles from me and is on the same water supply. I hear what you`re saying about all the different elements that make up TDS, but I`m not considering increasing my tank TDS, rather using more acclimating water till the LFS bag water approximates my tank. My thinking is that it will reduce osmotic stress on the new stock
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 02:57 PM
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I'm going out on a limb here and will ask: What was your disappointing scenario when adding new stock?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Quagulator View Post
What units are you measuring you TDS in? Generally, values can be way off from one another if you are measuring in ppm vs S. ppm is calibrated to a single salt solution, far from what our aquarium water is. Is it useful? Sure, it's a quick measurement of the general dissolved solids in the tank water, but if you think the value is read in ppm but its really read in S, you could be way off.

See here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...tds-meter.html

Very good read ^^
My meter is a TDS 3 with temperature correction and it measures in ppm.

Is the fact that it is calibrated to a single salt solution like saying that it will be inaccurate for any other dissolved substances other than that salt ?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 03:17 PM
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Sorry, the link I posted did not work.

try here:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...tds-meter.html
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going out on a limb here and will ask: What was your disappointing scenario when adding new stock?
I bought some shrimp and 2 died within 12 hours. All parameters and temp were fine, all other inhabitants also fine so through a process of elimination I came up with osmoregulation, we shall see when I try my next introduction.

Even though I`ve kept fish for 30 years, I`ve never kept shrimp (or plants) before so it all adds to the experience.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vince01 View Post
I bought some shrimp and 2 died within 12 hours. All parameters and temp were fine, all other inhabitants also fine so through a process of elimination I came up with osmoregulation, we shall see when I try my next introduction.

Even though I`ve kept fish for 30 years, I`ve never kept shrimp (or plants) before so it all adds to the experience.
In my experience that is completely normal for shrimp .... They just don't do good with change at all. I always buy more anticipating deaths. That's the beauty of shrimp, they can multiply fast to replenish the lost ones. I think you may be over thinking the acclimation of the shrimp.

What other inhabitants do you have with them? possible foul play could cause shrimp deaths. Also, what color were the carcass'? What type of shrimp?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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In my experience that is completely normal for shrimp .... They just don't do good with change at all. I always buy more anticipating deaths. That's the beauty of shrimp, they can multiply fast to replenish the lost ones. I think you may be over thinking the acclimation of the shrimp.

What other inhabitants do you have with them? possible foul play could cause shrimp deaths. Also, what color were the carcass'? What type of shrimp?
The shrimp were in with bororas brigittae and they looked about normal colour, maybe a bit blanched, they were cherry shrimp.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 04:02 PM
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The shrimp were in with bororas brigittae and they looked about normal colour, maybe a bit blanched, they were cherry shrimp.
I keep orange neos with my bororas brigittae, I was shipped 10, in good weather, 1 day shipping, 3 dead on arrival, 4 more dead within 2 days, within 2 months I had 50+ in a 5.5 gal Shrimp just don't do well with change period.

I added CO2 to that tank with about 25 of the orange neos, and within 2 weeks I was down to 1 female, 7 males, and 3 juveniles. But the fish looked absolutely perfect, plants looked stunning.

I had blue neos in a 20 long, 150 or so, added CO2 and I never seen babies again. I don't think your water or acclimating process is what killed those 2, I think its just the luck of the draw/survival of the fittest.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 04:21 PM
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I sell shrimp by mail and the feedback from customers I get is that random deaths can be expected with adult shrimp. Juvenile shrimp come through with 100% survival. And by juvenile I mean young enough that you cannot sex them.

I laugh when ppl ask to buy berried shrimp. Yeah... lets take a berried female and do a sudden change in GH... molt anyone?

Don't ask for advice. Ask for information, gather lots of information from different reliable sources. Then use the information to make your own advice.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince01 View Post
My LFS is only a few miles from me and is on the same water supply. I hear what you`re saying about all the different elements that make up TDS, but I`m not considering increasing my tank TDS, rather using more acclimating water till the LFS bag water approximates my tank. My thinking is that it will reduce osmotic stress on the new stock
Ahh, sorry, I thought you meant adjusting the tank TDS to the LFS before bringing them home. Yes, with drip you should end up with matching water - that's my gauge for when it's done. Depending how much LFS water you start with how big the container you are dripping into is, you might need to take some water out half way through to actually get the match.

Have you checked the LFS water TDS - if you are on the same water it may not be that different anyway.
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