New tank problem needed help :'( - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Good morning guys,
I am brand new to the forum and i recently (a week and half ago) set up a new 120G tank with some plant (pear weed) and xmass most with some dragon stone and bonsai tree bog.

The water is beeing milky cloudy for over a week and half and i spot a lot of the puffy white stuff on my tree bog and xmas moss and on my pear weed too. Currently the tank is fishless.

I understand that this is the water is going throug a cycle but are those puffy white stuff are algea or is it bacteria bloom? And how long am i expecting the water to be cloudy for?

My water is tap and condition with prime
I do dose excel and advance
My filter is eheim 2217
With eheim 350 skimmer
Using with eheim media , matrix and purigen
DIY co2 inject (co2 inject indicator lime green)
7-23w CFL 6500k
10h/days light time
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 03:38 PM
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i think your light period is too high for that little amount of plants. start lower maybe about 3-4hours a day. until your tank gets thick and lush with plants, you can crank it up to 10. otherwise you are growing bacteria and algae for now.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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and one more thing, does excel kill xmass moss?
Will try to lower the light period. As suggest and will do another water change upcoming weekend.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 06:50 PM
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Water parameters? Specifically interested in nitrate levels.
Substrate?

Looks like you have a tank full of nutrients, light, and CO2, but very little plant life to benefit from it all. Know who else likes that stuff? Algae and bacteria! Eventually the bloom will starve, but you can speed it up by throwing in some fast growing stems (hornwort is great) and floating plants. All of this is assuming your tank is done cycling and contains an abundance of nitrates.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Will be doing some water test tonight as soon as I get home. And willlet you know the parameter

So here are my water test result
PH 7
Ammonia seem to be between 0-0.25 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I am not sure what is the next step? To get this thing clear up and away from those puffy thing
Will lower the lighting time to around 4 hrs/day and see if it help
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Last edited by Darkblade48; 10-04-2017 at 12:57 PM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 10:20 PM
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I always measure ammonia at .25 and freaked out until I read that there is a problem with the API test kit if you use Prime as a De-chlorinator.

Do you use Prime?
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank158 View Post
I always measure ammonia at .25 and freaked out until I read that there is a problem with the API test kit if you use Prime as a De-chlorinator.
bit o/t.. Really? That explains a lot .if true.. Always had .25-ish w/ the API. API states test is practically infallable.. Blamed dirty fingers/test tube ect if you get false positives

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
bit o/t.. Really? That explains a lot .if true.. Always had .25-ish w/ the API. API states test is practically infallable.. Blamed dirty fingers/test tube ect if you get false positives
I don't know really, maybe a I misspoke but to be honest I'm an accountant not a chemist so don't really understand all the technical stuff I read. All I know is that I tested my tank for ammonia and registered a small amount and freaked. It is well planted 200L been running for years....have a big school of Cardinal tetras for years, fish healthy, do water changes and all that so could not believe my eyes. Google and read some stuff about false positives.

Anyway back to the thread...sorry.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Yes i do use prime for water conditioner, but that couldnt be the cause of this, i am assumed.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank158 View Post
I don't know really, maybe a I misspoke but to be honest I'm an accountant not a chemist so don't really understand all the technical stuff I read. All I know is that I tested my tank for ammonia and registered a small amount and freaked. It is well planted 200L been running for years....have a big school of Cardinal tetras for years, fish healthy, do water changes and all that so could not believe my eyes. Google and read some stuff about false positives.

Anyway back to the thread...sorry.
this is true. something about the way the reagents worked.. there is a type of test that doesn't get tricked, but I think its more costly and harder to get

Seachem Prime and false positives - Seachem Support Forums


used to happen even back in the day with amquel and ammo lock too. I used to test the tap water and not get any readings, redo test with a drop of amquel to the tube, and instantly get an ammonia reading.


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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 10:55 AM
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Your plants are doing poorly because your nitrates are too low. Nitrates should never be zero in a planted tank. You need some plant food in there!

What is your substrate? It looks like there is some dirt in there?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I was recommended by a local store to use black soil and play sand. what should my nitrates be at?

Bump: what else do I need for the plant to be healthy? phosphorus ?potassium?
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 01:15 PM
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I would start over. This is far more than some parameters being a little out of range.

You probably released alot of matter into the water column from the soil. Also I don't know what kind of setup you have for your DIY co2, but I'd like to know how your getting sufficient water column co2 on 120g.

I would start over and read up more about what people do who have successful setups.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 01:43 PM
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I agree with @houseofcards your tank is fishless so best to tear it down. All you will be out is the cost of plants, playsand and soil.

Do research here and elsewhere and decide what kind of planted tank you want.....dirt with substrate cap (play soil is generally not recommended but pool filter sand is) use a commercial nutrient rich substrate.....use a substrate high in cec.....or just use an inert substrate. Whatever you decide will affect the way you dose your water column.

The key to all this is the lights you are using.....7-23w CFL 6500k Maybe someone here who is "light experienced" will help you and guide you with that.

Once you get a good plan of action going and get things set up pack the entire aquarium with as much fast growing plants as you can.....grow it and get your tank in balance then from there you can replace plants with other more slow growing. That's the best advice I can give.



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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 05:57 PM
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Totally agree about starting over. Look up steps for proper dirt tank setup. Dirt is a great way to go, but you have to make sure you cap the dirt well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by houseofcards View Post
You probably released alot of matter into the water column from the soil. Also I don't know what kind of setup you have for your DIY co2, but I'd like to know how your getting sufficient water column co2 on 120g.

I was thinking this, but I wasn't sure before if OP had dirt or not and I'm confused about the parameter readings. How are nitrates and ammonia so low? Is there something else in suspended dirt particles that leads to bacteria blooms? Or has the bloom already consumed the free nitrogen? Not related to OP's problem, just curious if you have any theories.
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