Hello and welcome to The Community.
I'll give my opinion for some of the questions you are asking but remember there is no one way to succeed with an aquarium.
The layout of your substrate sounds fine. Clay is an awesome way to get more iron to your plants roots which definitely helps, but plenty of people have success planting into straight pool filter sand just supplementing some root tabs. You can always buy some root tabs from seachem, API, or use osmocote, and add them whenever you want. Just take a pair of tongs and push them through into the dirt. You still might even be able to add some clay in this fashion.
Wet and drying it is also optional in my opinion. I rarely do this. To my understanding the main reason to do this is to help reduce initial water clouding. But you can just gently fill the tank and drain it several times to achieve the same effect. I recommend putting a plate underneath where you are filling from to help reduce agitating your gravel cap.
As for your cycling question... There are two main ways to cycle: Fishless cycling, and cycling with fish. Fishless cycling takes a bit more patience because you are essentailly waiting to add fish until you see the cycle is complete. What does this mean? It means you are waiting for the bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite to establish, and also the bacteria which convert nitrite to nitrate. The cycle is complete when ammonia and nitrite levels hit 0 (or very very very close) and your nitrate levels rise. Nitrate is removed by water changes and the plants consuming it. In a fishless cycle you must add some form of ammonia yourself, either in the form of fish flake or using regular industrial ammonia (people dose between 1-4ppm generally). When people cycle with fish they usually get some really hardy fish that can tolerate the less than ideal conditions for the first few weeks, but you need to be very careful and do lots of water changes if you choose to go this route or your fish will most likely perish if the ammonia gets too high. In either case I would argue the best ways to speed up the cycle is raising the temperature into the low 80's (if you have no fish) to speed up growth and establishment of the bacteria. Also seeding bacteria into the tank with a product like seachem stability may also help (and in my expierience has). Anyway you can look up more on cycling as there are 10,000 guides on it.
Lastly your lighting question. two 75W bulbs over a 10gallon seems like a lot to me. I'm not sure what kind of PAR this will yield to you but If I am not mistaken this will put you into the high light range. While there is nothing inherently wrong with very high light, it can lead to very bad algae problems and may necessitate CO2 injection and adding ferts if you want to keep your plants healthy. For plants, light is what controls how fast their metabolism is essentially. If you drive them hard and there is no CO2 present they will stunt as light and CO2 work hand in hand. If there is adequate CO2 and light, they will also consume nutrients from the water faster. If you don't supplement with fertilizers, you will most likely run into nutrient deficiencies in the long run... plant yellowing, dying, etc. So I guess what I am saying is more light isn't always better. Its all a balancing act between light, co2, and fertilizers. Lower light means less work and lower maintenance. If you do run really high light make sure you keep your photoperiod between 8-10 hours or you almost definitely will just grow algae which I am sure you don't want.
One last thing. If you aren't going to run an airstone make sure you have something causing some surface agitation. If the surface of the water isn't broken slightly (rippling) gas exchange is severely inhibited. This will starve your fish of oxygen and cause them to gasp if left unchecked. The rate at which this happens depends how heavily it is stocked.
I hope I answered all of your questions, sorry if I got into too much detail.