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Colorado

1K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  clownplanted 
#1 ·
60x30x35cm GlasGarten Aquarium

Light
*Twinstar RGB LED 60cm 32w 2,300 Lumen

Filter
*Eheim Classic 250/2213 440L/H
*ADA Bio Rio 2L
*Seachem Purigen 250ml
*ROWA Phos- PO4 & SiO2 Absorber 50g

5lbs Pressurized CO2- 3-5 bps

Substrate
*ADA Power Sand Special
*ADA Tourmaline BC
*ADA Amazonia Light
*ADA Colorado Sand
*Dragon Stone

Fertilizer
*Aqua Rebell Mikro Basic EISEN 1ml per day
*Aqua Rebell Makro Estimative Index 7ml per day

Water Change- 20L every three days
*Tap water with ADA Chlor-off

Plants
*Vesicularia ferriei "Weeping moss"
*Monosolenium tenerum Pellia
*Eleocharis sp `mini´DHG
*Rotala indica "Bonsai"
Rotala wallichii- Just added

Please give advise, whould you Change anything with the plants?
 

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#8 ·
Your tank is nearly perfect. I wouldn't stress about it too much... If anything it lacks depth in the photos, but I'm not a good enough scaper to tell you how to achieve that. Maybe some vals in the back rather than the white background?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Hi JonRon,

First of all Beautiful tank. You did a really good job with the scape and placement. As far as the scape goes I think it is absolutely perfect. Now for the critique. As you pointed out to me This is going to be or already is housed with The CRS is that correct? Is there anything else going in there? I would highly advise against adding any other livestock it if its going to have CRS in it. The reason being is the specific conditions which they require. Also with those ferts are you sure you are suppose to dose each macro and micro everyday? That seems like an awfully alot of ferts and usually you are not suppose to dose both unless doing PPS-Pro which you are not as you are doing EI. I would double check the dosing instructions as I cannot really understand it as they are in German when I looked up online. Now here is the very important stuff.

1. CRS require very stable conditions. You sent me that your PH is 6.8, GH 8, KH 5. Your PH is good but is that before or after co2 is on? Typically you need a PH of 7 or less(degassed). Also it is highly advisable to not run full co2 like 30ppm. Typically CRS do not breed when this much co2 is in the water as it greatly depletes the o2 level. Not saying the CRS will not be healthy with 30ppm co2 but they just do not like to breed/reproduce with a lot of co2. I would advise you to run like 10-15ppm of co2. This is what I do in my CRS tank. Also with your GH 8 and KH 5 this puts your TDS(without anything else added like ferts, etc) at about 180. You typically want your CRS water tds to be no more than 200. Now you mentioned to me that your tds when checked was 520? That is not good at all for the conditions of the CRS. This most likely is due to the build up of ferts with your dosing schedule. You need to do a couple things here to fix this.
a. Get yourself a TDS meter. They are really cheap, like $10-$15 on amazon. I sent you a link to one I got and like from Amazon. You want to then take a tap water TDS test. Then once your TDS hits +100 you want to do a WC. Now one thing to keep in mind CRS do not like large water changes. This is bad for CRS. you typically want to do like 10% at most. This is why its advisable to not run high co2 and dose lots of ferts because you will add +100 tds very fast if doing this and require you to do a lot of water changes. So you need to first get your TDS down to less than 200. Also it seems that your KH is a bit high as lowering this will help lower your TDS which is a good thing. So you should strongly consider to use like half RO/Half TAP and then re-mineralize using Salty Shrimp GH+ shooting for a GH of 6 and KH of 2 would be good.
b. Reduce your fert dosing as I feel this is what got your TDS up to an EXTREMELY high level. a TDS of 520 is very bad and needs to be addressed. I feel your CRS will not live long in these conditions. You really need to check and reduce your Fert dosing. If your tds is building up that high they obviously are not being consumed fully and this is bad to keep adding to the water and raising the tds to the level it is at.
C. Your temperature is good but you want to ensure it does not get above 75. CRS like the temps typically between 70-75F.

CRS need specific conditions to thrive in, they can "survive" in less optimal conditions but will not be comfortable and therefore not reproduce if this is the case and will typically not live as long.
 
#12 ·
Thank you for the advice I am going to remove the PO4 and SiO2 remover from my filter, dose 1ml of Eisen a day, and try 2ml of EI instead of 7ml. See how that works out if it doesnt work as planned I may start over.
TDS meter is ordered should be here next week. Now for example, if tap water reads say 200 TDS I do not want my Aquarium water to go over 300, if so do a wc? Or, is it 200 flat, tap water and all?
I always check my Parameters, and do maintenance right when Lights come on, and CO2 turns on one hour before lights.

Bump: this link should be in English it is for me, I can not read german either.
http://www.aqua-rebell.com/makro-basic/makro-basic-estimative-index.html
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thank you for the advice I am going to remove the PO4 and SiO2 remover from my filter, dose 1ml of Eisen a day, and try 2ml of EI instead of 7ml. See how that works out if it doesnt work as planned I may start over.
TDS meter is ordered should be here next week. Now for example, if tap water reads say 200 TDS I do not want my Aquarium water to go over 300, if so do a wc? Or, is it 200 flat, tap water and all?
I always check my Parameters, and do maintenance right when Lights come on, and CO2 turns on one hour before lights.

Bump: this link should be in English it is for me, I can not read german either.
Makro Basic - Estimative Index - Aqua Rebell
If your tap water is 200 and yes you typically do not want it to hit 300 as this indicates a big build up of ferts and its time for a WC. Now what is different here is since you have CRS they do not like What EI typically recommends of a large 50% water change each week, its HIGHLY advisable to not do that large of wc with CRS. You want to aim to do less water changes and a much less percent with CRS, like 10% at a time. This is why its so much more critical to watch your dosing. And like I stated CRS do not like a tds larger than 200 which is why its so critical to bring your KH down which will in turn bring your tap tds lower. So with this being the case lets say you have a standard 120tds if you hit 200 which would be +80 then you want to do a 10% wc and not more often than once a week so ensuring your levels stay low is key

Also another thing I forgot to mention is CRS do not like high Nitrates/Phosphates. Typically with normal stock you can get away with having say 40ppm of Nitrates and 4ppm Phosphates, in fact I have this level quite often in my heavily planted high co2 60 gallon tank(no crs in this one). You do not want that level at all with CRS. You typically want it 5-10ppm of Nitrates with 20 being too high and doing a wc if it gets to 15-20ppm. Again this is another reason why high dosing and high co2 is not advisable due to these levels rising pretty easily doing normal EI dosing and is normally fine or well not as bad with lots of plants and high co2 as the plants will consume more anyway. But with 10-15ppm co2 which is HIGHLY advisable to not go above that if you have CRS then the consumption will be less and those levels can rise quite fast with normal EI dosing which is why you want to dose less than EI.

So what I do is dose HALF EI levels 4 times per week(2xMacros, 2xMicros) instead of the FULL EI 6 days a week at full level. If you are stuck on wanting to run 30ppm co2 and have other not so CRS friendly stock in the tank I would really advise you setup a dedicated tank for the CRS where you can meet their needs much easier to accommodate them. I hope it doesn't seem like I am just trying to give you bad news just want you to realize what you are getting into with having CRS and if you want them to thrive what is required for that to happen.

I also think you do not need and should not dose micros and macros everyday. All other ferts I know of that go by the EI dose macros and micros every OTHER day on alternating days. I wonder if that is a typo on their end because that it just too much to be adding everyday.
 
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