Proposed 10g Setup - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Question Proposed 10g Setup

Item list updated 8/19/10 @ 2:45pm EST

I've been working on getting together everything that I think I need for my first planted aquarium. The following is what I'm planning on purchasing for this setup. Mind you, I have a 29g tank that I've had setup for several years (it won't becoming to college though), so I already have water paramater test kits, dedicated buckets, etc.

Anyway here is my proposed setup for my 10g. Tell me what you think, as I'd like to make sure that no one thinks I'm missing anything important before I go and buy everything. Sorry for the weird formatting, most of this is posted from an Excel document that I re-organized here for clarity.

Lighting:
Archaea 36W PC Clip On

Filtration/Heater:
Eheim 2213 Canister Filter
Hydor ETH In-Line 200W (1/2")

CO2 System:
Azoo Regulator
5lb CO2 Cylinder
Nano CO2 Diffuser
Drop Checker
Bubble Counter/Check Valve
Suction Cups 01 5X
Suction Cups 02 5X
CO2 Resistant Tubing

Ferts:
Pfertz Med. Tech Solution

Substrate:
Aqua Soil Amazonia -9L
Misc:
Seiryu Stone (from Boink)
ADA Style tool kit (two pinscetts/ 1 straight sissor)
Lily Pipe In/Out 13mm

Flora:
HC (Hemianthus callitrichoides)
DHG (Elocharis acicularis)

Fauna:
Undetermined



Thanks in advance for all the help. This forum really has a helpful bunch.

Last edited by Armonious; 08-19-2010 at 06:44 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Bump before going to bed.

Not entirely sure what the protocol for bumping is on here, as I could not find a mention of it in the forum rules, so sorry if this is out of line.

I'm just anxious to get my supplies ordered, but before I feel safe doing so for my first planted tank, I want to make sure I'm not neglecting or skimping on anything.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 05:30 AM
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This looks like a quality list to me. Some very nice stuff. The only thing I would be at all concerned about is that people might be against the pressurized CO2 in a dorm. Of course, I don't know if you've checked that out already, or if you're even staying in a dorm.

Be sure to put up pictures too. I'm pretty interested to see all the other college aquarium setups.

Feeling adventurous? Maybe check out my current
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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I will be staying in an on-campus dorm. With regards to the CO2, I checked on the list of things that were not allowed to bring, and I could not really find any category that the CO2 would fit into. I will have to tell my roommate to probably call an advisor, as he was going to bring a praying mantis and/or trantula, but it says the only allowed pets are fish. I personally don't see why a mantis or trantula would be a problem.

I'm planning on building a stand for the tank, so everything will be in there and unaccessable. I thought that bringing pressurized CO2 would be better than using DIY. I would be very interested in any other college student's success with being allowed to use pressurized CO2. I think I remember reading that A Hill is using pressurized CO2 over at ASU. Honestly, I wouldn't expect it to be a problem unless someone was already causing problems, then they might tack it on to a list of offences. Kind of like the violations you get for not wearing a seatbelt: a cop can't pull you over for not being buckled up (at least in my state), but if you are pulled over for something else and then not wearing a seatbelt, that violation gets tacked on.

With regards to pictures, I plan on making a journal once all the equipment is in.

Any other opinions are certaintly welcome.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:05 AM
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Looks like a really nice setup.

I would ditch the heater, unless it is absolutely necessary...

Just don't have that co2 out in the open, and keep it on the dl when you have to bring it in and out...maybe go with a 2.5 for stealth (fits in backpack)..... you should be fine...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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@ xmas_one: About the heater- I wondered myself whether or not I should even bother with one. The room that I'm in has AC (and heating obviously). If other people think I don't need one as well, I might just do without. My 29 gal had the heater break a couple of weeks back and the temp now is more stable then it was when I had a functioning heater.

One thing that they have on the prohibited items list is the "fireworks/firearms/explosives" category. I decided not to go with dry ferts because of that little clause, to avoid any explaining of why I have bags of white powder and gramscales in my room are (well I suppose that would fit into a different category of contraband, but you get the point :P).

With regards to whether or not my CO2 cylinder could be concidered an "explosive", I interpret it to mean whether or not its intended use (or common use by teenage hoodlums) is to cause an explosion. Heck, I'm sure there will be plenty of things in my dorm that could be used as explosives, if you really wanted to use them that way.

One question on the 2.5lb cylinder: how long do you think that would last on a 10gal tank? I was hoping to get something that I would rarely have to refill, and I'd imagine I would not have to refill a 5lb cylinder for the entire schoolyear. If this long interval between re-fills would work on a 2.5lb cylinder as well, I'm all for one.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:24 AM
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I'd give ~3 months on a 2.5# on a ten gallon....

the big stinker with that co2 tank is your dorm monitor will likely think it's a nos tank...

if they see you taking it in and out of the dorm, they will stop you and raise a stink about it....be low key with the thing and you should be fine...

just remember, it's not jail, they aren't going to "flip" your dorm room looking for coke and bombs...lol, but a little discretion goes a long way..
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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I think I might just end up going with the 5# cylinder. It's about 3" taller and 1" greater in diamater than the 2.5#. Another benefit would be that I'd hardly ever have to refill it.

I'm really low key and levelheaded as it is, so I wouldn't imagine that being an issue. Worst case scenario would be that they would tell me that I can't have it in the dorm, but I don't think it's very likely to happen.

If/when I had to get it refilled, I would probably do it when my family is in town, since I won't have a car. Have the parents come up to my room, disconnect the regulator from the cylinder, put the cylinder in a box and have my mom or dad carry it out of there. I doubt any RA would give one of my parents any problems for carrying a box.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:43 AM
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Sounds good man, I look forward to seeing the build thread....
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, thanks to everyone that has posted so far. I would still like to have a couple other opinions before I go out and buy the lot.

Keep the comments and opinions coming, as I'm all ears here.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:38 PM
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Just as a comment from someone who's been in dorms before. Unless you leave the tank out in the open they won't ever even notice it. If they do notice it they may assume its for a gas grill or such and usually those would be banned from the dorms. (Even if its not in the posted dorm rules they always have plenty of unlisted ones or general university rules) Whenever you need to fill it just put it in a bag or box like you suggested, doesn't really matter who carries it, they wont check your bag/box. Main thing is to just not make a big deal about it and don't going showing it around or keeping it in a visible location.

As far as your roommate's pets. They usually ban everything except for fish because everything else has legs and can walk away if given the chance, giving into the possibility of unknown animals populating the buildings.

But ya, in dorms, if the RA doesn't see it and (if your school has them) the cleaning people don't care (they aren't paid to care after all) you'll be fine.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks kite.

What do you mean about leaving the tank out in the open? From what I'm thinking, I assume you mean not to make it so you can see the tank when you open the door to my room. My dorm has two rooms that can be used as bedrooms, and I'm going to be living in the one farther away from the door, so I'd probably put in a corner of that room or something like that.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 04:27 PM
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That looks like a pretty good list. Of course many don't use the powersand with the aquasoil, but it's a personal choice.

From an aesthetic point of view, if your using lily pipes you might want to consider taking the rim off if your using a standard 10g. There are several how-to threads around on how to do that.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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@ houseofcards: I had been wondering whether or not I needed the powersand. Does the powersand really help out that much, because if it doesn't, maybe I should just go with 9L of aquasoil? While I want to have a quality setup, I'm still going to be on a budget, so anywhere I feel I can cut expenses without harming the setup is good in my book.

With regards to de-rimming aquariums: I have already done it on an old 10 gal that my brother used. It was easy enough, but the glass has several scratches and hard water deposits that I couldn't remove. So, I'll very likely pick up a new 10g from my LFS. It isn't like they cost much at all, and I really like the rimless look.

Unanswered questions that I still have:
Do I need to go with a heater? My room has AC and heating. I'm in the Midwest, so cold winters do exist, but it rarely drops below zero.

Should I bother with getting 2L of powersand special to go with my 9L of aquasoil?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 06:12 PM
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I would definitely get a heater. Most tropical fish need to be kept in the 76-78F range, and it's unlikely your dorm rooms will be that warm during the winter. In addition, if you should ever need to medicate your fish, you often need to increase the temperature to do that.

A 25-50 watt heater with an adjustable thermostat is all you'll need, and they aren't very expensive.





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