he pretty much specializes in walstad method dirted tanks, nearly all of his how to videos are on dirted tanks. and there's way more information there than you can shake a stick at, but if you start with his basic tutorial videos (of which he has a plethora) you'll do just fine. ..if you can stand to listen to him talk =x
the high notes would be:
make sure there's no added fertilizers or other materials, you just want "dirt" plain old uncomplicated topsoil.
make sure it's perlite or vermiculite free, or any substances that retain water and add texture to the soil to keep it from becoming compacted as these will be a constant source of surface floaters
sift out the large chunks
heavily wet it (like 1+ feet of excess water above it. sometimes the only container large enough to do this is the fish tank itself), stir it up, let it settle, after a few hours pour/syphon off the resulting water and floaters
get as much water out of it as possible, press it, do whatever you need to in order to get a heavy mud that's not too wet.
scape it in your tank, i've heard 1" i've heard 2" i suspect less means more stable water sooner, more means longer surviving substrate before nutrients are depleated, choose which one will be your goal. fast set up, or long term tank. if you're trying for anything other than flat you will have to have substrate supports.
cap it with your substrate of choice, about 1" i do not recommend sand as the small particles will sift down into it and eventually you'll be left with an open dirt top, but that's just me
flood gently, the less you mix up the water, the less brown water you'll have to deal with and dust settling on your plant leaves as the water column clears.
i recommend not turning on your filter for a few days, rather just do gentle water changes till the water clears
be patient. easily takes twice as long to establish a dirted tank in my experience. i only tried it once, it was fun, and by about the 4th month all the bumps in the road had gotten smoothed out and everything was doing good. personally, i would recommend malaysian trumpet snails with the dirted tank, they'll keep the soil turning over so you don't get dangerous gas pockets and will prevent it from compacting to some degree as it decays over time. it's also very easy to burn plants in a new dirted tank, so much is released into the water column with that first flood, if you don't do regular water changes it's just too much for the plants to cope with. also, algae. pretty much a given while everything gets started unless you've planted VERY heavily.
also of note, and i have no idea if it was unique to my tank, or what, but when i switched to dirted tank, i had to drop the water circulation down by half. and i have run across some people who swear by dirted tanks and virtually no water circulation at all. /shrug. tread lightly on that one i'd say and evaluate what works best for you
also also, lol, don't try this if you change your tanks around a lot. every time you pull a plant or try to plant a new one, you'll be mixing everything up. once or twice, no big deal, but regularly over time? i've read some real nightmares that ended with a total tear down.
i think, really, the only true + for dirted tank is that it's very low tech friendly. my dirted tank created enough of its own CO2 through matter decay I didn't have to dose excel. the new experimental tank with pots, which was the old dirted tank, has to have daily excel dosing or i get terrible algae (granted, how much of that is due to Petco plant bringing in hair algee, and how much of that is due to low plant load, i can't say)