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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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New Tank Help

Hi Guys and Gals

Been a while since I posted. Just started up a new tank (upgrading from 40g to an 80g) and am having a few problems.

Hopefully someone will be able to help out with some advice.

OK tank details
Aqua One Regency 120 (Deep)
Dimensions Tank: 120W x 46D x 70H cm
Water Capacity: 300L

Lighting: 4 x 54W (2 x 6700k 2 x 10000k)
http://www.allpondsolutions.co.uk/bl...es-3837-0.html

Filter is Aquis 1200 (supplied with tank)
http://www.aquaone.co.uk/filter_external.php

Hydor Koralia 2 Pump in tank for extra water flow
http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/hydo...mp-p-1931.html

Pressurised CO2 with a Rex Grigg Inline Reactor

PH 7 KH 6 GH 7
50% water changes and EI dosing

All up and running, cycled for 4 weeks and just added a few fish and all going well from that front.

The problems I am having are to do with the CO2 and water flow.

I am getting a lot of bubbles from the spray bar (co2) which are not being
dissolved. I started with 1bps into the reactor but am now up to such a high number of bubbles that they are uncountable (which probably accounts for the bubbles being forced into the tank). The problem is that the CO2 levels in the tank don't appear to be going up. I have a drop checker and it is constantly dark green / blue. Before I put the fish in I tried upping the CO2 to ridiculous levels to get the drop checker to change to yellow (just to try and prove to myself that it was working correctly) but with no success. I am concerned that the co2 is not being dissolved in the reactor and that the flow into the tank is not distributing the water efficiently.

The outtake is bottom right at the back of the tank.
I have tried several different placements for the spray bar into the tank
Left Side bottom horizontal / Back bottom horizontal / Back top horizontal
But with only minimal differences in the CO2 reading.

Does anyone have advice on placement of the spraybar / additional power head ? Should I be using a spray bar at all or maybe a lily pipe ?

I am starting to get quite a bit of hair algae on the plants (especially, but not limited to, those to the right of the tank).

Any help, advice, criticism, pointing out of stupid mistakes would be gratefully accepted.

Thanks
Gary


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:52 PM
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I had an issue when going from my 50gallon tank to my 180 gallon tank a while back, and it was this. The new much larger tank, used a new much larger canister filter, with a much higher flow rate,.. when I hooked that up to my small inline co2 reactor it just sucked the bubbles right through, rather than having them bounce around and dissolve into the water column.

Could that be happening to you?

The way I solved it was making a much fatter, and slightly taller CO2 reactor, that slowed the water speed within the reactor, and made it do it's job

Whiskey
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 04:49 PM
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I think most of your problem is due to having such high light intensity. I suspect that 4 bulb T5HO light is giving you very high intensity. If you use only 2 of the bulbs you should have medium intensity, where CO2 and everything else isn't so critical. Algae, like plants, grows best with good lighting, so an algae problem is almost always caused in part by having lots of light. With medium light you won't need to keep the CO2 concentration as high, and fertilizing will be less critical. (I'm assuming you are already dosing nitrates, phosphates, potassium and trace elements.)

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Hello thanks for the replies

I will have to look into the issues with the reactor. I made it as tall as the cabinet would allow but maybe the fact it isn't that "fat" is just causing the bubbles to be pushed straight through before they get chance to dissolve properly.

With regards to the high light I worked it out at about 2.5 WPG (I know it is difficult with large tanks but as a rough guide should suffice). I didn't think this was overly high reading most of the recommendations, would have classed it as medium to high. I thought if I wanted to grow some of the more colourful plants I required high light.

Hoppy - are you saying that I'd be better off with just the one bank of lights on (less than 1.5 WPG) ? Am I missing something ?

With regards to dosing I m using EI (as well as I can) and dosing nitrates (dependent on levels after testing), potassium (10ppm after water change, 3ppm on day 3,5 and 7) and trace elements (15ml day 3,5,7). Phosphates are high in our tap water so not dosing phosphate (though I do find that the phosphate test are not the most accurate).

Does this sound right ?

Anyone any thoughts on the placement of the "in" and "out" ? Are they best both on the same side of the tank top and bottom ? Opposite sides ?

Thanks
Gary


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2010, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Bump
Anyone ?


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2010, 07:56 AM
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Id try what Hoppy was suggesting and turn off half of your lights in your t5 fixture. The Watt per gallon rule, so I've read, does not really apply to t5's. I am having the same issue on my 45 gallon. Both sets of lights is just asking for algae issues. If youd like, try having the other set of lights that you will be leaving off all the time, burst on at noon for an hour or two.

As for your filter placement, I would stick them both on the left or right wall of the tank, with your input as low and close to the back wall as possible to keep out of sight as much as possible.


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2010, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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OK Thanks
Am going to try turning off one of the banks of lights and
have it on for a limited "burst"
Fingers crossed


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