Starting a new tank.....and...... - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Starting a new tank.....and......

Ok.....been out of tanks for around 23 years, when we had kids and could no longer afford the time and money for the reef I had.....
Fast forward 23 years, all but one child out of the house and I decided to start a planted 75 gallon unit. I've got 2 Eheim 2217 canisters for water movement, filtration, and to power the CO2 reactor. The lighting is an Ecoexotic 120 LED. The substrate will be Ecocomplete black (scored 140 lbs cheap). There will be 2-3 pieces of mopani. I plan to try to heavily plant the tank while it cycles, and before I add fish and inverts, of course. Ferts will be liquid EI, dosed with a pump. If it helps, I tested some water prior....4 GH, 3 KH, pH 6.8......I will add buffer to get the KH up to 4-5, also raising the pH. Will control with an electrical solenoid and electrical regulator via a pH controller.
My question.....should I not bother dosing the ferts and CO2 right away, use just CO2 at first, or start it all? Lights planned for 6 hours per day, I am somewhat worried about algae, but don't want to inhibit growth of the new plants......what say you?
Fish? Was considering Endlers, but really want shrimp too......I might be relegated to Neons.....still thinking there.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 10:47 PM
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Welcome to TPT. You are off to a good start. I think the sooner you get your plants going in all respects, the better. Get used to dosing. Remember that most of the information you read as starting points for EI dosing is based on heavily planted tanks. Your tank will not be considered heavily planted until it fills in. You could add to your GH by putting some limestone, lace rock or Texas holey rock in the tank instead of dosing for that as well.

I have a 75 with two 2217's in my tank as well. You should probably think about adding some more flow. I actually put a wavemaker in my tank and I'm thinking about adding another. Flow is crucial to these tanks since you cannot vacuum the substrate.

Best of luck!

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 10:49 PM
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Start fertilizing the day you put the plants in and turn on the light.

Welcome back and enjoy!

Courtesy * Integrity * Perseverance * Indominable Spirit * and Self Control
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, loach guy and OVT!
Looked at a wave maker, but, man I SO want to avoid mechanicals IN the tank. What about adding a (another) pump I the base, and just pulling from the tank and sending it back topside?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 12:38 AM
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Sounds like you're off to a great start! Keep us updated.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 12:43 AM
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Perfect water for soft water fish, no need to raise the GH, KH or pH if you want most Tetras, Rasboras, and many others. Endlers are OK with these parameters, too. They do not eat Red Cherry Shrimp. I have not kept Endlers with other shrimp.

Nitrifying bacteria would grow faster in harder water, though, so you might raise the KH temporarily while cycling. When the bacteria colony is well grown, you can then alter the parameters to suit the fish.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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yea.....Ive heard Endlers eat shrimp....and i want shrimp....I have an uncle who keeps Endlers, but has no shrimp....lo tech tanks, and multitudes of Endlers at that! I just like the fact that I can raise a fish that probably has no chance in the wild these days, even if they arent yet extinct in their natural habitat.

With my already low pH, and lowish kH, im worried that the addition of my CO2 will really lower it, and fast, but wont know for sure until I actually do it!

Plants? SO many I like....just cant bring in Anacharis and Cabomba....MA wont allow them in.

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Originally Posted by malANDmatt View Post
Sounds like you're off to a great start! Keep us updated.

Will do, I have a vacation coming up this week, and I'll be away....but when I get back, it starts up!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lousyweather View Post
Thanks, loach guy and OVT!
Looked at a wave maker, but, man I SO want to avoid mechanicals IN the tank. What about adding a (another) pump I the base, and just pulling from the tank and sending it back topside?
You could do that. It's just easier to maintain a wavemaker/powerhead than it is a flow pump. I tried doing this before I added my second 2217. It was supposed to be for my off-line heater and CO2 reactor. On paper everything looked good. Well, it turned out that it was difficult to prime, clogged easily, was noisy, and only put out a trickle of flow by the time it got through my reactor and up into my tank. So if you attempt something like this, go at least 2 sizes bigger than the flow that you are looking for. I only went one size bigger and planned on dialing back the flow with a ball valve. I think I spent like $80 on that Hydor pump. The wavemaker that helped me turn the corner in this hobby cost me $50. Live and learn. I hope you have an awesome vacation. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

This isn't rocket surgery
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loach guy View Post
You could do that. It's just easier to maintain a wavemaker/powerhead than it is a flow pump. I tried doing this before I added my second 2217. It was supposed to be for my off-line heater and CO2 reactor. On paper everything looked good. Well, it turned out that it was difficult to prime, clogged easily, was noisy, and only put out a trickle of flow by the time it got through my reactor and up into my tank. So if you attempt something like this, go at least 2 sizes bigger than the flow that you are looking for. I only went one size bigger and planned on dialing back the flow with a ball valve. I think I spent like $80 on that Hydor pump. The wavemaker that helped me turn the corner in this hobby cost me $50. Live and learn. I hope you have an awesome vacation. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

yea, Loachguy! I am pretty much doing what you did with the two 2217's, but I have not run them yet with water.....I guess I will find out how it works too. Using the stock system that came with the 2217's as media, but also added 2 100mg pillows of Puringen to the top of each filter...cant hurt. One is actually powering my CO2 reactor, and yea, Ive heard they are tough to prime...cant wait for THAT! The other 2217 is simply pushing water thru a Hydor 200w inline heater and right up to the tank. I don't expect I will do any better than you with waterflow, so will likely have to add SOMETHING, but as I said before, I would prefer to have nothing in the tank. I can probably fit another pump below the tank, and simply pipe it back up to the top....any suggestions as to what flowrate?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 08:34 PM
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I say run with what you got now and don't agonize over a problem you might not have. Cross that bridge when you come to it. I run a 75T Discus tank for years with a single 2026 and did not know I had a problem until I started reading forums. Do make sure you have decent surface agitation and let her run.

2017 might be tricky to prime the first time. After that, just connect the filter without water and open the quick disconnects. Wait a second and plug in the power and off it goes.

Use tall plants to hide intake / outflow tubes: Water Sprite, Ambulia, Vals, Rotalas etc. etc.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:12 AM
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Not sure if you meant the filter is difficult to prime or not. I was talking about the circulation pump. To prime an Eheim follow these simple steps. The status of the filter is that it is powered off, all lines are connected and all 4 ball valves are closed. Make sure you have a towel or small pale, or both handy.

1. Disconnect the intake hose.
2. Open the ball valve on the intake hose going to your tank.
3. Draw a siphon on the intake hose. When water starts coming down the intake hose, close the ball valve.
4. Reconnect the intake hose.
5. Disconnect the output hose and open the ball valve on the hose that is connected to the filter.
6. Open both intake ball valves. This will cause your filter to fill up with water. So have your towel and pale ready.
7. When water begins flowing out of the output hose, close off the ball valve.
8. Reconnect the output hose and open all ball valves. You are ready to go.

Easy peasy

The Hydor pump that didn't work out for me is a 740gph centrifugal model.

This isn't rocket surgery
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