Help with Amazon Swords melting - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2020, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Help with Amazon Swords melting

I recently upgraded my tank to a 65 gallon and the tank has been up and running for a while, mostly doing good but I continue to have the some of the same issue with some plants that I had in my old 54 Gallon. I've gotten the algae under control but mostly the Amazon Swords just do not live. I also had some Anacharis planted in the front left of the tank when I first set it up, I put root tabs down there but as they did in my old tank, the bottom parts just rotted away and the whole mess ended up floating. It grows really well if I let it float, I just can't ever get it to take root. Even my Java Ferns don't seem to be doing that well, lots of holes in the leaves and such not vibrant green like I see in other tanks. Both tanks are quite deep so I am wondering if maybe the issue is PAR for my light at the bottom of the tank? I'm using a FLUVAL 3.0 and I have it set to ramp up to full light for 3 hours then ramp back down. I keep the blue light low as I understand that grows Algae. I use NILOCG Thrive C fertilizer and NILOCG Root Tabs. I have two Amazon Swords that have about 3-4 root tabs below them and I dose 3 squirts of Liquid fertilizer every day and they just look to be wasting away. In case it matters my light is about 22" above my substrate, which is about 2 inches of Carib Sea Tahitian Moon Sand.

If anyone can come up with some suggestions for me to try I would really appreciate it. I've read through many threads on this and I see many people with similar setups growing amazon swords with no issues.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 04:28 PM
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Give those plants some blue light!! Plants need blue spectrum for good growth, and white leds have a very limited spectrum. Most people run their blues/reds at a constant setting and peak their whites for a few hours. This mimics the rising/setting sun. Algae growth has less to do with spectrum than intensity. Turn the intensity down until you get plant growth and algae under control.

Also, the yellow discoloration on all the plants indicates major nutrient deficiencies. I would increase my ferts dose after a water change, so do 50% water change and then do the recommended dose of 1 squirt per 5g. Do that for a month then re-evaluate. Waterchange weekly is important.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question

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Originally Posted by Crazylegs78 View Post
Give those plants some blue light!! Plants need blue spectrum for good growth, and white leds have a very limited spectrum. Most people run their blues/reds at a constant setting and peak their whites for a few hours. This mimics the rising/setting sun. Algae growth has less to do with spectrum than intensity. Turn the intensity down until you get plant growth and algae under control.

Also, the yellow discoloration on all the plants indicates major nutrient deficiencies. I would increase my ferts dose after a water change, so do 50% water change and then do the recommended dose of 1 squirt per 5g. Do that for a month then re-evaluate. Waterchange weekly is important.
Thank you for the response. OK I will play with my light settings to add some blue back in I'll start at 25% and see how that goes, if no algae, I will up it. I do a 50% water change every Sunday and I put in 7 squirts of Thrive C and then I was putting in 3 squirts every day during the week. I'll start doing 13 twice a week now that I read the bottle correctly. But for nutrient deficiency on the swords that would mean I need more root tabs? Or do you think the Nilocg tabs are missing something that the swords want? Any opinion on the Thrive line? Should I stick with the C or go with Thrive or Thrive +?
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 06:30 PM
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Blue spectrum is required by plants for vegetative growth. All the ferts are worthless if the plant can't process them. Seriously, I would set reds and blues to 60-70% for the entire photoperiod. Ramp up your whites to 70% for a few hours like before.

Maybe stick with the initial 13 squirts per week until you see the plants begin to process the nutrients. I'm leaning away from lack of nutrients and more towards your plants not being able to synthesize due to lack of blue light.

IDK if this helps, but I used to run 30w daylight white leds on my 75g tank. Algae covered my plants new leaves within a week, and many of my plants were barely hanging on.


I switched to 20w RGB leds where the white light is generated by red, green, and blue leds only. This also resulted in a lot less intensity. My plant growth and health has absolutely rocketed. Algae is consistantly dying back and many of the older leaves of my plants remain algae free nutil it's time to trim them.


I hope this helps!
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Last edited by Darkblade48; 08-13-2020 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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I hadn't seen that spectrum chart before, very interesting. I'll jump my blue up to 60% and see how it goes. Thanks again for the responses, learning this plant stuff is a bit more of a learning curve than I ever imagined.

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IDK if this helps, but I used to run 30w daylight white leds on my 75g tank. Algae covered my plants new leaves within a week, and many of my plants were barely hanging on

I hope this helps!
If you don't mind another question, since you are leaning toward light being my issue, do you think a single Fluval 3.0 is enough for my 65 gallon?

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2020, 07:23 PM
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According to aquarium co-op, which is a trustworthy source, 1x36" fluval 3.0 should be good enough for medium light in your aquarium. The plants in your tank are mostly low light plants, so you should be good. Two of these fixtures would be considered high light and require CO2. I have recently adopted the belief that less is better when it comes to led lighting for planted tanks.
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