Plant Deficiency (Ludwigia + Rotala) - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-18-2020, 03:55 PM
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Hi @veliscorin,

Post some pictures of the H. corymbosa when you get a chance. -Roy

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-19-2020, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hi @Seattle_Aquarist,

This FTS is from July 28. Looking bad.

After I ripped most plants, I also cut as much as I could. H. Corymbosa pic is from 3 days agao.

Cheers
Veliscorin
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-19-2020, 04:47 PM
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Hi @veliscorin,

I don't believe I saw this information in previous posts. You mentioned you were in Singapore so it is possible that your water is very soft. Do you happen to know your:

pH =
dKH =
dGH =

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2020, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @veliscorin,

I don't believe I saw this information in previous posts. You mentioned you were in Singapore so it is possible that your water is very soft. Do you happen to know your:

pH =
dKH =
dGH =
Hi @Seattle_Aquarist

Tap
- PH = 7.6
- KH = 2 ~ 3
- GH = 4 ~ 5

Tank water
- PH = Around 6.8 to 7 before CO2, definitely 6 when CO2 is at peak
- KH = 2 ~ 3
- GH = 5 ~ 6

Does soft water and gh/kh matter for plants though?
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2020, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veliscorin View Post
Hi @Seattle_Aquarist

Tap
- PH = 7.6
- KH = 2 ~ 3
- GH = 4 ~ 5

Tank water
- PH = Around 6.8 to 7 before CO2, definitely 6 when CO2 is at peak
- KH = 2 ~ 3
- GH = 5 ~ 6

Does soft water and gh/kh matter for plants though?
Hi @veliscorin,

Absolutely, the dKH measures calcium carbonate. The dGH measures calcium and magnesium with a reading that is given in calcium equivalents. The plants primarily need calcium for cell wall production. Magnesium is necessary for photosynthesis. A insufficient available calcium can cause leaf margins to become 'wavy or scalloped' and poor leaf development with 'melted' looking areas and this first shows up in newer leaves. Insufficient available magnesium typically shows up as interveinal chlorosis followed by necrosis and premature leaf drop in older leaves.

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2020, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Hi @Seattle_Aquarist,

Thank you for the information. In this case, I'm assuming a few more points of kh will be better for me? I've read comments online that we should hardly need to artificially alter our tap water kh/gh though.

Cheers
Veliscorin
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2020, 12:20 PM
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The vast majority of plants prefer very soft water and most of the time Ca and Mg supplied by the substrate (active) and tap are sufficient. I would look to lighting, co2 and the build up of organics as the issue. Many times algae on leaves will cause plants to appear as if there is a fert issue. The Chihiros RGB sounds like a lot of light on a 5g. Do you know the PAR and how are you running it.


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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-23-2020, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hi @Asteroid

Lights at 2100 lm according to their website. I run it at 100% red, 50% green and blue. Not sure what that translates into lumen. I'm getting mixed advice (from LFS here) that my lights are just average and I could do max. I too feel it is too bright that's why I toned to 100-50-50.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-24-2020, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by veliscorin View Post
Hi @Asteroid

Lights at 2100 lm according to their website. I run it at 100% red, 50% green and blue. Not sure what that translates into lumen. I'm getting mixed advice (from LFS here) that my lights are just average and I could do max. I too feel it is too bright that's why I toned to 100-50-50.
Generally speaking 2100 lm on a 5g sounds like alot of light. Usually running a short peak period like 2 hrs and the rest fairly dim is a good way to drive strong light to the carpet and curtail algae. I've easily grown out full carpets of beautiful HC with a 2hr peak and 5 hr total light period. You could go longer than 5 just keep it fairly dim other than the 2 hr peak.

Dosing the full cocktail plus an active substrate and tap my money is on light, co2 and organic removal. I would also think about adding activated carbon to the filter. Most of the algae issues you SEE now started at the beginning when the spores (there everywhere) are triggered by the most minute ammonia levels. I start every tank with carbon for 2 months. Somehow the tanks grow on. The idea that carbon removes nitrate, phosphate and other nutrients we dose is just not true. In a high tech tank that receives regular dosing its a non-issue. It's more important to keep the tank, especially a new one pristine from a toxin standpoint until it matures.


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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2020, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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Hi @Asteroid thanks for your advice. I'm not sure dimming it down to 2hrs intense and total 5 hrs will cause any issue for now, so I'm putting 4 hrs intense, keeping total duration at 8. I'm guessing slowly reducing could be better?

As for the carbon, I have purigen in it's place. The next filter wash I'll swap for the stock carbon pad (which I removed since day 1).
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