Staurogyne repens collapse - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Staurogyne repens collapse

Hi guys, I had a nice lush carpet of SR that suddenly started to melt/wither. I originally had API root tabs in the substrate but that was like 6 months ago. Everything growing real fast, then I had a foggy water issue and then this happened. As you can see there are some sections of SR that look real bad.


Does this look like a deficiency of some sort?

I bought some nilocg root tabs and placed a few a couple days ago. But have not seen improvement. How long does it usually take to see a recovery?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sJsMZ8SmwvdAeyhMA
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-08-2020, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jah410 View Post
Hi guys, I had a nice lush carpet of SR that suddenly started to melt/wither. I originally had API root tabs in the substrate but that was like 6 months ago. Everything growing real fast, then I had a foggy water issue and then this happened. As you can see there are some sections of SR that look real bad.


Does this look like a deficiency of some sort?

I bought some nilocg root tabs and placed a few a couple days ago. But have not seen improvement. How long does it usually take to see a recovery?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sJsMZ8SmwvdAeyhMA
I do see some deficiencies, but I'll let someone else weigh in on those as I'm not too educated on them.

To the point of the melting, was the cloudy water white or green? If white then you probably had a cycle/mini cycle event in the tank which would cause an ammonia spike, and you could still be having the issue if nothing has been done to take care of it.
In my experience S. repens is somewhat sensitive to ammonia levels and from my own tank and others this causes them all to panic and melt.
Good news is that if left alone the entire carpet is likely to grow back once the tank stabilizes again.
For my tank I just vacuumed up the melted leaves once they departed from the stems and left the stems sitting there bare and after about a month, month and a half after I stabilized the tank again they started growing leaves again.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 04:51 AM
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When you suspect a deficiency of some sort you should list the brand and types of all fertilizer you are adding to the water. If the fertilizer is short on any one nutrient, that nutrient might be the one your are deficient in. Also list your water parameters PH, Gh, KH, NO3.

Just looking at the pictures some of the leaves look yellow with green veins in the leaves. Others just appear to have yellow leaves. possible nitrogen deficiency. The large plant at the top of the picture has ripples in the edge of the leaf. Possible Magnesium deficiency. Please Post your NO3 number you don't want it to be zero. Also check your GH level. some iron salts in fertilizers don't last long in the tank or are sensitive to PH.

Thrive root caps look OK but they recomend replacing them every 3 to 4 months. If they are 6 months old you probably have to add more IF your GH test comes in at less than 4 your tank might benefit from a increase in GH by1 or 2 degrees GH adding a GH booster.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 05:46 AM
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If a deficiency of a mobile nutrient plant will not recover, they just have to grow out of it after you fix problem.

You should be dosing water column if your not. Root tabs are optional, water column dosing is not.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2020, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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I usually dose with thrive for shrimp. I added a significant number of cardinals to the aquarium and ended up with a mini cycle I believe. I didn't pick up any ammonia in my tests, and the fish appeared fine, but there was a bacterial bloom.

During the 2 week period of trying to clear that up, I just didn't dose the water column because I wasn't sure if the extra nutrients were contributing to the problem. Maybe I went too long without dosing, or maybe that in conjuction with the slightly dimmed lights (due to the cloudy water) led to the issue.

Also I had shrimp for a while but they did not seem to tolerate my co2 that well so they died off. During the time, I was replacing water with a gH booster as my gH is naturally 0. This is odd I know as my kH reads as a 6 but all I can say is that the tests shows gH at 0. When the shrimp died off, I stopped dosing this so I assume the gH is back near zero. I don't recall having growth issues when my gH was zero, but maybe I just wasn't aware and the plants were smaller then and didn't need it.

Any of this information lead you guys towards a specific suspect?

Also my parameters are typically

pH: 8 (degassed)
kH: 6
gH:0
NO3: 10ppm
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
pH: 8 (degassed)
kH: 6
gH:0
NO3: 10ppm
GH measures the presence of calcium and magnesium in the water.. Plants need calcium and magnesium to grow. If your GH is zero that might explain it.

KH measures Carbonate (CO3) ions in the water. The most common carbonates in aquariums are sodium and potassium bicarbonate and Calcium and magnesium carbonate. The GH and KH tests will detect calcium and magnesium carbonate. However sodium and potation bicarbonate will only register on the KH test.

Do you happen to have a house water softener, that could explain your KH and your GH readings. Plants and shrimp need calcium and magnesium to live and grow. IF the water is too soft both could die. Most fertilizers don't have any calcium. So if you don't use a GH booster your plants won't do well and might die

When you were using the GH booster what was your measured GH? Also what brand GH booster did you use? Did you discontinue the GH when your water turned cloudy?

I would suspect the plants melt you have and shrimp die off were probably caused by a low GH level.

Also note your PH of 8 is not compatable with Fe DTPA in your Thrive fertilizer. If the PH is above 7 the Fe DTPA will start to break down and may as a result note be available for plants. In This case there are only 2 types of iron supplements that will work with PH 8 water.

Fe EDDHA, This iron fertilizer salt can tolerate a PH level much higher than 8. But strongly imparts a red tint to the water and is not frequently used in aquariums.

Fe gluconate,this iron salt is not affected by PH but the gluconate ion is a form of sugar and will be rapidly consumed by bacteria. As a result it should be dosed every couple of days to maintain a sable level of iron in your tank. Seachem iron is an iron gluconate supplement.

Lack of iron with a low GH could also contribute to plant melt. At this point I don't think your dimmed light caused the plant problem. And I doubt CO2 was the cause of your shirmp die of.

Last edited by Darkblade48; 02-14-2020 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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I'll definitely look into the iron stuff because with all the light colored leaves, iron could definitely be a contributing factor I think.

I do have a water softener which would explain the results.

When I had shrimp, I maintained a gH of around 6 by premixing seachem gH booster to the water each water change. They never really showed molting issues but rather slowly died off about 3 weeks after purchase.
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