How long for CO2 to take effect? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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How long for CO2 to take effect?

I added injected CO2 to my 20H two weeks ago and am not seeing much improvement. I'm seeing some "pearling" on a few plants, but am not sure how much I should be seeing. I actually see the most on the rocks where there is some residual algae. I have a drop checker in the tank, and it is lime green, so I believe I have at least 30ppm. I also have root tabs in the substrate and does an all-in-one liquid fert two times per week. I am using a Finnex Planted+ light, which seems plenty bright enough. Do I just need to be patient, or does it sound like I'm lacking something?

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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:13 PM
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If you seeing true pearling that's always a good sign. The plants are photosythesing at a fast rate. The Finnex Planted+ for a 20H would not be high light. So if your growing high light demand plants that could be an issue.


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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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I'm mostly seeing pearling from the algae. I am not sure of the light requirements for my plants. This is what I have:

Micro swords, golden jenny, heteranthera, juncus repens, and mayaca.

I just bought this light because it came highly recommended. It seems awfully bright to me. What do you recommend for a 20H?

The Mayaca is showing the most growth, which isn't a whole lot (maybe one inch in two weeks), and I'm getting a little growth from the Heteranthera, but everything else is stagnant. All but the uppermost few leaves of the Golden Jenny are covered in algae, and the micro swords haven't even sprung a new root in the month that they've been in there.

I should mention that all but the Heteranthera have been planted as-received, which was with the base wrapped in a foam band with a lead weight around it. I assumed it was okay to leave them like this since they were grown this way, but I'm wondering if I should remove the foam and weight and separate them. I just read micro swords should not be bunched together like this.

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Last edited by mossman77; 09-09-2019 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Added information
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:28 PM
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I don't think any of those plants need high light so you should be good light wise. Just saying if you are growing hi light demand plants there might not be enough PAR at that depth with the Finnex. At 2 weeks you should start to see some growth from the co2. The pearling on the algae is probably not true pearling.


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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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I looked up all of my plants, and found that the Heteranthera only requires low light, but will grow more rapidly with high light, whereas all the others require medium to high light. Also, the Juncus Repens and Mayaca supposedly need a nutrient rich substrate, which I thought I provided with the root tabs. So now what?

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mossman77 View Post
I looked up all of my plants, and found that the Heteranthera only requires low light, but will grow more rapidly with high light, whereas all the others require medium to high light. Also, the Juncus Repens and Mayaca supposedly need a nutrient rich substrate, which I thought I provided with the root tabs. So now what?
Ahy plant will grow faster in high light and co2. That's a given as long as nutrients are available. Those other plants aren't really high light as you stated med to high so they should be OK with light and the co2 helps alot. I wouldn't put too much weight in someone saying "it needs a nutrient rich substrate" All plants will take ferts from the water column.


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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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So if my light is good and my CO2 is at 30ppm, then should I add more nutrients? I've been dosing NilocG Thrive twice a weak at a rate of 2ml/10 gallons. I have the tank at 80F because I am keeping Congo Tetra in there. Should I try decreasing the temp to 78 to see if that has any effect?

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:38 PM
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I had a large school of Congo Tetras for 7 years and keep my tank between 75-78. I don't know how much 80 will affect the plants but moving it down to 78 certainly couldn't hurt.

As far as dosing, every tank is different in terms of uptake so you would have to do some testing and or see if their are any issues.

Just read about the weights, yes those should be removed and the plants should be separated a bit.


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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteroid View Post
I had a large school of Congo Tetras for 7 years and keep my tank between 75-78. I don't know how much 80 will affect the plants but moving it down to 78 certainly couldn't hurt.

Okay, I'll give that a try.


Quote:
As far as dosing, every tank is different in terms of uptake so you would have to do some testing and or see if their are any issues.
What's the best way to test for nutrient levels/deficiency? I have PO4, kH, and gH testers in addition to the standard ones, but those aren't going to tell me if I need more iron, nitrogen, etc (are they?)


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Just read about the weights, yes those should be removed and the plants should be separated a bit.
Will do. Thanks.

Should also mention that I've noticed an increase in algae growth since adding CO2, but I guess that makes sense since algae is a plant too.

Would it be worth adding an iron and a nitrogen supplement into the mix to see if that helps?

Last edited by Darkblade48; 09-11-2019 at 01:27 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 04:52 PM
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All depends what's in your all in one fert and what's in your water. You could easily test for N with an No3 test kit. If your getting Iron from your fert you more than likely don't need to dose extra.


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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using NilocG Thrive, which contains iron. What the heck do you think the problem is then? I thought my plants were going to take off once I added injected CO2. I've seen little to no change.

NilocG ingredients:

Total Nitrogen(N)...................2.56%
2.56% Water Soluble Nitrogen(N)
Available Phosphate(P2O5).......1.58%
Soluble Potash(K2O)..................9.74%
Magnesium(Mg)...........................0.32%
0.32% Water Soluble Magnesium(Mg)
Calcium(Ca)..................................0.02%
Sulfur(S).......................................0. 54%
0.54% Combined Sulfur(S)
Boron(B)......................................0.00 8%
Copper(Cu)..................................0.0002 %
0.0002% Water Soluble Copper(Cu)
Iron(Fe)........................................0. 42%
0.42% Water Soluble Iron(Fe)
Manganese(Mn)..........................0.168%
0.168% Water Soluble Manganese(Mn)
Molybdenum(Mo)........................0.0006%
Zinc(Zn).......................................0.0 038%
0.0038% Water Soluble Zinc(Zn)

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:09 PM
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Plants need 3 things actually 4, Light, co2, food and clean water without algae impeding their growth.

A pic might help.

For co2, have you done the 1 pt drop test. Your Ph co2 enriched water (after co2 running for a few hours) should be approx. 1.0 lower than your degassed water (tap or tank sitting around for a few hours). This usually indicates good co2.

In terms of ferts you could dose a little more (shouldn't hurt anything) as long as you continue to do water changes regularly. If algae is getting on plant leaves that would definitely hurt plant growth. Also trim any dead/damaged leaves. This always helps to reduce decaying organics and push the plant to produce new leaves.
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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't done that test. I've just been monitoring my drop checker, and it indicates at least 30ppm. I do need to clean some algae off the sides and I'll trim the plants like you suggest.

So I shouldn't dose extra iron and nitrogen? I just bought both.

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Last edited by mossman77; 09-10-2019 at 06:00 PM. Reason: Added comment
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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I've decided to give dry ferts and EI dosing a try. I'm assuming this will resolve any deficiencies I have and allow me to hone in on a recipe that works best for me. The 20 gallon tank I will be dosing isn't very heavily planted. Should I cut the EI dosing amounts in half to start and see how it goes? The recipe calls for 1/8 tsp KNO3, 1/32 tsp KH2PO4, 1/32 tsp K2SO4 and 1/32 tsp of trace elements (CSM+B) for a well-planted tank, so I would start with 1/16, 1/64, 1/64, 1/64.

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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 12:10 AM
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Two weeks isn't that long a time for CO2 in a newly planted tank. Plants take a while to get established in a new environment or with any changes. Need to have some patience.

Also didn't notice if anyone else covered this but the foam band, lead weight, rubberbands, oasis material, gel etc. all need to be removed from new plants. Stem plants individual stems should be planted near each other in groups but not right on top of each other.


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