Plants Not Doing So Hot After Returning Home - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 7
Plants Not Doing So Hot After Returning Home

Heyoooo. So a little over a week ago, I got in an order of aquatic plants and planted them all in my tank. I had to leave on spring break and wasn't home from Friday March 29th till today, and when I got back, the plants aren't completely dying per say, but they could be doing better. The pygmy chain swords have a good amount of brown leaves, the wisteria is yellow and showing rot in some leaves, and even the anacharis is showing some browning. I have API root tabs in the substrate which is otherwise inert. I also dosed seachem excel before I left and gave another full dose when I got back. But is there anything else I can do to help these plants get better? The photoperiod right now is six hours a day but I'll probably bump it up now that I'm back and can monitor things. Any advice would really be appreciated. Thank you!
MouseWithADinosaurTail is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:30 AM
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseWithADinosaurTail View Post
Heyoooo. So a little over a week ago, I got in an order of aquatic plants and planted them all in my tank. I had to leave on spring break and wasn't home from Friday March 29th till today, and when I got back, the plants aren't completely dying per say, but they could be doing better. The pygmy chain swords have a good amount of brown leaves, the wisteria is yellow and showing rot in some leaves, and even the anacharis is showing some browning. I have API root tabs in the substrate which is otherwise inert. I also dosed seachem excel before I left and gave another full dose when I got back. But is there anything else I can do to help these plants get better? The photoperiod right now is six hours a day but I'll probably bump it up now that I'm back and can monitor things. Any advice would really be appreciated. Thank you!


Itís not uncommon for plants to melt in their new home over the first 3 weeks or so. Just cut off the yellowing and dying leaves and look for the new growth. Donít over do it with fertilizer it sounds like you have that covered with the tabs. I wouldnít add more excel. Some plants are sensitive to it. Let them start their new growth then get back to your regular fertilizer methods. Good luck with your aquarium.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chickinpic is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 7
Will do. Thank you!
MouseWithADinosaurTail is offline  
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 01:26 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
johnson18's Avatar
 
PTrader: (24/100%)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,932
If they came from most of the commercial operations, both small and large, there is a high possibility that many if not all of plant species you got had been grown emersed with roots below water but leaves above. This will cause a transition period where the emersed growth will melt while the new submersed growth begins to form, as mentioned above.

If youíve got co2 & actively dose, I would suggest continuing to dose but we aware that the new plants wonít be using quite as much until they are done transitioning. 6hr is plenty of light. The least amount of time Iíll ever recommend(or use myself) is about 4hr. If youíve got other plants in your tank that arenít super slow grower like Anubias, Bucephalandra, or other similar growing speed plants, Iíd be hesitant to adjust the photoperiod.

Most plants will bounce back pretty quick, maybe 2-5 weeks. You might think about weekly or weekly + as needed water changes(if you donít currently have that schedule) so that all of the decaying plant matter wonít cause any issues. You shouldnít have any serious issues transitioning you new plants. I know you got the short answer version above, just thought Iíd add a bit more detail. Good luck.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


RAOK Club #24
johnson18 is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:15 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,062
I don't believe this is an emerged issue with the plants.

You are using API root tabs. these provide nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous, and iron. that is 4 out of the 14 nutrients that are essential to get plants to grow. Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous are 3 of the 6 macro nutrients. you are missing the other 3, calcium, magnesium and sulfur. Iron is a micro nutrient.There are 7 other micros needed.
excel only provides a source of carbon and has no macro and micro nutrients.

If you are short on just one nutrient you may get little to no growth and your plants may start to die. Now your water and substrate in your aquarium may have some of the missing nutrients but it is unlikely they will entirely cover the shortage. Your plant have likely greatly depleted the missing nutrients and are now suffering. Short term you can do a a large water change to boost nutrient levels. Long term you need to get a more complete fertilizer. I would suggest Niloct.com Thrive. It is much more complete than any API or Seachem fertilizer.

The fulll macro list in Nitrogen (N), Potassium (K), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Phosphorous (P), and Sulfur (S)

The full micro list is Iron (Fe), Chlorine (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Boron (B), Zinc (Zn), Copper Cu), Molybdenum (Mo), and Nickel (Ni)

Last edited by Surf; 04-10-2019 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Removed unintended bump
Surf is online now  
Reply

Tags
aquarium plants, fertilizer, plants

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'Forest Bend' 120 gallon journal Axelrodi202 Tank Journals 50 01-01-2018 12:02 AM
Direct vs Indirect Variables to Promote Healthy Prolific, and Algae Free Tanks mfranco General Planted Tank Discussion 1 09-11-2016 02:54 AM
Trimming Plants in the Nature Aquarium by Takashi Amano Hypancistrus General Planted Tank Discussion 21 09-04-2008 12:07 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome