Anubias leaf problem - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Anubias leaf problem

A couple anubias leaves throughout my tank are having problems where white patches form and then decay to form holes. Only guess would be from being under too high intensity of a light?
Anyone had this problem or seen something similar?


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Ventchur View Post
A couple anubias leaves throughout my tank are having problems where white patches form and then decay to form holes. Only guess would be from being under too high intensity of a light?
Anyone had this problem or seen something similar?


Hi @Ventchur,

Based upon what I see it appears to be a symptom indicating a lack of available potassium (K) however your plants are showing symptoms of other possible nutrient deficiencies are well. What are your currently dosing for nutrients, how much, and how often?

Can you provide any water parameter information? ph, dKH, dGH, nitrates (ppm of NO3)
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Ventchur,

Based upon what I see it appears to be a symptom indicating a lack of available potassium (K) however your plants are showing symptoms of other possible nutrient deficiencies are well. What are your currently dosing for nutrients, how much, and how often?

Can you provide any water parameter information? ph, dKH, dGH, nitrates (ppm of NO3)
My tank holds around 75 litres and i'm dosing around 6-8ml of Tropica Specialised weekly. The recommended dosage is 10ml/100litres. Just tested ph at 6.4 and nitrates at 20ppm. Don't have dKH or dGH testing equipment.

Water changes at 50-75% per a week with tap water plus prime.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 01:36 AM
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Hi @Ventchur,

Here is what I found on Tropica Specialised:
Quote:
Specialised Nutrition
See how Specialised Nutrition with nitrogen and phosphor is easily and exactly dispensed with the included pump.


Contains nitrogen and phosphor for fast-growing and demanding plants
Also contains iron, manganese and vital micro nutrients
Suitable for aquariums with many and fast-growing plants

How to use the product

Specialised Nutrition is added each week when the water is changed. The pump bottle dispenses 2 mL per push.
We recommend 6 mL (3 pumps) per 50 L water weekly. However, we recommended that this is set in accordance with plant requirements. Specialised Nutrition contains, in addition to micro-nutrients, all essential macro-nutrients. The fertiliser is particularly suitable where plants display a lack of nutrition. However note that if algae growth starts, Specialised Nutrition will promote this growth.

Specialised Nutrition contains nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P). Dosage must therefore be adapted to plant absorption rates, to avoid undesirable algae growth. Where signs of algae growth develop, reduce the dosage by 50% and increase water changing frequency by 50%. Changing the water not only reduces the concentration of nutrients in the water, but also removes algae spores, remnants and other accumulated elements from the aquarium water.
As you can see, no mention of potassium (K) even though it claims to have "all essential macro-nutrients".

Are you possibly on the 'wet coast' of Canada (Vancouver / Victoria) or do you use a water softener for the water in your tank? What I see seem to be 'soft water' related issues including possibly magnesium and calcium. Here is what I suggest:

1) Continue dosing your current nutrients and doing water changes as you have been.

2) Pick up some Seachem Equilibrium which is a GH Booster containing potassium, calcium, magnesium, and lesser amounts of other nutrients.

3) Do an initial dose of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons

4) Thereafter, when you do water changes, add 1 teaspoon of Equilibrium per 10 gallons of new water added.

5) Now the hard part....................wait.

Watch the new leaves as they emerge and mature. Do they look straighter, healthier, possibly with better color, and also possibly a faster growth rate (although even healthy Anubias as slow to begin with). More importantly, as these new leaves mature they should not develop the white flecks that become necrotic. They should also remain much straighter without the curling leaf margins and leaf tips that you currently see. Remember, watch the new growth....the existing leaves will not improve and may continue to decline.

Questions just ask! Keep us posted as things progress! -Roy

Quote:
Potassium deficiency symptoms first appear on the recently matured leaves of the plant (not on the young, immature leaves at the growing point). In some plants, the first sign of potassium deficiency is a white specking or freckling of the leaf blades. With time, the symptoms become more pronounced on the older leaves , and they become mottled or yellowish between the veins and scorched at the margins. These progress inward until the entire leaf blade is scorched. If sodium cations are present and taken up in place of K+1, leaf flecking (necrotic spots scattered on leaf surface) and reduced growth occur. Potassium is phloem retranslocated from old leaves to new growth.

Roy_________
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Ventchur,

Here is what I found on Tropica Specialised:


As you can see, no mention of potassium (K) even though it claims to have "all essential macro-nutrients".

Are you possibly on the 'wet coast' of Canada (Vancouver / Victoria) or do you use a water softener for the water in your tank? What I see seem to be 'soft water' related issues including possibly magnesium and calcium. Here is what I suggest:

1) Continue dosing your current nutrients and doing water changes as you have been.

2) Pick up some Seachem Equilibrium which is a GH Booster containing potassium, calcium, magnesium, and lesser amounts of other nutrients.

3) Do an initial dose of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons

4) Thereafter, when you do water changes, add 1 teaspoon of Equilibrium per 10 gallons of new water added.

5) Now the hard part....................wait.

Watch the new leaves as they emerge and mature. Do they look straighter, healthier, possibly with better color, and also possibly a faster growth rate (although even healthy Anubias as slow to begin with). More importantly, as these new leaves mature they should not develop the white flecks that become necrotic. They should also remain much straighter without the curling leaf margins and leaf tips that you currently see. Remember, watch the new growth....the existing leaves will not improve and may continue to decline.

Questions just ask! Keep us posted as things progress! -Roy
I don't know why the website doesn't give the full details but here is a picture of the bottle, how does that list look?



Im in Toronto, Ontario but I definitely will pick up some Seachem Equilibrium and test that out. I'll keep my eye out because i've definitely seen other plants with wonky leaves also (rotala/srepens).
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 03:21 AM
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Hi @Ventchur,

Thank you for the picture. It would appear that you should have sufficient potassium unless there is excessive unless you have a lot of calcium in your water....calcium impedes the uptake of potassium.

According to the 'web':
Quote:
Is Toronto tap water hard or soft?
To put this in perspective, water in Toronto is considered moderately hard at 6 to 7 grains per gallon; water in the Guelph, Kitchener, Waterloo area hardness averages 34 grains per gallon, which is extremely hard. ... By comparison, water in Vancouver is naturally soft at 0.3 grains per gallon.
In case you are curious, here is where you can find the Toronto Water Quality Report(.pdf) Looks like you average 36 ppm of Ca, 9 ppm of Mg, and very little potassium at 1.5 ppm. Keep us posted and let us know how things go.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Ventchur,

Thank you for the picture. It would appear that you should have sufficient potassium unless there is excessive unless you have a lot of calcium in your water....calcium impedes the uptake of potassium.

According to the 'web':


In case you are curious, here is where you can find the Toronto Water Quality Report(.pdf) Looks like you average 36 ppm of Ca, 9 ppm of Mg, and very little potassium at 1.5 ppm. Keep us posted and let us know how things go.
Just tested KH and GH with the API liquid test kit. KH=3 GH=6
This is with no equilibrium, only tap+prime. What do you think?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 04:22 AM
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Just tested KH and GH with the API liquid test kit. KH=3 GH=6
This is with no equilibrium, only tap+prime. What do you think?
Hi @Ventchur,

Add sufficient Seachem Equilibrium to increase your hardness by 2.0 dGH to 8.0 dGH(don't worry about the dKH). When you do a water change add sufficient to bring the hardness back up to 8.0 dGH. Watch your plants for improvement over the next two weeks!

Roy_________
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Ventchur,

Add sufficient Seachem Equilibrium to increase your hardness by 2.0 dGH to 8.0 dGH(don't worry about the dKH). When you do a water change add sufficient to bring the hardness back up to 8.0 dGH. Watch your plants for improvement over the next two weeks!
A little update:



After adding equilibrium to the mix growth definitely looks better to me and no more signs of leaf necrosis.


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:58 AM
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Hi @Ventchur,

More importantly, how do you feel the newest leaves look? (Remember, the leaves that were existing prior to the change will not improve and may continue to decline). In my opinion the newest leaves seem to look better, however let's wait until after another set of leaves emerge before making additional changes.

Roy_________
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