Hygro Siamensis Deficiency? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Hygro Siamensis Deficiency?

Is this a deficiency? Leaves are starting to curl inward on the longitudinal axis of the plant. My GH from tap is only 2, I add 3tbsp GH booster weekly. Weekly dosing is 25K, 10NO3, 2PO4. Micros 1/8 daily. @Seattle_Aquarist

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 11:06 PM
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Hi @Igor95,

Are those leaves that have formed since the stems were planted in the tank or are those leaves that were on the stems when you purchased them?

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-16-2018, 11:12 PM
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In addition to the curl, the pitted texture of the leaves is a big indicator that something is off. The leaves should be flat and smooth, not all dimpled up.

This plant loves macros. My suggestion is to double NO3 and PO4, K looks pretty good.

*Im just assuming you have co2 and it's not a low tech tank
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Last edited by burr740; 10-17-2018 at 04:45 AM. Reason: .
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 04:11 AM
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I've also read that this plant is a potassium hog.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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@Seattle_Aquarist, it was planted about a month ago, I waited for a few nodes to grow and trimmed the old emerged growth. This is what grew in my tank. @burr740, yeah the leaves look all crinkly, I notice that. It's a high tech, correct. I'll double the macros and will report back with new growth.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 10:30 PM
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Hi @Igor95,

Quote:
My GH from tap is only 2, I add 3tbsp GH booster weekly.
Looking at the upward reach of the leaves my first suspicion would be insufficient magnesium. Normally we would look at older leaves for signs of interveinal chlorosis to determine if there is a magnesium issue but in this case there are no 'older leaves'. Obviously you are getting new growth, and it doesn't look 'bad' but I agree it could look better. If you wait a few more weeks until these leaves start to mature then maybe we will see interveinal chlorosis. A calcium deficiency can cause distortion of new leaves although I do not see the typical leaf tip hook that occurs when calcium levels are low. You say you are dosing three (3) tablespoons of Seachem Equilibrium per week that should be sufficient to bring the hardness of your tank up to [email protected] ...... is that your current dGH?

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Igor95,



Looking at the upward reach of the leaves my first suspicion would be insufficient magnesium. Normally we would look at older leaves for signs of interveinal chlorosis to determine if there is a magnesium issue but in this case there are no 'older leaves'. Obviously you are getting new growth, and it doesn't look 'bad' but I agree it could look better. If you wait a few more weeks until these leaves start to mature then maybe we will see interveinal chlorosis. A calcium deficiency can cause distortion of new leaves although I do not see the typical leaf tip hook that occurs when calcium levels are low. You say you are dosing three (3) tablespoons of Seachem Equilibrium per week that should be sufficient to bring the hardness of your tank up to [email protected] ...... is that your current dGH?
I'm dosing 3 tbsp of Nilocg GH Booster, not Seachem Equilibrium. That brings me up to about 4.5 dGH. Something I'm concerned about is too much accumulative calcium. Even with weekly water changes of 50%, dosing 3 tbsp of gh booster, won't the dGH just keep rising?
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 12:17 AM
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Hi @Igor95,

Yes it will. Typically I tell folks to dose one (1) teaspoon per 10 gallons (aka one tablespoon per 30 gallon) as the 'initial dose' which should increase the hardness of the tank by 2.0 dGH. Thereafter when doing water changes dose one (1) teaspoon per 10 gallons of new water added. Obviously you want to monitor the hardness regularly because as the plants grow they will consume some the of K, Mg, and Ca in the GH Booster.

Your 4.5 dGH is still very soft, you could increase it if you wanted depending upon the fish species in the tank. Keep in mind some species evolved such that they may require more of certain nutrients than other species.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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I'll keep dosing 3 tbsp per week since the water is very soft anyways. Any tips to avoid Ca toxicity down the road? Should I ease up on the GH booster once every few months, maybe miss a week or something like that?
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 04:11 PM
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Hi @Igor95,

Once you hit your desired hardness level (determined by plant health) just back down the amount you add during water changes to
Quote:
Thereafter when doing water changes dose one (1) teaspoon per 10 gallons of new water added.
and monitor your dGH regularly and adjust dosage. Each tank will differ depending upon the uptake of nutrients by the plants.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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@Seattle_Aquarist @burr740, I got some more deficiencies for you guys... I didn't want to make a million deficiency threads but here we go. The Limnophila hippuridoides doesn't have those long leaves, it's growing leaves half the size and they're all growing the same size. Normally, the old leaves are nice and big and the new ones are smaller and over time it has that sprouting effect if that makes sense, but these are growing at the same pace, same size. Everything has gsa. The ludwigia rubin is getting a ton of gsa not only on the bottom leaves, also on the mid leaves now. The new leaves are crinkly and wavy, while the old ones are flat. The Pogo Erectus is getting ratty leaves, instead of growing out, they're all over the place. If this matters, I added a 2nd LED for 2 days to see if I can get away with it, and the pogo erectus started getting some hair algae so I backed off on the light, went back to 1 led. Also it started putting out some side shoots all over the stems. I'm reading about 5ppm PO4, 20 NO3, and I dosed about 25-30 K. Co2 is good, PH drops to 6 on the test, can't go any lower. Degassed PH is 7.2-7.4. What's going on?


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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 04:41 PM
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Hi @Igor95,

I spotted the Ludwigia issue in your previous pictures, keep increasing your dosing of calcium and magnesium. The 'balled together' Pogostemon tips can be calcium issue. Also, if you have a phosphate test kit you may want to check your water parameters, undersized new leaves can be a sign of a lack of phosphorus. Keep in mind that as the amount of biomass (plants) in your tank increases the amount of all the nutrients they utilize / need increases as well.


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle_Aquarist View Post
Hi @Igor95,

I spotted the Ludwigia issue in your previous pictures, keep increasing your dosing of calcium and magnesium. The 'balled together' Pogostemon tips can be calcium issue. Also, if you have a phosphate test kit you may want to check your water parameters, undersized new leaves can be a sign of a lack of phosphorus. Keep in mind that as the amount of biomass (plants) in your tank increases the amount of all the nutrients they utilize / need increases as well.

I just ran all the tests fresh. I got 40 NO3, 5 PO4, 2 KH, 7 GH. Micros are 1/8 daily still. What more can/should I do? I'm also noticing more and more pinholes on the plants. Even the rotala has a few pinholes. I don't understand what's going on... First I think I have too much K, now I have a deficiency?
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 06:21 PM
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Hi @Igor95,

Your current dosing levels look good including micros.

Just out of curiosity what lead you to believe you had too much K?

If it were me I would do nothing for the next week or two, keep the current dosing levels, do your regular water changes, and see how the various plant species respond to current dosing levels. Changing a nutrient level does not necessarily mean the plant responds immediately; it can take a week or so (for new leaves to emerge) if we are dealing with a immobile nutrient issue and a month or more (for new leaves to emerge and mature) if we are dealing with a mobile nutrient issue.

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