Black Flourite + Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 + Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Black Flourite + Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 + Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss

Hi

I'm going to tear down two of my aquariums that have Eco-Complete and replace the substrate with Flourite Black.

I am thinking about putting a small sprinkling of Schultz Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss on the bottom and then cover that with a sprinkling of Osmocote Plus Smart-Release Multipurpose Plant Food 15-9-12. Then top that with the Flourite Black.

I am going to put a border of Flourite Black around the parameter to keep the Osmocote from showing through the aquarium glass.

Both aquariums are 15g with high light and pressurized CO2.

Do you think that the Osmocote Plus will cause a problem?

Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 GUARANTEED ANALYSIS F1143
Total Nitrogen (N)†.................................... 15.0%
8.0% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
7.0% Nitrate Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5)†......................... 9.0%
Soluble Potash K2O)†................................... 2.0%
Calcium (Ca)† ............................................ 1.9%
Magnesium (Mg) (Total)† ............................. 1.4%
0.7% Water Soluble Magnesium (Mg)
Sulfur (S) (Total)† .......................................4.0%
4.0% Combined Sulfur (S)
Boron (B)† ................................................. 0.02%
Copper (Cu) (Total) ..................................... 0.05%
0.05% Water Soluble Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe) (Total)† ........................................ 0.45%
0.42% Water Soluble Iron (Fe).
0.03% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) (Total)† .............................. 0.06%
0.06% Water Soluble Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo)† ....................................... 0.02%
Zinc (Zn) (Total) ......................................... 0.05%
0.019% Water Soluble Zinc (Zn)†
Derived from: Polymer-Coated: Ammonium Nitrate, Ammonium Phosphate, Ammonium Sulfate,
Calcium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Chloride, Magnesium Oxide,
Magnesium Sulfate, Calcium Carbonate, Ferrous Sulfate, Iron EDTA, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc
Sulfate, Boric Acid, Sodium Molybdate; Copper Sulfate and Zinc Oxide.
†The Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium, Sulfur, Boron, Iron, Manganese,
Molybdenum, and Zinc sources have been coated to provide 12.7% coated slow-release
Nitrogen (N), 7.6% coated slow-release Available Phosphate (P2O5), 10.2% coated slowrelease
Soluble Potash (K2O), 1.6% coated slow-release Calcium (Ca), 0.6% coated slowrelease
Magnesium (Mg), 3.4% coated slow-release Sulfur (S), 0.017% coated slow-release
Boron (B), 0.38% coated slow-release Iron (Fe), 0.051% coated slow-release Manganese (Mn),
0.017% coated slow-release Molybdenum (Mo), 0.019% coated slow-release Zinc (Zn).

ADA Amazonia has a lot of ammonia in it too, but you can get it down to acceptable levels by doing numerous water changes and it works great.

The Osmocote's nutrients are released somewhat slowly since they are polymer-coated.

Do you think that this will work?

Thanks,
Left C

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 08:32 PM
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The release of nutrients from any slow release fert is temperature dependent. since the tank will be stable there, so will the NH4 release.

Bacteria will establish after awhile and take care of most of it.
I still think the texture of a semi soft clay like ADA AS is better, each grain has some nutrients vs just a layer, the outside of the grain is not leaching after the initial phase and then the plant can access the nutrient via the roots in the soft clay(vs rock).

Regards,
Tom Barr


Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Tom.

I have two other tanks that I will be setting up with Amazonia (original).

If I had to do it all over, all of these aquariums would have Amazonia. The only reason why I went with Black Flourite was because of the variability of each bag of Amazonia. The two 15g aquariums have fish in them now and I was a bit concerned about the ammonia and nitrite levels.

The two other aquariums with Amazonia will be using your "dry start" method.

Thanks a million!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 11:37 PM
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I would advise against using osmocote but am interested if anybody has tried it. Despite what its labeling may say, it was designed to be used in pots as part of a nursery where shrubs are grown out and sold as liner stock for other nurseries. It works well in those situations but in my experience of a dozen or so years using the stuff commercially it always broke down well in advance of its intended life. If it was used in a continually submerged state I would be surprised if it lasted more then a month unless they changed the formula. It also becomes increasing fragile as it approaches the point where it releases its contents and can easily be broken with little force. So when you transplant something or move something in the aquarium A nice sudden jump in ammonia as the pellet breaks may occur. Remember the inside of those pellets is liquid fertilizer. I remember popping them with my fingers after a couple weeks in the pots. So proceed carefully and without fish.

Last edited by marrow; 08-20-2008 at 11:39 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 11:45 PM
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Why not try Aaron T's mineralized soil method?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
Why not try Aaron T's mineralized soil method?
I've been following the threads about it. It sounds great, but I've already purchased the Flourite Black and the Amazonia.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 02:45 PM
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Just curious. Why are you taking out the eco?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marrow View Post
I would advise against using osmocote but am interested if anybody has tried it. Despite what its labeling may say, it was designed to be used in pots as part of a nursery where shrubs are grown out and sold as liner stock for other nurseries. It works well in those situations but in my experience of a dozen or so years using the stuff commercially it always broke down well in advance of its intended life.
My osmocote has always maintained through the long haul - as a matter of fact, it's not uncommon for me to find residual osmocote in my beds after the winter has passed and I'm replanting in the spring. There are at least 4 varieties of osmocote that I use/have used, but I haven't ever noticed a difference in their release time. Interestingly enough, however, this year I did notice that my osmocote seemed to not last as long than in years past, and blame it for my begonias stunted growth.


Quote:
Originally Posted by marrow View Post
If it was used in a continually submerged state I would be surprised if it lasted more then a month unless they changed the formula. It also becomes increasing fragile as it approaches the point where it releases its contents and can easily be broken with little force. So when you transplant something or move something in the aquarium A nice sudden jump in ammonia as the pellet breaks may occur. Remember the inside of those pellets is liquid fertilizer. I remember popping them with my fingers after a couple weeks in the pots. So proceed carefully and without fish.
This is a very, very good point. I remember I told a friend they were snail eggs one time (really freaked her out)...
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grammypat View Post
Just curious. Why are you taking out the eco?
The E-C is around 6 years old. It is still working fine, but there are many empty MTS shells around.

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