Thanks guys, I bought some floss for my filters. Hopefully That will fix it. Next step getting my drift wood to stay underwater.
If you want to get floating driftwood to sink, just tie a heavy stone or something to the wood and throw it in a container full of water. After a week or so, give or take, it should finally stay down. This is what I do.
Also, for flourite, I found this method works very well:
Okay, we know the particles in flourite (good bag) can be very small and if you pour water into your tank fast, it'll push all these particles up. Also, since flourite is a clay substance, disturbance also causes breakage in the bigger pieces, creating more particles.
So the trick is to NOT stir the water as much as possible.
I've tried cleaning flourite and adding it to the tank and not cleaning it and adding to the tank. Cleaning it is better and unlike what most people think, a little cleaning doesn't kill the nutrient values since you're going to dose your tank anyhow.
1. It's a lot easier to wash part of a bag of flourite then a bunch of bags worth of the stuff. So what I do is get a rectangular tubberware and fill it with half a bag worth of the stuff or whatever amount you feel is easy for you to handle and wash.
2. Take a hose with a spraybar and spray the stuff. Dump water into plants so there's no waste, as much of the water as possible excluding the flourite, you're basically just rinsing it. Continue to do this till you see that the water is a bit clearer. Took me only 7 washes. Spray it till it's about 3-5 inches from the surface of the substrate, no need to fill the whole tubberware.
3. Now put it into your empty tank. If you need more flourite, repeat steps 1 and 2. Flatten it out and put watever plants you want into it now.
4. Now to add water, the most important part IMO. Let it slowly go in, very slowly, a good trickle. Just enough and not to the point where the debris or substrate is kicked around a lot. When it's about 1 inch or so from the substrate, stop.
5. Leave it till the 1" of visible water seems clear, then once again, slowly fill it with water. Put it so the tube that the water is coming from as near to the substrate as possible. It is best to put the tube near a corner. Why? Less disturbance.
6. After filling it up, you can add an HOB with a sponge over the intake and a sponge or sponges inside the hob. Give it a few hours. Should be good. It'll take about a few days for the water to completely become clear, based on your filtering as well.
If you want to do the nonwash method, start from step #3.
However, it'll probably take longer for all the debris to settle.
Here are a few questions that you might have thought of from what I said:
Q: For #2 step, why do I have to stop at 3-5 inches? Why not just keep spraying it?
A: Because the point of washing it is to dump out the water with all the particles when there's the most particles washed up by the water. If you keep filling it past that point, you're just wasting water and not getting much of a difference. You just want to push those particles out before they sink back down into the substrate again.
Remember, flourite is a clay substance, if you continue to wash it, you'll continually get particles since the bigger pieces will continually break up into smaller pieces aka particles. The point is to wash it till it's decently clear, not all the way clear.
Q: For #5 step, why do I fill it up to 1" past the substrate and wait?
A: If you fill the whole tank up, particles that are still moving around remain moving around a lot longer since they can't settle to the bottom because there's a lot more room in the tank for the particles to move around in. The 1" method makes it so that the particles are a lot closer to the bottom and gives them less room to move in and therefore makes it easier to settle down.
This is what I do and I find it easy and useful. Never had a flourite issue.
Since you already filled it up with the thing, here's my advice on it:
1. Suck out all the water.
2. Do steps 4 through 6.