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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Last edited by AVN; 10-22-2013 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Wiped.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 07:39 PM
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use a diatom filter , or use seachem purigen in your filter , should clear it up in no time .please put up pics when you are finished , I would love to have 300g planted , what an awesome tank you are gonna have


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Why is my tank never big enough
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 07:52 PM
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I would put some seachem clarity in and let it settle for a day or two then drain and cap.
Edit: no water movement
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
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let it settle for a day or two then drain and cap.
Edit: no water movement
+1 and gotta luv helping hands


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If at first you don't succeed,,, keep kicking it
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2-75g planted, 3-55g planted, 110g w/30g sump, 2018 update returning to sanity (Nutz)
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 02:59 AM
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I think capping and planting with the water in it will be really difficult.

Maybe throw some sort of prefilter (old filter bag, aquarium sponge, whatever) over the end of a hose and siphon out as much water as you can. -assuming you have a gutter/yard/nearby drain where you can just get the siphon started and then walk away for a while.

once it's down to just a bit of soup in the bottom, you can probably cap it fairly easy, and plant and refill. (is a bit of a waste of water, though...)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys, I will run out and get some Purigen tomorrow. I have pics up, the link is in my signature.

I was hoping it wouldn't come to lowering the water, but I kind of knew that I had to do it! I'll try to clear the water and cap it using a slow underwater sand drip funnel, if that doesn't work I'll just drain it.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 03:05 PM
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Dude save don't go out and buy chemicals, save your money for plants.

Walk away and let it settle over night. Drain it down, Cap & plant.

I would drain it down to true bottom glass. Get the water down to 1" above the dirt. Them put you syphon hose in one corner, you'll pull out a little MTS with the water in the corner but eventually you'll get to the bottom. Once all the water's out refill that corner with MTS. Now cap.

Sure you can mess around bring to cap it with water and it will take 2Xs as long and be a royal mess...for what to save some water? Just deal with the drain down. It will be much faster and clean fix.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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It's been two days (I posted the night after it happened to see if it would settle a bit overnight) and it hasn't settled an inch. I guess I will just drain it, kind of sucks though, most of that water was already cycled because I brought it over from another tank.

I'll have to shut down the outdoor green algae tub in order to skip the cycling of this tank.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 04:03 PM
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It's been two days (I posted the night after it happened to see if it would settle a bit overnight) and it hasn't settled an inch. I guess I will just drain it, kind of sucks though, most of that water was already cycled because I brought it over from another tank.

I'll have to shut down the outdoor green algae tub in order to skip the cycling of this tank.

Anything floating after two days you don't want in there anyway. Water holds very little beneficial bacteria. The bacterial culture in the tank is on the glass and the surface 1/8" to 1/4" of MTS surface area.

So don't wipe down the inside glass. There will also bennifical bacteria on the plants you will put in the tank. The removal of the water really isn't an issue.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 09:24 PM
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If you are really concerned with saving the water, you could just drain the bulk of it off into buckets/tubs, and let it continue to settle while you cap and plant.

If you don't have containers big or numerous enough dig a hole in the ground/make a temporary pond out of sand bags or something, and stick a big tarp/trashbags in it.

And yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about cycled water. - the plants will handle a fair bit of filtration, and you can stick in some cheap quick-growing floaters to help with the excess in the beginning.

transplanting some of the sediment or filter material (not all, - you don't want your old tank to have to re-cycle) would be much more useful for kickstarting the bacterial colonies than using old water.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, thanks for the help. I put in a bunch of green water along with the sediment from cycled tanks. Tests show that ammonia is being cycled after just three days. I successfully transferred enough bacteria to skip starting the cycle in a 300g, sweet.

My issue is resolved! Please don't bump this thread!

hi
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 05:44 PM
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Establishing bacteria will have little to do with saving the water and more with allowing bacteria time to spread over surface areas, as noted above.

I have always been amused by the concept of saving water from tanks. Better to hang on to some established filter media, plants from an established tank, driftwood, anything with good surface area. All of that is infinitely easier for getting bacteria into a new tank.

Last edited by wheatiesl337; 10-25-2012 at 05:44 PM. Reason: grammars
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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I only wanted the water because it takes a long time to fill up a 300g with my teeny RO dispenser. It also helps that the water has ammonia in it.

As stated in my siggy thread, I used old gravel and filters from other tanks for bacteria, while relying on cycled water to avoid having to spend a long time refilling or dechlorinating.

hi
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