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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2004, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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does spagnum moss mold mean that it is about to grow?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Really, ya'll... does spagnum moss grow or just mold?????
help!!!!
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-2004, 08:53 PM
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Is it true Sphagnum Moss or Sphagnum Peat Moss? There is a difference.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-2004, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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good question Gdominy... the bag says "All Natural Terrarium Moss" and is not more specific. It was a PetCo buy, so maybe I need to scrap it and start again this weekend?
:?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2004, 04:19 PM
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the moss your bought from petco, has mostly been dried, so it is most likly dead. I used to use dry moss in my frog tank, and all it would do is mold. your best be is to find a good green house and try to buy moss from them.

hope this helps
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2004, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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thanks!!! i will do that!!
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2004, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris
does spagnum moss mold mean that it is about to grow?
I think it means that something is about to grow on it!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 01:32 AM
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Mosses that you get that have been wrapped like that can come back to life if they are less than a year old and have not been dyed... however, even though they are green, they might be over one year old. Those don't sell fast, and just get pushed from warehouse to warehouse until they sell. I saw a package that looked like it was designed in the fifties, fadded and still selling for top dollar???

Most bricks are sold fresh, but mostly dead. To get them growing, saturate them in fresh stream water or river water... not pond or tap. Pond water has tons of bad organisms that will destroy the water retentive moss. Tap contains chlorene and chloramine, which CAN NOT effectively be removed, except through consumption. Those dechlorinating chemicals are bad for terrarium plants, they cause a blackening rot on the plant leaves.

Resaturate every week, alowing them to totally dry between waterings, and keep them in curtain shaded light, or under a 25+ watt sun spectrum light. (Full range) After about two months you will see which ones are going to survive... keep those and turn the rest into substrate mix. The mosses don't need soil, they grow on themselves, (Air Plants). The older plant parts will die, but will retain needed water for the living parts of the plant.

Now for the bad news, they grow at a spectactular rate of four segments a month... (1/4") and don't grow much in winter, even if you keep it warm. They need a dormacy period to sustain life, similar to most ferns. Rhiozomes can survive for years without water and light... however, the number that do is small. (Rhizoid are what plants without roots have, mosses.)

http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/hcs300/liver2.htm
http://www.pitcherplant.com/care_sheets/mosses.html
http://www.mossacres.com/moss/
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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wow zurp, you are a font of information!
i have done nothing super special to this moss, except use it to cover the potting soil substrate. so, if some of them grow, that's cool and if they don't, hopefully it will keep the soil from falling into the water.
this is my school tank and will be physically moved twice between now and august, so i can't get too worked up about anything more than frog health at this point.
in the fall, the tank will be moved to my new classroom and will have cooler plants added. then the frogs will move to a "holding tank" for vacations, rather than moving the entire 30 gallon set up.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 02:23 AM
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Also, firebelly toads like slightly acidic soils. Mixing 50/50 spagnum and common yard top-soil will provide up to 7 years of lower PH. Most water is about 7 PH, they prefer 5.8 - 6.2, so do most mosses. (Pine sap provides the lower PH in nature, and sugars.) The down side is that acidic soils tend to get that unwanted BOG odor unless waterd and drained monthly... more like saturated. You can find sphagnum locally on the west side of tall objects. Hills, groups of trees, houses, buildings, barns, etc. Since there are no roots, you can pull whole sheets without effort. You may also find fir mosses and clump mosses on the north sides (Mostly shaded area.) of those same structures.

Mixing 33% cocoa fiber (Bed-A-Beast) and 33% sphagnum and 33% Top-Soil will make a light tank with high volume. Also, replace stone with fired clay pellets or stone-like plastic pellets. (Mix by volume not wt.)

Rinse and reuse the substrate, don't continually replace it. Rinse with untreated tap water, squeeze dry, allow it to bake in noon sun for one - two days, turn by hand two - three times a day until mostly dry, saturate in stream or river water, squeeze dry, and return the substrate to the tank. (Once - four times a year.) Replace any lost volume with a similar 33/33/33 mix, durring the, "saturate in stream or river water", phase.
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