H2O2 dip % ? - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 08:00 AM
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Hair algae is a pain and from time to time, I get an out brake as well. I does 5-7ml per 5 gallons straight into the tank. It sounds crazy but works really well. If the dose is right it should be completely gone in about 24-48hrs. Its amazing how quick it takes care of the issue. It will also kill bba and you still will need to trim the effected leaves.

Last edited by dp12man; 09-05-2011 at 04:27 PM.
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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dp12man View Post
I does 5-7ml per gallon straight into the tank.
Thanks for contributing the the thread.

Give us the tank specs, size, fish, inverts. If you keep fish & inverts in the tank any affect on them? Are you following up with a water change?

This can become one of those threads that might help fellow members.
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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 04:37 PM
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I edited my last post. The dose actually comes out to be about 1-1.4 ml per gallon.

I have a 40 gallon breeder. It has about 8-9 ottos and blue pearl shrimp.
Its been 4 days since my first treated and I have seen no affect on the livestock.
And as for any plant melting, just a few older leaves at the very bottom of my longer stems(6"+). Things I would normally trim away. But the first initial treatment seemed to get the hair algae in about two days.

I did a second dose last night and will see how it affects the tank.
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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 05:25 PM
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All algae, in my experience, will eventually fall to peroxide whether it is being dosed in the tank or dipped in an external. This is my experience and I use it quite frequently. If I even see discoloration on my plants I use peroxide and the fish love the immense oxegenation.


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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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It's been well over a week and I believe not only the hair Algae is gone , the plants are healthy too.

To recap:

I think the 10ml. per gal with a 1 hour dwell time, followed by a complete water change did solve the problem.

Would a 30 or 50% water change have been enough...Maybe?

The complete drain to expose the Algae, full strenght mist of H2O2, fill with water to dilute/flush, then 100% was most likely unneeded follow-up. However, I think either method would be safe.

This is far from definative scientic method

So, proceed in you own Aquarium with due caution. I do feel that using H2O2 is a safer/greener alternative to chemical warfare.

I encourage other that use H2O2 to add to the thread. Please include your dosing protocols. I think that would help the other members

Last edited by DogFish; 09-21-2011 at 03:32 PM.
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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 01:52 PM
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wkndracer - Are those planted tanks or breeder tanks? Curious about an observations on plants you might have had or Algae growth in breeding tanks.
sorry, as I missed the last of this post or would have replied sooner.

All my tanks are fully planted systems even the quarantine tank.
Algae in a spawn tank is another food source. Juveniles can be seen actively pecking/grazing on algae. BBS are the primary food starting out but diatom and other alga's are good even with Angels not just the LFABN Ancistrus I have routinely spawning here.
I don't achieve breeder level success rates in my tanks.
The fit survive. Spawns average about 50 or less each time.
My third generation in house standards and the current batch of DDSV are the first to exceed that range.

Questions have been raised on my favorite breeder site, bacteria Q's regarding my reduce survival rate as opposed to bare breeding tanks.

I believe predation and early difficulty with currents, finding food, simply getting lost takes more fry here than bacteria. These systems are a more natural setting, not natural habitat for angels per say but a natural manor of tanking. Once fully cycled a balance between plant growth and animal load is my tanking goal mainly. The fish and health of the systems I keep rely on the plant mass to remain balanced. Plants filter my water. Most of my tanks no longer even have whats considered by most to be proper filtration.

Predation accounts for over 90% I'm certain. Even the smallest snail will eat wigglers without dedicated parents to protect them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DogFish View Post
It's been well over a week and I believe not only the hair Algae is gone , the plants are healthy too.

To recap:

I think the 10ml. per gal with a 1 hour dwell time, followed by a complete water change did solve the problem.

Would a 30 or 50% water change have been enough...Maybe?

The complete drain to expose the Algae, full strenght mist of HO2O, fill with water to dilute/flush, then 100% was most likely unneeded follow-up. However, I think either method would be safe.

This is far from definative scientic method

So, proceed in you own Aquarium with due caution. I do feel that using HO2O is a safer/greener alternative to chemical warfare.

I encourage other that use HO2O to add to the thread. Please include your dosing protocols. I think that would help the other members
Found it interesting that you settled on 10ml/g. That level of treatment when I've posted it in the past has meet shocked response from the membership with fish involved. Being plants only maybe you're results will be better received.
Here's only one of Garrets threads.
http://www.angelfish.net/VBulletin/s...ad.php?t=16419
Hydrogen Peroxide and Perox-aid

he's the breeder that actually prompted me to look into higher dosing levels

DogFish you created a good thread here (imo)


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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-10-2011, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
....I don't achieve breeder level success rates in my tanks.The fit survive. Spawns average about 50 or less each time.
My third generation in house standards and the current batch of DDSV are the first to exceed that range.

Questions have been raised on my favorite breeder site, bacteria Q's regarding my reduce survival rate as opposed to bare breeding tanks.
Well of course your spawn success numbers are going to be lower because you keep a more natural Aquarium. The very reason fish have so many eggs is because there will naturally be massive losses. I used to have about 90+ sucess rate in artifically hatching out Angel eggs. at one point I lost very few fry. Insane amount of time invested, bare tanks, daily cleaning after feeding, small daily water changes. What I noticed was a I more defects surviving, that would have died off in a planted tank or with less diligence.

I my eyes you are raising a stronger healthier fish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
Found it interesting that you settled on 10ml/g.
OP in the thread I linked to a site were people were dosing 5ml per gallon and letting the H2O2 dilute in the tank and break down out of solution.
I felt doubling the dose with a short dwell time probably wasn't that radical especially because I flushed the tub with a full water change.

I am thinking that the full strenght mist of H2O2, hitting not only the Algae but all the surfaces in the tank is the way to go, I don't think a flush of all new water is needed.

I think if I had.have an outbreak in a planted tank with fish, I'd pull the fish and keep them in buckets of the drained water. drop my water all the way down, full strenght mist of H2O2 on every surface. Then return the water & fish...with maybe a 20% water change. The reason - using a spray bottle one can get more HO2O in the tank that one might think pretty fast



Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
DogFish you created a good thread here (imo)
Thanks but, to really be a great thread we need more data, and feedback from people like you that use H2O2 on a regular basis.

Last edited by DogFish; 09-21-2011 at 03:33 PM.
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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-10-2011, 03:02 AM
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yes 30 to 50% is fine for WC after dosing your tank. I mean once the bond is broken at the molecular level peroxide turns into water and oxygen... You just can't go wrong with that and it kills algae to boot!


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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-10-2011, 04:52 AM
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Did a H2O2 dip a few days ago. 15ml/G for 15 minutes. Removed BBA from Blyxa Japonica without harm to the plants.

Keep in mind that while light does eventually break down H2O2, it takes days of full sunlight to do so. Aquarium lighting will not remove excess in any timely fashion, nor will leaving lights on affect the efficiency of a treatment. After the easy stuff like bacteria, mulm, and algae are oxidized, any remaining H2O2 will continue slowly reacting with plants and livestock; unless removed by a water change.

3ml/G is generally considered safe for livestock as an in-tank dose, with no water change. But the actual safe/effective dose is highly dependent on tank conditions. For example, 15ml/G with no water change would be harmful in a very clean tank. But add that to a tank with pea-soup greenwater, and it will be so quickly consumed in reaction with the algae, that the livestock and plants will be completely unaffected (as well as some portion of the algae).

So for in-tank treatments, I sometimes go above 3ml/G if soon followed up with a large water change. Or if I'm applying it as a spot treatment to something it vigorously reacts with, meaning a significant portion of it is immediately consumed.
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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 03:38 PM
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Sometimes I have hair algea and use H2o2 straight from the bottle. First I drain 50-75% of the water. Then I turn off the filter and any other equipment that moves water. I wait a minute or two. Then I use 3 to 4 ml/per gallon and deliver via a syringe (60 ml) to slowly place the H2o2 where it needs to be. I wait 10 minutes and add fresh water and use a conditioner. It s dead the next day & ready for hand removal. I usually have to do this 3-4 weeks & then I am done. Don't know why but this happens to one tank on ocassion which is what gets me. I think it could be a Co2 thing but I am guessing

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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 08:08 PM
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3mL/gallon killed all my nerite sails and E. Najas plant after 1 dose. Has anyone tried the 10mL/gallon with nerites and najas?

I've had good results at 1.5mL/gallon but it was without nerites and Najas, lol.


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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 08:40 PM
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I killed BBA with 1mL/G. Dosed 10 mL in the water column and 10mL into the substrate with a pipette. The whole tank started bubbling. Did this 3 night in a row then did a regular 25% water change. That was over a yr ago and I never seen BBA again (fingers crossed). BTW - I didn't use OTC H2O2. I bought 35% food grade and diluted it with distilled water 1:11. There are stabilizers in the OTC that I didn't want to put in the tank.
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-15-2011, 10:44 PM
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sorry to hijack your thread, but i have a quick question:

why cant we use Ho2o along with EI dosing? i mean if it helps the plant and fish so why not. i have read that Ho2o evaporate fast from the water then why do we need to change the water after adding it? cant we just use this 3x a week and then do the 50% water change?

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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 06:59 PM
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Dosing H2O2 as part of the weekly regiment. I feel I'm not qualified to provide suggestions regarding this as a practice but like I said:
Quote:
once the bond is broken at the molecular level peroxide turns into water and oxygen
So... knowing that I don't understand why it couldn't be used but animals have died because of use.

I can't wait to see some of the responses to this question. That is a great hijacking and may even warrant its own thread for discussion.

Good question happi.


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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:39 PM
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H2O2 oxidizes (destroys) all organic matter indiscriminately. Algae just gets the worst of it because it has a high surface-to-volume ratio, and little to protect against H2O2.

Higher organisms have protective measures to slow down H2O2. Plants have wax coatings. Fish have slime and antioxidants. But those protections aren't perfect. Even chipping away at those protections isn't justified unless there's some actual benefit.

If there is no parasitic algae, there is no benefit for plants.

And if fish already have ample O2, and no diseases that may be cured by H2O2, then there is no benefit for fish.

Fish gills are delicate. Damage may lead to scarring that's cumulative over the life of a fish. If you destroy 1% of their gill capacity every now and then to knock out the rare algae infestation, it's no big deal. But if you turn it into a regular ritual, you may noticeably shorten the life of the fish. And it may succumb to transient events that would otherwise be survivable (low O2, high CO2, diseases).

Every substance that acts as an effective algaecide is in some way destructive or toxic, to all living things, to at least some degree. That's why preventing algae through proper tank conditions is preferable to killing algae.
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