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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Help I feel stuck!

Hey Guys I've been running this tank for about a month already and recently I started dosing with thriveC and i started getting i would say filamentous algae maybe hair algae but its not super green its more of a brownish color as you see on the pict and some green spot on a few plants.

Setup:
Tank: UNS 5N 4 Gallon
Co2 Not yet will start in the next 2 weeks
light: nano fluval 3.0 schedule below
filter: azoo 10 HOB
1 betta fish and 1 nerite snail

I do about 1-2 water changes per week since this started I cut back on the dosing added a few amano shrimps that didnt o well . Basically I feel stuck in finding out the right balance and wanted to get your feedback. My last resort would be flourish excel but im doing everything possible not to use it

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 09:53 PM
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Did you fishless cycle?

PH, KH, GH, readings of both your tank and change water source? Nitrate and phosphate readings?
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Did you fishless cycle?

PH, KH, GH, readings of both your tank and change water source? Nitrate and phosphate readings?
phosphate N/A don't have a way of reading
Nitrate 0 two days ago

In tank
ph:7.4 kh: 40 gh: closer to 150


tap water
ph:7.8 kh: 40 gh: closer to 150


It was a gift to me so it was fish cycle and im doing my best to get everything to work because the hobby has grown a lot in me.
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 11:48 PM
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Nitrate shouldn't be zero, are you doing the test correctly, if it's liquid api kit you have to shake the heck out of bottle #2 for 30 seconds before you add those drops.

I have the same stuff in my tank and it seems to be helping by me increasing my dosage of phosphate, flow is also important so make sure you have no dead zones, I'm not real good with ferts and dosing, it looks like staghorn to me which has the same root causes as green fuzz algae, hair algae thread algae which is see attached Pic from Dennis website, if your plants aren't growing algae will. https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/...gae-types.html[ATTACH][/ATTACH]Click image for larger version

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 12:22 AM
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All of the above, but I'd just dial my lighting back to 50% for no more than 6-hours a day until you get your CO2 dialed-in. Keep dosing according to directions. Give it a few weeks after dialing the CO2 in and then report. You are pretty early in the game to be considered stable yet. Try to get the test kits needed, as above, and keep the tank and filter clean. I find the Salifert nitrate kit much easier to read than others.
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 08:24 AM
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And remember this, don't make to many changes thinking something isn't working as without c02 or even with results aren't instant, takes about a month without c02 to see a difference good or bad, with about 1.5-2 weeks sometimes longer

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 09:34 AM
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Both these^^^^^^

As stated, just turn your light down. Make that change no other, dosing and water changes just as it is now. Give it a couple weeks + and see if algae starts to go away.

Basically if think you were giving plants a bit more fert than they really needed being tank is new and at same time giving tank way to much light. I would just cut intensity to 50% and leave photoperiod same but shorten duration of highest intensity, 2.5-3hr ramp up morn, same for ramp down in eve. Id also bump up blue to 12-15% across middle.

Also get needed test kits.

Last edited by DaveKS; 12-06-2019 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Typo
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post
Both these^^^^^^



As stated, just turn your light down. Make that change no other, dosing and water changes just as it is now. Give it a couple weeks + and see if algae starts to go away.



Basically if think you were giving plants a bit more fert than they really needed being tank is new and at same time giving tank way to much light. I would just cut intensity to 50% and leave photoperiod same but shorten duration of highest intensity, 2.5-3hr ramp up morn, same for ramp down in eve. Id also bump up blue to 12-15% across middle.



Also get needed test kits.
Here's mine, I've been running this for a week and haven't seen any increase in algae, I dint run c02 either, my lights on for a lonnnnnng time though so I'll probably shorten the photo period if I see any increase in algae but leave intensity the same, sometimes not enough light can cause things as well, as if plants aren't thriving algae takes hold. Click image for larger version

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 10:34 AM
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But yeah to much light will definitely cause algae, blue light is especially bad for hair algae with the fluval 3.0, I'm running 30% for 3 hours on my program but I haven't seen any increase in anything but it's only been a week. Also with plants you can get algae with not enough ferts, if nitrate bottoms out you'll get bga, hair algae etc etc, with thrive c it's engineered to be used like lean EI/lean PPS pro, haven't deciphered the difference yet but I will say to make it simple, it's meant to be dosed multiple times a week for nutrient consistency, if your nutrients drop out for example: potassium then plants won't uptake other nutrients, plants need specific nutrients to uptake others ( like the human body won't absorb calcium without vitamin D) having too less of nutrients is worse than having to much as a consistent nutrient level is mandatory, so say your tank calls for 6 ml instead of doing 3 pumps (1 pump is 2 ml) in one day and not dosing again for the week your nutrients are going to bottom and cause algae, so do 1 pump 3 x weekly instead on 3 pumps 1 time to keep nutrients in the water.

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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys!

Thanks all for the feedback. I do have a master kit I will order phosphate shortly.

I am running my lights for about 5hrs and just reduced the intensity to 50%.

I will continue to dose with ThriveC but i think i'll have to get a dripper because I soon as i do 1 full pump I even aim for less the next day the algae on the moss turns into a bush.

I'll report back in the next two weeks or so once i have co2 running which i believe by next friday ill have it set up.

Again thank you and if anyone else wants to chip in feel free
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilioepo View Post
Hey guys!



Thanks all for the feedback. I do have a master kit I will order phosphate shortly.



I am running my lights for about 5hrs and just reduced the intensity to 50%.



I will continue to dose with ThriveC but i think i'll have to get a dripper because I soon as i do 1 full pump I even aim for less the next day the algae on the moss turns into a bush.



I'll report back in the next two weeks or so once i have co2 running which i believe by next friday ill have it set up.



Again thank you and if anyone else wants to chip in feel free
You have a 4 gallon tank, that's about 3 gallons of water, you should be dosing about 0.25 ml 3 x weekly not 2ml (1 pump) , so you would do like a lil spritz not a full pump, but yes go to a pharmacy and get a syringe they use for giving kids medicines, they are about $1.00 and dose 0.25 ml 3 x weekly this won't change with c02 either unless you start seeing your nutrients dropping out, like do a test, on water change day after tanks refilled do a tank water test only for nitrate write down the reading , then add 0.25 ml which is approx 2ppm nitrate, wait an hour and retest, so say your tanks nitrate is 5 with no ferts added, after you add ferts it should be around 7 ppm, retest again 48 hours later and see if your nitrates are back to zero or way lower than what you recorded after adding ferts.

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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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You have a 4 gallon tank, that's about 3 gallons of water, you should be dosing about 0.25 ml 3 x weekly not 2ml (1 pump) , so you would do like a lil spritz not a full pump, but yes go to a pharmacy and get a syringe they use for giving kids medicines, they are about $1.00 and dose 0.25 ml 3 x weekly this won't change with c02 either unless you start seeing your nutrients dropping out, like do a test, on water change day after tanks refilled do a tank water test only for nitrate write down the reading , then add 0.25 ml which is approx 2ppm nitrate, wait an hour and retest, so say your tanks nitrate is 5 with no ferts added, after you add ferts it should be around 7 ppm, retest again 48 hours later and see if your nitrates are back to zero or way lower than what you recorded after adding ferts.

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ok so from the api test kit i have two nitrate bottles 1 & 2 from which one do I add the 2ppm from?

I will be changing my water on sunday so ill start the test then

I understood the rest so I will apply asap
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 08:00 PM
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The two nitrate reagents in the API test kit are not for adding nitrate to the tank. They are only for adding to the test sample of water in the test tube. The 2ppm of nitrate comes from the .25ml of fertilizer. You will use the API test kit to determine this. Follow the directions of the API test kit precisely when testing for nitrate. The shaking and time of shaking.
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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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The two nitrate reagents in the API test kit are not for adding nitrate to the tank. They are only for adding to the test sample of water in the test tube. The 2ppm of nitrate comes from the .25ml of fertilizer. You will use the API test kit to determine this. Follow the directions of the API test kit precisely when testing for nitrate. The shaking and time of shaking.
ohhh ok ok got it I was a bit confused by the adding nitrate part. thanks
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 09:52 PM
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ohhh ok ok got it I was a bit confused by the adding nitrate part. thanks
Will also add that on those 2 nitrate test reagent bottles you need to vigorously shake them, especially bottle 2 for a couple minutes or the test will always read very low. Think of it like that bottle salad dressing you see has separated into layers setting in fridge and to get it to taste right you have to get it mixed back up so ratio of ingredients comes out of bottle correctly.

If you done a bunch tests (20+) without shaking that bottle the ratio of chemicals in there will now be off. Dont be surprised if once you start doing test correctly it always reads higher than it actually is.

Let us know what reading is after you run test correctly.

That API master kit is actually anything but. Has everything needed to monitor cycling of a new tank, ammonia and nitrite the main ones, but GH, KH and phosphate tests are also needed for monitoring your tank long term.
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