This is just coming from my experience, but my recommendation (which will probably be contrary to about 95% of all the other users on this forum) would be to not even bother with daily water parameter checks... Just a baseline check to make sure you're not trying to grow plants in hostile parameters should be sufficient, which is basically pH GH (and questionably KH). Nitrates are helpful if you have voracious plants that require a lot of nitrogen, otherwise many plants will grow (even thrive) in low nitrogen environments. I wouldn't even bother with the other nutrients like K, Cu, Fe. If in doubt, just dose it... When dosing K in large amounts you're supposed to add Mg since high concentrations of K can interfere with Mg absorption IIRC.
As you already alluded to, it really comes down to balance. Unfortunately, it's usually very difficult to figure out what exactly is off balance once things are already off balance, since most don't diligently recording their tank parameters prior to their tank being overrun.
Just from eyeballing your picture, it looks like your plants never really took off; but I honestly can't say with 100% certainty since I don't know how long you've had the tank running. I'm surmising this because of the lack of horizontal growth I'm seeing in your eleocharis parvula. That stuff grows like a weed when in optimal conditions. At the end of the day, no/poor plant growth --> algae problems. Lots of things can cause plants to grow poorly including insufficient lighting, insufficient lighting/CO2 ratio, insufficient nutrient supplementation, and poor maintenance/plant care.
From what I've experienced and seen countless times on the forums, algae crashes seem to happen after a period of poor maintenance/upkeep, e.g. getting lazy on the water changes, not vacuuming your substrate, overfeeding your tank, not pruning dead plant matter, letting your filter get clogged, etc. Seems to me it's a buildup of organics and detritus that ultimately leads to an algae bloom, which could have been prevented with better maintenance/upkeep. Not sure if this applies to you since I don't know how old your tank is, but if you think that's the problem, then just clean your tank and restart with more diligence. No need to really change anything else unless you don't think you can keep up with the maintenance regimen or if the plants really just aren't growing.
For now, I'd recommend you just do (1) serial 50-80% water changes daily for the next 1-2 weeks after removing all of the algae you can see. Make sure your water is basically clear at 3 inch depth when you pour some into a white bowl. You can skip water changes if the water looks crystal clear with the 3in check, but the moment you see discoloration you should do a water change. (2) Remove all plants or leaves of plants that are struggling e.g. covered in algae, have holes in them, are stunted. Healthy, growing plants will do wonders in algae inhibition. (3) Make sure your filters are working properly, but don't power wash the biologic layer since you don't want your tank to go through another cycle. (4) Redo your CO2 titration so that you can achieve max CO2 solubility without overly stressing your fish/fauna, or a pH drop of ~1.0 from start to end of dissolution, or some level of CO2 that you are comfortable with. You can go overboard with the water changes, but make small changes in the CO2 until you feel like you've reached the limit your comfortable with. (5) for fertilization (which is absolutely necessary if you inject CO2), go for either a lean dosing approach via the ADA method or go for EI or PPS pro per Tom Barr's website, following the instructions to a tee. There's over a decade (possibly decades) of work that went into the development and optimization of those dosing methods, so it doesn't make much sense IMO to try and reinvent the wheel.
At the end of the day, what's going to make the most difference is getting your plants to grow. That comes down to giving them the proper, stable environment to grow in and paying attention to your tank.
As an aside, the only real metric I follow nowadays in my tanks is pH and TDS, and I grow plants just to sell on the forums. I don't even use my pH probe anymore, I just eyeball with my drop checker and how my fish and plants do in the tank. In the end, what I've found most important is attention to detail, daily monitoring/maintenance, and overall consistency.
For more really helpful, summarized information controlling algae in your planted tanks, I would really recommend you give Dennis Wong's website a peruse (as @OVT
already linked you to). His tanks are a testament to his technique and has been really helpful in my planted tank adventures. His section on algae control is a good read IMO: https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/control-algae.html
It provides a good primer and tees you up nicely to learn about the other aspects of algae control including lighting, CO2, dosing, etc.