Blue-green algae? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Blue-green algae?

Two days after I started using Thrive, I noticed a blue-green color carpeting my pfs. Now I see a pretty good coating of the same stuff on a plant. Suggestions?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 05:14 PM
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Use a product called Chemi-Clean. Be sure to add air stones to keep it well oxygenated during treatment.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:00 AM
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Seachem Excel would be my recommendation as it helps the plants and is also an algaecide depending on what size tank you have just follow the directions on the bottle and you should be okay

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:25 AM
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Blue green algae is a bacteria and algae. Excel won't do anything. Erythromycin works but chemi-clean is cheaper, works as well and won't affect good bacteria

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:35 AM
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It does look like blue green algae to me, though I've only seen it on substrate before. If you used excel, it would have to be at a plant-melting overdose, because BGA is a cyanobacteria colony, not algae. You can treat it with erythromicin, but might experience an ammonia spike as the erythromycin kills a good deal of gram positive bacteria species and might wipe out both the BGA and some normal flora (A lot of nucleotides and protein in the water = a lot of ammonia). You could also potentially treat with copper, but that will potentially kill EVERYTHING in your tank, and thus isn't worth it.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:40 AM
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UltraLife- Blue-green slime stain remover in combination with an airstone works great. Check out this product on Amazon and read the many positive reviews. Using this approach is an easy way to get rid of the blue-green algae. To prevent it from coming back, you need good circulation in your aquarium and some surface agitation. Using the right ration of fertilzers, through PPS-pro, helps too.

FWIW- blue green algae is not an algae, but instead a bacteria (Cyanobacteria). That's why using Excel will not work.

Lake Erie is prone to these blue-green algae blooms near Toledo Ohio. This is due to a combination fertilizers coming from the Maumee River, that has a massive agriculture drainage area, along with shallow lake depths and limited surface turbidity.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by steveo View Post
UltraLife- Blue-green slime stain remover in combination with an airstone works great. Check out this product on Amazon and read the many positive reviews. Using this approach is an easy way to get rid of the blue-green algae. To prevent it from coming back, you need good circulation in your aquarium and some surface agitation. Using the right ration of fertilzers, through PPS-pro, helps too.

FWIW- blue green algae is not an algae, but instead a bacteria (Cyanobacteria). That's why using Excel will not work.

Lake Erie is prone to these blue-green algae blooms near Toledo Ohio. This is due to a combination fertilizers coming from the Maumee River, that has a massive agriculture drainage area, along with shallow lake depths and limited surface turbidity.
I had this problem last week. Everything was going great, and then I added some Tropica specialized fertilizer because my nitrates kept coming up zero. Two days after dosing with the Nitrate /Phosphate combo I got an immediate BGA outbreak. It was quick, took over the entire aquarium in a couple days. I ordered the Ultralife BGA remover, and paid extra for expedited delivery. Today is day 3 , and it's all gone !! I kept my carbon in the canister filter, and just added an airstone for 2 days. Shut the C02 off, and reduced the lights. There are no ingredients listed on the Ultalife, but it says there is no antibiotics, so ?? All I can tell you is it works. All my fish, plants ,and shrimp are doing well, no problems. I highly recommend :-) Best of luck to you.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 10:05 AM
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Oh my fault on the excel, im still new to the different types of algae had no idea it was bacterial learn something new everyday, sorry op for the mis recommendation

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I assume hyd peroxide wouldn't work because it's actually bacteria?
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FishEggs View Post
Use a product called Chemi-Clean. Be sure to add air stones to keep it well oxygenated during treatment.
This is your cure.


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Growing is not that difficult.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 08:14 PM
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I assume hyd peroxide wouldn't work because it's actually bacteria?

Hydrogen peroxide (H202) works like a charm - I've used it several times over the years.
The method to use is specific - turn off filtration, & reduce water level if need be, to allow you to dose the H202 directly onto the cyanobacteria at close range, using a plastic syringe or test kit pipette.
Leave the filtration off for at least 1/2 an hour after dosing to allow the H202 to do its work. You'll see the oxygen bubbles adhering to the dosed cyano & then slowly lifting off, to rise to the surface.


Depending on how much cyano you have, you may need to do the dosing again over 2 days or more to get rid of it all.
The day after dosing, the cyano should have disappeared.
The primary approach for preventing it from coming back is to improve your tank cleansing routine (e.g. substrate vacuuming), and improve the water circulation within the tank, especially in the lower tank areas where the cyano generally develops & spreads.
A power bar, or a small circulation pump would be good.
Your fish & beneficial bacteria will not at all be affected so long as you limit the dosing to a reasonable quantity at a time, depending on the water volume of your tank, and of course don't spray it directly at any fish. It dissipates harmlessly very quickly.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discuspaul View Post
Hydrogen peroxide (H202) works like a charm - I've used it several times over the years.
The method to use is specific - turn off filtration, & reduce water level if need be, to allow you to dose the H202 directly onto the cyanobacteria at close range, using a plastic syringe or test kit pipette.
Leave the filtration off for at least 1/2 an hour after dosing to allow the H202 to do its work. You'll see the oxygen bubbles adhering to the dosed cyano & then slowly lifting off, to rise to the surface.


Depending on how much cyano you have, you may need to do the dosing again over 2 days or more to get rid of it all.
The day after dosing, the cyano should have disappeared.
The primary approach for preventing it from coming back is to improve your tank cleansing routine (e.g. substrate vacuuming), and improve the water circulation within the tank, especially in the lower tank areas where the cyano generally develops & spreads.
A power bar, or a small circulation pump would be good.
Your fish & beneficial bacteria will not at all be affected so long as you limit the dosing to a reasonable quantity at a time, depending on the water volume of your tank, and of course don't spray it directly at any fish. It dissipates harmlessly very quickly.
Agree with everything said above. Has worked for me without any adverse affects on the fauna.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you everyone! I'll let you know how it goes!!

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update - Chemi-clean worked like a charm! All gone!
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 03:01 PM
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Glad the Chemi Clean worked out for you. I still think I'd go with the $2 bottle of H2O2 from a dozen local stores than the $12 specialty product I have to order.
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