Adjusting ferts - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Adjusting ferts

Battling algae again. Wondering if it is possible to overdose and if that would affect the growth of algae much? PH is around 6-7, co2 at 30ppm (lime green dc). I tested for KNO3 and there was alot in the water column, between 50-100ppmThe tank has sort of high light but is also deep. aprox 45 cm to substrate and running 4x 54w T5HO tubes. Here is what it looks like:

I mix nutrient bottles weekly and dose 1/7 of the bottle daily. So with rotala butterfly calculator i get 20.33 g KNO3, 3.10 g KH2PO4 and 10.0g trace+b. How much should i lower my dosages for the algae to stop growing?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 09:04 PM
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An over abundance of nutrients is definitely a cause of algae..

Think of the fertz as food for your plants AND food for algae..

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 09:21 PM
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Start with checking if you're providing too much light. That's usually the case.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
Start with checking if you're providing too much light. That's usually the case.
That's what I would do. Too much light really drives algae.

Excessive nutrients from dosing is a lot different IMO than the nutrients that are in the tank from organic decomposition.

If using an EI type dosing schedule than plenty of tanks have excessive ferts with no algae.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Should i remove the reflectors and see what happens? I have 8 hours light per day, split into 2 periods
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:14 PM
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Keep in mind with any alteration you make, it will take a few weeks to see any changes. Personally, I would cut back the light duration to 7 hours first. How long has the tank been set up?

Looks like stag horn algae, and I personally have only had staghorn during the first few months, but it always shows up for me.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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It has been established for pretty much exactly one year now. I never really had any luck with ferts so i have just been trying to adjust without luck. Same with CO2 (scared to gas fish)
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:55 PM
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Hmm... Think about something:

You run your tank using 3 fertilizers - N, P, and Fe/Traces. Ok, four - add the 30 ppm CO2.
Do you think that an aquarium is more than that?

Try to lower the N to about 20. And adjust the P to about 1. Change big amounts of water. That is what EI suggests - N between 5 -20, P between 0.5 - 2.0, and big water changes. Adjust all other fertilizers according to EI.
What do you think it will happen? Here it is again: Do you think that an aquarium is more than that?

Go back to basics. For example find out what is "clean water". It would help to learn how the Japanese run their planted tanks.

A good idea is also to make sure that the test kits you are using actually work. Cheap kits can show you only a trend, but don't believe absolute values too much.

And that is how it goes... Not exactly the way it appears on an internet forum.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 12:45 AM
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4x 54w T5HO is a lot. Two bulbs is more than enough. You can raise the lights up 2-3 feet from the substrate.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niko View Post
Hmm... Think about something:

You run your tank using 3 fertilizers - N, P, and Fe/Traces. Ok, four - add the 30 ppm CO2.
Do you think that an aquarium is more than that?

Try to lower the N to about 20. And adjust the P to about 1. Change big amounts of water. That is what EI suggests - N between 5 -20, P between 0.5 - 2.0, and big water changes. Adjust all other fertilizers according to EI.
What do you think it will happen? Here it is again: Do you think that an aquarium is more than that?

Go back to basics. For example find out what is "clean water". It would help to learn how the Japanese run their planted tanks.

A good idea is also to make sure that the test kits you are using actually work. Cheap kits can show you only a trend, but don't believe absolute values too much.

And that is how it goes... Not exactly the way it appears on an internet forum.
Not sure exactly where you are going with this but yes i understand there are more factors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
4x 54w T5HO is a lot. Two bulbs is more than enough. You can raise the lights up 2-3 feet from the substrate.
The lights are built into the hood so i cannot raise them. Using only 2x54w with reflectors a better idea? Or maybe 4x54w without?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 01:30 PM
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try a tds meter or should i say tds reading to determine water change, it helped for me. its worth considering

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fluval fresh and plant 2.0 36"
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazdaq View Post
The lights are built into the hood so i cannot raise them. Using only 2x54w with reflectors a better idea? Or maybe 4x54w without?
2 bulbs with reflector should be fine.


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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 03:14 PM
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You are actually doing a great job of keeping out the algae.
You have aprox 3x the amount of light needed for your tank.
This is where I got that number from.
I had a 30L tank(91cm x 30.5cm x 42cm long) and after adding the sub that made it
aproximately 40 cm from the sub for the light.
This tank grew vals just fine with two 91 cm bulbs of T8 with no reflectors.
See if you can just use two of the bulbs. Some fixtures will allow that.
Two bulbs of T5 instead of the T8 that I had in a tank of similar height and yours have reflectors...I think that two will be enough.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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I have removed one of the lights and set the tank on a 6 hour photoperiod. Going to keep it like this for a week or two and see what happens.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Bought a cheap TDS meter and got it today. Tested my tap and it was around 100. My dwarf puffer tank around 160 and my 240 L had 250-260 ppm. The test on the big tank was after a waterchange 50% yesterday and added macros this morning. What are your threshholds for waterchanges? Also, as my plants absorb nutrients in the water column you should see a small decrease in TDS?
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