starting a 10 gallon and have some questions - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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starting a 10 gallon and have some questions

Hey. Ok so the tank is cycled. And i have
-2x20w 6500k bulbs with high lumens (isn't lumens more important than watts?)
-2" layer of flourite
-aquaclear filter which i dont like, is there anyway a fluval canister filter would work? because i see they are around 125gph while the standard eclipse hoods come with 150gph.
-nutrafin "plant gro" liquid additive (not sure if this is any good)
-nutrafin yeast c02
-do i need a heater? tank has been staying at about 75 degrees throughout the day with lighting at 14 hours or so.
Please answer some of my questions, thankyou! Comments would also be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-02-2006, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
Hey. Ok so the tank is cycled. And i have
-2x20w 6500k bulbs with high lumens (isn't lumens more important than watts?)
You are correct, lumens is more important that watts. Although the amount of watts that a bulb draws is an indicator of how much light a bulb can usually produce, there is no definative corralation between wattage and lumen output, especially when you're comparing different styles of bulbs. A 96-watt compact flourescent bulb will put out more light (lumens) than a 100-watt incandescent bulb, and a 70-watt metal halide bulb will put out more light than a 96-watt CF bulb.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
-2" layer of flourite
Flourite is definately a good subrate choice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
-aquaclear filter which i dont like, is there anyway a fluval canister filter would work? because i see they are around 125gph while the standard eclipse hoods come with 150gph.
HOB (hand on the back) filters aren't that bad for small tanks as long as you keep surface turbulance to an absolute minimum to prevent C02 outgassing. I know what you mean about not liking the aquaclear though. I had an Aquaclear 150 on my old 10-gallon and the current was so strong that I couldn't plant anything immediately in front of the filter outlet. You can use a canister filter on a 10-gallon, just make sure that you install a ball valve so you can throttle back the water flow. Most canisters have quite a lot of power for a little 10-gallon, so you don't want all your plants and fish blowing around all over the place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
-nutrafin "plant gro" liquid additive (not sure if this is any good)
As I understand it, the Nutrifin stuff you're referring to supplies all your NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) macro-nutrients, and that should be good to begin with, but ulimately long term you're going to want to dose N, P, and K individually as you learn more about your tanks nutrient consumption and how it's balanced. Adding an "all-in-one" doesn't really give you much in the way of an opportunity to balance things.
The Seachem flourish line of fertilizers are available in individual supplments for N, K, and P, or you can order dry bulk fertilizers from http://www.gregwatson.com and mix your own. That's by far the best, cheapest way to go in the long term.
You're also going to need some sort of trace fertilizer too. Again, Seachem Flourish has traces available, or you can get them in the form of Plantex CSM+B from Gregwatson.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
-nutrafin yeast c02
Yeast based C02 (also refered to as DIY C02) is a good way to go with a 10-gallon tank. The nutrifin system is pretty good (the C02 ladder anyway) but you'll have much better luck with it, and have to maintain it less, if you ditch the tiny little container that they gave you, and use a 2-liter Soda bottle instead. You can make a much bigger mix, which will last longer, and be more consistant. If you need more C02 you can also suppliment the Yeast C02 with Seachem's Flourish Excel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anjay
-do i need a heater? tank has been staying at about 75 degrees throughout the day with lighting at 14 hours or so.
Depending on where you live in the world, and the temperature of the room your aquarium is in, and the requirements of your fish, no you may never need a heater. If you place gets colder in the winter months or you decide to keep warm-water fish, then a heater will probably be necessary.

As for lighting, I would consider throttling back the amount of time that it is left on. 8-10 hours a day I would think would be fine. I have my lights on from 3PM - 11PM so I can enjoy the tank when I get home from work. Leaving the lights on longer more does not equal more plant growth, and does not compensate for inadequate lighting. It does however, invite unwanted algae.

If you haven't done so already, I strongly recommend you read the guide at www.rexgrigg.com, it has a lot of useful information for beginners. Once you've read it, read it again, and then ask more questions.


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