New to Planted: 10 gal dosing? Advice? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-18-2005, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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New to Planted: 10 gal dosing? Advice?

I have a 10 gallon planted tank that's leaking. So, before I begin dosing I need take apart my set-up and replant in a different empty 10 gal tank I have on hand.

All seems to be working well, but I'd like to begin a dosing routine. Based on the information below, does anyone have any recommendations? I plan to purchase products from Greg Watts but don't have a clue where to begin.

This tank is located at work -so nothing happens to it on Saturdays and Sundays.

All input is appreciated!


----------------------------------------------------------------
10g (L20" x W10" x H12")

1” layer of peat moss, 3" of flourite with light gravel topping (75/25)

2 WPG by two 10W Pink screw-in Mini Compact fluorescent bulbs by colormax, in original incandescent light hood, timed for 11 hours daily (Approx. 6500k equivalent light output of 50 watts)

Hagen Aquaclear-mini/20 HOB with foam sponge and 2 Biomax Inserts to expand biological capacity. I keep water level high so HOB filter flow not splashing and reducing the C02

DIY C02 DEVICE USING POP BOTTLE: Diffusion through filter intake using in-line check valve. Remixing formula every 2 weeks by funnelling 2 cups of sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of yeast, and 1 teaspoon of baking soda. The baking soda buffers the pH and keep the reaction rate more steady. Bubbler on timer for night time to drive off residual C02

50W heater with temperature of 81° F

Flora: Anubias barteri var. nana, Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown", Cryptocoryne wendtii "green", Cryptocoryne x willisii, Microsorum pteropus

Fauna:
5 gro-lite tetras
4 neon tetras
2 panda cory’s
1 Otto Dwarf Sucker

Flourish fertilizer tabs deep into the substrate and dosing water with Hagen’s Plant Gro (NPK 0.6-0.3-2.4).

Ammonia = 0.5
N03 = 5ppm.
kH = 90 ppm
pH = 6.2
C02 = 94.6 (they say this number is inaccurate and caused by the peat moss)
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2005, 09:53 PM
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A Typical Dosing Routine
1/4 teaspoon of KNO3 Potassium Nitrate 3-4x a week (every other day)
1/16th-1/32nd teaspoon of KH2PO4 Mono Potassium Phosophate 3-4x a week (every other day)
Traces added on off days as the macro nutrients, so 3x a week, 5mls each time.
SeaChem Equilibrium 1/8 teaspoon after water change.


So the aquarist dose only 3 things really, KNO3, KH2PO4 on the day of the water change then every other day there after, traces of the off day till the next week rolls around. Do a 50-70% water change, dose the macro nutrients back, add the traces the following day and repeat. You can slowly back off this amount till you notice plant growth differences to tailor your individual tank’s need, but all you will do is waste some macros and traces by adding more than the plant needs. You should give each change in your routine about 3 weeks before making another change. This will take time but is worth the time spent. It will not cause algae unless you over look something, namely CO2 or under dosing KNO3 which both of these account for about 95% of all algae issues. If you focus on the plant’s needs, the algae will no longer grow. I hope this helps and ends much frustration for the aquatic gardener so then aquarist may focus on aquascaping and growing plants rather than asking how to kill algae. The aquarist does not have to stick with merely a weekly routine with the water changes or accept 50% as their volumes. This will level off the dosing at 2x the dosed amount so that nothing will ever be overdosed beyond 2x the target range.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2005, 09:55 PM
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BTW, Nice looking tomato clown you've got there. Regards,
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2005, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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THANK YOU so very much!!! This is awesome!
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2005, 06:25 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by actioncia
A Typical Dosing Routine
1/4 teaspoon of KNO3 Potassium Nitrate 3-4x a week (every other day)
1/16th-1/32nd teaspoon of KH2PO4 Mono Potassium Phosophate 3-4x a week (every other day)
Traces added on off days as the macro nutrients, so 3x a week, 5mls each time.
SeaChem Equilibrium 1/8 teaspoon after water change.


So the aquarist dose only 3 things really, KNO3, KH2PO4 on the day of the water change then every other day there after, traces of the off day till the next week rolls around. Do a 50-70% water change, dose the macro nutrients back, add the traces the following day and repeat. You can slowly back off this amount till you notice plant growth differences to tailor your individual tank’s need, but all you will do is waste some macros and traces by adding more than the plant needs. You should give each change in your routine about 3 weeks before making another change. This will take time but is worth the time spent. It will not cause algae unless you over look something, namely CO2 or under dosing KNO3 which both of these account for about 95% of all algae issues. If you focus on the plant’s needs, the algae will no longer grow. I hope this helps and ends much frustration for the aquatic gardener so then aquarist may focus on aquascaping and growing plants rather than asking how to kill algae. The aquarist does not have to stick with merely a weekly routine with the water changes or accept 50% as their volumes. This will level off the dosing at 2x the dosed amount so that nothing will ever be overdosed beyond 2x the target range.
The info above is a quote from Tom Barr's article "The Estimative Index". The full text is available at "barrreport.com". That sample dosing schedule is for a 20 gallon high light tank. Given that your tank is 10 gallon and relatively low light I would cut that dosing schedule at least by half. Greg at "gregwatson.com" can also guide you in this regard.

Good luck, Bill
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2005, 06:34 PM
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This is what I use on my high light / pressurized co2 10gal.

Sunday - 50% Water change, 1/4tsp NaHCO3
Monday - 1/8tsp KNO3, 1/32tsp K2S04, 1/32tsp KH2PO4
Tuesday - 3ml trace
Wednesday - 1/8tsp KNO3, 1/32tsp K2S04, 1/32tsp KH2PO4
Thursday - 3ml trace
Friday - 1/8tsp KNO3, 1/32tsp K2S04, 1/32tsp KH2PO4
Saturday - 3ml trace

You may or may not need the NaHCO3, I do to get my KH up to 4.

10gal / Bleeding heart tetras, angel & silver hatchets / Filstar XP2 / 8wpg PC / 2.5lbs of Co2 / Hydor inline
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-24-2005, 11:37 AM
 
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Just a quick comment: 1" of peat moss is alot of peat. Normally you just want to sprinkle some on the bottom; not even enough to cover the bottom glass.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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Kyle, what light set up do you have for your 10 gal? I dread more money into what could turn into an algae farm, but maybe I need to up my lighting?!

As for too much peat, I learned that after the fact. They sold it in hard-formed bricks and so I simply COVERED the entire 10 gal in a 1-2" layer. OVER KILL!

As an aside, the tank has sprung a slow leak, so I bought a new 10 gal tank and more flourite ($30 ouch!) and will not lay peat down this time - at all - as many have said it was not necessary in the fist place.

I went to the LFS with a list of those strange sounding acronyms from the Barr Report. (Thank you btw for advising me it was for a 20 versus 10 gal). They sent me home with four products and the following advice

 Flourish™ for trace (5 mL/half capful twice a week).
 Flourish Excel™ for carbon (extra C02) few drops of daily
 Flourish Iron™ (half capful once a week).
 Flourish fertilizer tabs deep into the substrate for rooted plants
**SeaChem Equilibrium 1/8 teaspoon after water change. (they were out of this but have some on backorder for me.)

None of these things sound remotely close to the stuff printed above and all that aquarium over-my-head stuff. Is the LFS clerk leading me down the garden path again? She's the same one who had me fill my tank with the thick mass of peat!?!

P.S. I so appreciate all your advice and input everyone.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stcyrwm
The info above is a quote from Tom Barr's article "The Estimative Index". The full text is available at "barrreport.com". That sample dosing schedule is for a 20 gallon high light tank. Given that your tank is 10 gallon and relatively low light I would cut that dosing schedule at least by half. Greg at "gregwatson.com" can also guide you in this regard.

Good luck, Bill
What implications does the high vs a long have on this dosing routine?
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 03:50 AM
 
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the idea of using peat is kind of outdated-- unless of course your tayloring to soft water craving plants (toninas come to mind). Flourish products are more basic, or general need covering products meant mostly for the beginners, though I think they're also very useful for the smaller tanks (especially excel on thos puny tanks you can't figure out how to put a CO2 regulator on).
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 12:39 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwl
What implications does the high vs a long have on this dosing routine?
Do you mean a high tank versus a long tank?????

If so, it affects the lighting factor a little bit but IME not nearly as much as things like quality of reflector and type of bulb. Dosing routines are based to a large extent on lighting with tanks above 2 wpg compact fluorescent needing CO2 and lots more ferts than below 2 wpg which can manage well without CO2 (although it still helps) and with simpler fert regime.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 01:35 PM
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andrewwl when I said high light I meant lots of high powered lighting. I have a 2x40watt current-usa fixture over my 10gal. I realize that WPG formula breaks down a bit on large and small tanks, but 2x40watts over such a small tank is considered "high".

Here's the fixture I use: http://www.thatpetplace.com/Products.../Itemdy00.aspx

10gal / Bleeding heart tetras, angel & silver hatchets / Filstar XP2 / 8wpg PC / 2.5lbs of Co2 / Hydor inline
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Very cool light, Kyle, but more expensive than I wanted to get into. Maybe in a few months if my plants don't prosper under 2 wpg.

If I'm reading the feedback correctly, the flourish products I've bought is for beginners (which I am - new to plants and scared to death about the fertilizing stuff) and probably suffice for a low-light set up like mine (2 wpg) which infuses DIY C02.

So, based on that, do yuo think the following regieme looks right?

Flourish™ for trace (5 mL/half capful twice a week).
Flourish Excel™ for carbon (extra C02) few drops of daily
Flourish Iron™ (half capful once a week).
Flourish fertilizer tabs deep into the substrate for rooted plants
SeaChem Equilibrium 1/8 teaspoon after water change.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 08:52 PM
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If you are running DIY CO2, you shouldn't need excel.
What are your kh/gh out of the tap? You may not need the equilibrium.
Don't think they'll hurt anything, but you might as well save your $ to spend on more fun things.
One thing I don't see in your regimen are any macros - nitrate, potassium, phosphorus - for the water column. Your plants probably need those more than the iron you are presently adding.
I believe Seachem makes liquid products for them, but you should compare the cost of even a small bottle of each, to what will be a several years' worth supply from Greg Watson.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Wow, great advice. I will run a test of my tap water this afternoon and repost.
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