2.5 Gallon aquascape/planting and tech advice - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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2.5 Gallon aquascape/planting and tech advice

First Thread guys!! So excited to join the community.

I recently scaped a glass 2.5 gallon tank measuring 10L X 6W X8H. I bought an Azoo 60 filter and a Finnex Stingray clip on light (white, blue, and red,) and I plan to run DIY co2 diverting off of the main system I use on my planted leader tank. Fluval stratum, crushed root tabs.

My questions include…
The stingray looks visually bright, but any idea idea as to if this would constitute high light? I will include a photograph. If I manage to rig the Co2 properly, I'm interested in trying my luck with dwarf baby tears, to keep the scale right, but I could use monte carlo, as I have had success with it in the past. That leads to my next question; should I attempt to dry start this bad boy? the stratum is VERY light, and I'm concerned that the large bank I have in the back left will unceremoniously level if I fill it with water. I figured I could try my hand at a dry start to allow the carpet's root system to support the substrate before I fill.

Alsoooo….Glosso factory all in one fertilizer. Yes, no? Maybe so?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a better photo. Click image for larger version

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RyeFresh View Post
Here's a better photo. Attachment 890205
I love these gravity defying photos how do you do it!?
Joking aside you can look up finnex clipon par there are some graphs and youtube reviews that will give you par info.

according to the below link https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...ead-watts.html

Quote:
"Low light - 15-30 micromols of PAR - CO2 is not needed, but is helpful to the plants
Medium light - 35-50 micromols of PAR - CO2 may be needed to avoid too many nuisance algae problems
High light - more than 50 micromols of PAR - pressurized CO2 is essential to avoid major algae problems"
I'm using 2 clipons on a 6g bookshelf tank on a windowsill with soil base, crypts and moss mostly. Have some hair algea but that's probably from the indirect sunlight.
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Due to photobuckets new bs cost for use of images on forums I have deleted all photobucket accounts. I apologize if you enjoyed or found my photos helpful.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 08:11 PM
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The hard scape looks fantastic! One thing to keep in mind is that the hard scape is the bones for your garden. Those smaller rocks will quickly be overcome by most carpeting plants.

Looking forward to seeing your tank grow!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 09:53 PM
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Yep agree on small rock vanishing once carpet plants become involved. Better use would be to assemble a small pile of some of them 2/3 way over to right and slightlymore forward than main rock on left to act as a counter point/provide balance between left third of tank and right third.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 12:18 PM
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If you use a colander, clump of paper towels, or bubble wrap your hill should not collapse when submersed. It may collapse when you fill it because of the water falling on it, hence the various options to diffuse the water so it doesn't hit the substrate directly.

I have done exactly one dry start on a reasonably level surface and found it very easy to do. Other people have trouble with dry starts when they either 1) can not be around their tank every day to spray it 3-6 times a day, and/or 2) have hills in their tank such as you have that will mean the middle and top portions of your scape will dry out quicker and more thoroughly then the bottom portions, thus keeping everything moist is very difficult.

I echo the others that your scape looks great now but will not look as good with carpeting plants. So you may want to redo anyway.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 12:28 PM
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Purely the way I see your tank and it's ultimately up to you. If your going with stem plants those thin twigs would look good the way they are, poking through once it fills in. If you only going with ground cover than I would bunch them up more around the main rock area.

As far as the rocks working with HC, I would just remove some of the flatter ones, so theres more room for the carpet. Other rocks you can either pull up a bit or put a small flat stone like slate under then to give them some more height so they won't get lost in the carpet.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I did some einsteining from a formula i found on reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/PlantedTank..._and_distance/
I seems like i should be getting around 40 at the lowest part of my substrate, 9 inches from the fixture, when water is added. I can work with that.

Bump: As far as the rocks working with HC, I would just remove some of the flatter ones, so theres more room for the carpet. Other rocks you can either pull up a bit or put a small flat stone like slate under then to give them some more height so they won't get lost in the carpet.[/QUOTE]

I do agree. I'll make some of the larger ones protrude from the substrate higher so they will survive the carpet onslaught.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by minorhero View Post
If you use a colander, clump of paper towels, or bubble wrap your hill should not collapse when submersed. It may collapse when you fill it because of the water falling on it, hence the various options to diffuse the water so it doesn't hit the substrate directly.

I have done exactly one dry start on a reasonably level surface and found it very easy to do. Other people have trouble with dry starts when they either 1) can not be around their tank every day to spray it 3-6 times a day, and/or 2) have hills in their tank such as you have that will mean the middle and top portions of your scape will dry out quicker and more thoroughly then the bottom portions, thus keeping everything moist is very difficult.

I echo the others that your scape looks great now but will not look as good with carpeting plants. So you may want to redo anyway.
My next semester is online, so ill be nice and cozy in my place a lot to keep it wet. I didn't actually give much consideration to the sloping making moisture retention difficult. Could even lead to some pooling towards the front in attempts to keep the elevated regions moist. Good advice
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Purely the way I see your tank and it's ultimately up to you. If your going with stem plants those thin twigs would look good the way they are, poking through once it fills in. If you only going with ground cover than I would bunch them up more around the main rock area.
How would you feel about dwarf sag? The tank is tiny. I feel as if stems could be a lot of trimming.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 04:11 PM
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How would you feel about dwarf sag? The tank is tiny. I feel as if stems could be a lot of trimming.
Dwarf Sag can work. Problem with dwarf sag is, that it's not always so dwarf. Everytime I've had it they grow pretty big. They will also take over a small tank pretty quickly and you'll be digging it up, which is worse than trimming.


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-03-2019, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Dwarf Sag can work. Problem with dwarf sag is, that it's not always so dwarf. Everytime I've had it they grow pretty big. They will also take over a small tank pretty quickly and you'll be digging it up, which is worse than trimming.
Interesting. I'll do some research and try to find something for background height. Thanks Asteroid
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carpet plant, dry start method, finnex stingray, nano aquascape

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