I use complete RO water. My tap water is very hard. GH =23
I dont have No3 and PO4 test kit, but will bought some early.
I use ADA africana aquasoil and mine is 2.5 yrs old.
Flow is 650lit/hr with a HOB, using ceramic rings, Ada bio rio, purigen.
CO2 is 66.4 PPM from pH and KH
The ADA (I’m not an ADA expert) puts a twist in here but, given the age, it may not be adding much of anything at this point. As I’m sure @Seattle_Aquarist
will suspect, if you are only using RO and only adding magnesium, I don’t see any way that calcium is present if the ADA is no longer contributing. Do I see leaf tips turning down (a sign of Ca deficiency)? Given 30% water changes, I’m thinking that your GH numbers are almost pure magnesium (a little Ca from the Flourish Comp) from the cumulative effect. You could do yet more testing with a Ca test, but it might just be easier to add some calcium along with the magnesium.
Iron: if I’m, reading the Aqua forest AF Iron Boost directions right, you’re adding .04ppm of iron per week. You could add that same amount daily and still be good.
More testing: do you have a TDS meter (about $13 on Amazon)? I’m wondering if your RO water is truly generating pure water. A TDS reading should be zero. The membranes need replacing every 6-10 months. I don’t see how the KH can be so high with what you’re adding and, I think, the ADA is actually supposed to drive KH down (when it’s fully charged). Check the expiration dates on your GH/KH kits.
And more testing: until you get the NO3 and PO4 tests, we can’t really guess too well whether or not your nutrients are limited.
Well, the calculator isn’t going to help with CO2. If you had 66ppm, your fish would be floating. Either your KH or pH, or both, tests are off, which isn’t unusual. It wouldn’t take more than a few tenths of a point to skew the results that far. However, given the general regions of the two, you are probably in the 30ppm area for CO2. A better test would be to put some tank water in a glass and let it sit out a day or two to fully de-gas. Then measure the pH (which are difficult to read) of that water and the tank water and see how much of a point difference there is between the two. A 1 point difference would put you in the ideal 30ppm area.
Summary: I’m going out on a limb and prescribe without having data:
Add something like Seachem Equilibrium to your RO water
Ada Brighty K: 3 ML 3 times in a week (9ML Total) – eliminate (replaced by Seachem Equilibrium)
Flourish Nitrogen: 9.1 ML once in a week – double this
Flourish Phosphorus: 15ML once a Weak – double this
Flourish Comprehensive: 1 ML 4 times in a week (4 ML Total) – double this
Aqua forest AF Iron Boost - 1.8ML once a week – eliminate (replaced by Flourish Comp)
MgSO4 - 2 gm once a week – eliminate (replaced by Seachem Equilibrium)
Move to 50% water change weekly
When you finally get your NO3 and PO4 tests, report back and we will see if changes need to be made. Watch new growth for signs of improvement over the next two weeks.