Newbie, found gross pink stuff - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Newbie, found gross pink stuff

Newbie here, first post, first fish. I got a betta on the 8th, and hastily set everything up. Tetra Water Wonders 1.5G tank kit, Whisper filter, LED lamp, couple fake plants, and pieces of Java fern and beach glass that I added. Didn't let the tank cycle properly before putting the fish in, but did daily water changes. Using room temp Brita filtered water, Nutrafin Betta Plus tap water conditioner and bowl cleaner. There are probably a lot of other things I have done incorrectly here. So I have a problem. Today I noticed my fish having some trouble in the back corner where he likes to chill. I thought maybe there were too many things crowding him in, and I moved a piece of Java fern so that he had more room. After moving the piece of fern, I noticed what looks like pink fiberglass insulation growing on a piece of gravel.


I tried not to disturb the junk too much while I removed it, but I noticed it floating around other parts of the tank, so it might have been growing throughout all the gravel. So I freaked out and removed my fish and emptied the tank, and I plan on really scouring all the gravel, and unattaching my piece of Java fern from the piece of beach glass I tied it to. I'm afraid maybe the glass is the culprit here. I'm absolutely terrified. I really love my fish and I don't want him to be in any danger. What do I do? I'm sorry if this is in the wrong place.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 11:41 PM
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Didn't let the tank cycle properly before putting the fish in, but did daily water changes.
I assume you are still doing daily water changes, as an ammonia spike could kill your Betta rather quickly.

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So I freaked out and removed my fish and emptied the tank, and I plan on really scouring all the gravel, and unattaching my piece of Java fern from the piece of beach glass I tied it to.
I assume you scrubbed everything (including the beach glass) you found prior to putting it into the aquarium.

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I'm afraid maybe the glass is the culprit here. I'm absolutely terrified. I really love my fish and I don't want him to be in any danger. What do I do? I'm sorry if this is in the wrong place.
The glass is likely not the culprit. However, it would help if you could provide us with the temperature of the water and/or any water parameters (ammonia/nitrite, etc). I suspect the latter to be the problem.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
I assume you are still doing daily water changes, as an ammonia spike could kill your Betta rather quickly.


I assume you scrubbed everything (including the beach glass) you found prior to putting it into the aquarium.


The glass is likely not the culprit. However, it would help if you could provide us with the temperature of the water and/or any water parameters (ammonia/nitrite, etc). I suspect the latter to be the problem.
you dont need to cycle such a small tank

what kind of fake plants because some with get caught on the bettas fins and rip them

and actually bettas are very tolerant of amonia but still do WCS
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 04:42 AM
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you dont need to cycle such a small tank
Dare I ask why you would not need to?

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Darkblade:
I am still doing daily 10-ish% water changes.
I put my rock and beach glass in boiling water before adding them to the tank. I rinsed all the gravel, and the filter.
Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment for checking water temperature or ammonia/etc levels. I am going to purchase these items hopefully on Monday, as well as some Java moss to help regulate things naturally.
Sollie:
I don't know what kind they are, exactly. The box just says 2 decorative plants. They have been removed.
_________
After my post, I promptly removed and washed everything, except for the fake plants and beach glass, which were not returned to the tank. I only used water, no soap. The fish is in slightly warmer water and is much more active.
I'm very new to this and basically have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm trying to learn as I go along.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 03:04 PM
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Just a word regarding the test kits; I would recommend the liquid type (as opposed to the test strips), as they are less prone to poor storage conditions and are in general, more accurate.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2010, 07:32 PM
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Hi Milq

What are you feeding your betta? Maybe the pink stuff is just food that the betta hasn't eaten, swollen and hanging around? I have some sinking tablets that look like that if they don't get eaten.

I think that if you vacuum the pink stuff out (using a hose or siphon) and do a partial water change, your betta will be fine.

I feed my betta Hikari betta food. The pellets float and he eats them all immediately. Nothing falls to the bottom.

By the way, I don't think that you need to run your water through the Brita filter first. I just get mine straight from the tap and add water conditioner to remove the chlorine.

I recommend using an inexpensive floating glass thermometer to check the temperature of the water that you are adding to your tank, and to check the temp of the water that your fish is in.

Good luck!
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Darkblade: If I could afford like six different test kits I would definitely go for the drops, but the economic option was a set of strips that test ammonia, and a six-in-one that measures nitrate, nitrite, chlorine and chloramine, hardness, alkalinity and pH. I'm not too bad at matching the colors, except for alkalinity and pH.

So far I am at the ammonia level marked "stressed" just after "ideal". Everything else seems to be fine, but I am having trouble balancing general pH.

Morainy: I bought a kit with bowl cleaner and water treater, and it came with a thing of Nutrafin Max betta color enhancing flakes, with pieces of blood worm in it. He doesn't care much for the flakes or the worm pieces, so I got some Top Fin color yadda yadda betta pellets and he likes those pretty well. So far I think his favorite thing is peas.

I took the pink weird stuff out with a ladle. Yeah, I guess it could have been a monstrously reconstituted piece of flake that didn't get eaten. I have a gravel vacuum now, so I can clean that junk out without disturbing the whole tank. That is definitely going to become part of my water change routine.

I've heard Hikari is the best, but I couldn't afford the higher quality stuff on this trip.

Keep hearing I don't need to filter the water, but our water has a ton of junk in it from inside the pipes, you know? The water is so iffy around here that I won't drink it straight-up after it has been filtered. We live pretty close to the local water treatment plant, so everything's kinda funky up in here. Brita is a must.

I got me a thermometer that makes no sense to read, but it has a handy safe for tropical fish zone marked on it, between around 70-80F, and I'm generally able to stay between it. I have no sense for temperature, so I accidentally go from low to high 70s in a blink when I change the water. I'm really lucky my fish is such a trooper.

Thanks for the luck, I really need it.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 02:32 AM
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Hikari changed their formula so it isn't the best anymore. Also you can order a master test kit from Walmart.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Freshwater...c-Pets/3635493

Don't give betta peas too often, once a week. Only more if he is constipated.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 06:35 AM
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Darkblade: If I could afford like six different test kits I would definitely go for the drops, but the economic option was a set of strips that test ammonia, and a six-in-one that measures nitrate, nitrite, chlorine and chloramine, hardness, alkalinity and pH. I'm not too bad at matching the colors, except for alkalinity and pH.

So far I am at the ammonia level marked "stressed" just after "ideal". Everything else seems to be fine, but I am having trouble balancing general pH.
Test kits are not that much; you can usually order them online for much cheaper than you get them at the local retail store.

You really only need ammonia and nitrite for the time being. pH, kH, gH are nice to "know" once, and then, I really would only check them if something went wrong. Nitrates and phosphates are nice to check once in a while, especially if you have a planted tank, but are not necessary in your situation.

However, as you can already see from the strip type test kits, they do not actually give levels, and just ranges. What is defined as "stressed"? 2 ppm of ammonia? 5 ppm? Of course, anything more than 0 would be considered "non-ideal". However, for your test strip, what is considered "ideal"? And so forth...Also, be careful with how you handle the strips and also how you store them, as poor storage conditions can render the entire box of test strips useless.

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Originally Posted by Milq View Post
I got me a thermometer that makes no sense to read, but it has a handy safe for tropical fish zone marked on it, between around 70-80F, and I'm generally able to stay between it. I have no sense for temperature, so I accidentally go from low to high 70s in a blink when I change the water. I'm really lucky my fish is such a trooper.
Try to keep your water temperature similar to the tank water when adding it back in (make note of your tank temperature, and then use the thermometer to measure the temperature of the new water you are adding. Adjust as necessary).

Anthony


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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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I'll get a proper test kit when I have more money.

My fish has fin rot now, so ...? I guess he's just going to die?
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 05:14 PM
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No, he will not die of fin rot unless you leave him in cold dirty water. Bettas are tropical fish that need temperatures of 78-83 degrees to be comfortable, healthy, and active. Room temp just doesn't cut it in the long term. As far as the comment that bettas are tolerant of ammonia--I disagree. They may not die from a spike as quickly as other species, but no matter who or what you are, no one likes swimming through and constantly having to drink and breathe in their own waste. You need to get a heater and change the water 100% more often. If you change 10% at a time, you don't get rid of all the ammonia, even if you do it every day, traces will still be there and continue to build up. If it were me, I'd ditch the whole 1.5G tank idea and get a larger tank with a filter that can be cycled. 1.5G would be very difficult to maintain a cycle in. I recommend getting a kit such as the Eclipse 3G from marineland, it comes with a filter, a good light for growing low light plants, and it can be safely heated. It's only about $45, but it is well worth the investment since the betta will be a fixture in your life for the next 3-5 years. You would kill yourself doing water changes in that little dinky tank. As for the fin rot, keep his water clean--I would change it 100% every other day at least. And get the poor guy a heater. I recommend hydor theos.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, Etcetera. I would absolutely love to get my boy a larger tank, but I have a ridiculously small budget. I'm going to have to wait until next month and convince people that I absolutely cannot carry on with something smaller than a toilet tank. I haven't even been keeping it full, due to a suspected swim bladder issue. Don't want him struggling to reach the top of the tank. I need something shorter and longer.

I am going to do the 100% water changes, get a heater when I get my bigger tank, cycle it, and... hopefully my fish will live!

Thanks for being here for me, everybody.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 06:19 PM
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When my betta boys get sick I keep them in rubbermaid bins, the two gallon ones are about $2, they are long and rectangular and serve this purpose well. As long as they are new/have never seen soap they are safe for fish. They also can be safely heated. Whenever I had tank emergencies the fish go into the bins, lol. I also use them to hold water for water changes. One to empty the old water into before I pour it out, and one to hold new water--I have an extra heater for the new-water-bin so I don't have to worry about matching temperatures. Good luck with your fish. A slightly larger tank would be safer and less work, tell your parents that you're less likely to spill tons of fishwater all over their prized possessions since you can maintain a cycle in a 3G.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2010, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Haha! Parents aren't an issue here. It's my landlady and housemate that I have to convince. They're concerned about my financial situation more than they're worried about me having an accident. I'm going to look into getting a couple of those bins, if I can find them. Thanks again!
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