White slime of death... - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 03:48 AM
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OK, makes sense now. I would've probably used a half a bottle of Prime within those four days, but sounds like you have a method to your madness. Have you ever thought of getting an RO unit for those nitrates? Might take a big weight off your shoulders, I love it.
Didn't think of using Prime. I'll consider that next time (actually I have Amquel, which I think will also work).

I've somewhat considered an RO unit, but frankly I don't worry about my nitrates. For most freshwater fish and invertz, levels like I have are no problem, and I just won't bother with anything that may be nitrate sensitive. I don't want to start having to do all my water changes out of water collected from an RO unit.
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post #32 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 01:29 AM
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Just be careful about your KH, if it's low then heavy doses of Amquel Plus will crash your pH. Not sure if it's a pH shift that will harm fish but I don't chance it. I only use Prime for heavy emergency type dosing, and AQ+ when I know there's no biofilter in the tank I'm dealing with at the time. All my QT's and hospitals are freshly setup as needed, so no biofilter unless I use an old filter, then there are little betta tanks that get 100% water changes every few days, those get AQ+, too. If you have the old Amquel without the plus, then I don't think KH/pH is an issue, also not an issue for dry, buffered Amquel.

Prime should be dosed 3 to 5 times over the recommendation to deal with ammonia and nitrogen, and works for about 2 days.


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post #33 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 02:36 AM
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Just be careful about your KH, if it's low then heavy doses of Amquel Plus will crash your pH.
I have well water. KH is around 10.
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post #34 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 05:23 AM
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Has anyone treated Columnaris with Metronidazole? I've used 5 250MG tabs; 125MG over the course of the last 10 days (half pill, basically--I have a 10 Gallon aquarium).

There are several fish that just can't get rid of it. I did a water change about 3 -4 days ago (probably do another one in 3 or so days), and I haven't seen any new cases, but the old cases haven't cleared up.

I ran out of Metronidazole tonight, and added pimafix and melafix that I had left over last night. Now that I'm out of medicine, and the medicine I did add hasn't been 100 effective, what should I do next? Has anyone been successful with Metronidazole?

I just lost a guppy this AM.


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post #35 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 05:55 AM
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Start by putting your guppy in very brackish water. Columnaris can't survive in salt water. I think you want at least 1.003sg. I'm not sure the limit for guppies, but I know mollies can actually go in full marine salinity (1.024sg). I think this will take care of external columnaris infections, but probably not internal.

I've had my mollies in 1.010sg for the past 12 days. They finished a 6 day kanaplex treatment 3 days ago, and finished a 9 day oral nitrofurazone treatment today. I'm about to move them into a tank where I can better observe them (they've been in a 5g bucket). Some of these guys have had it come back twice, so I'm hoping the combination of salt, kanaplex, and nitrofurazone has finally licked it.

I haven't heard that Metronidazole helps with columnaris. I'd suggest you first try all following (those listed on the same line can be done in combination):
  • kanamycin (kanaplex) + nitrofurazone
  • maracyn + maracyn II (make sure your pH is below 7.5)
  • triple sulfa
Also raise the salinity when treating. I'm guessing maracyn II probably isn't going to work in brackish water because of the pH. Maybe you can just try adding regular aquarium salt instead, since I don't think it will affect the pH.

Unless you catch columnaris early, it is likely also an internal infection, so try treating orally. My understanding is that kanamycin is the best (and maybe only) of the above antibiotics to be absorbed by the fish when doing tank treatments.

I read that pimafix might be affective. I'm not sure about using it in combination with any other meds.
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post #36 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 02:54 AM
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Thanks for this advise. I think I am going to buy some Triple Sulfa tomorrow. Do folks trust API products? How about the product below?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...fm?pcatid=4829

Thanks for your help. The thing with salt is, I know plants don't like it. I'm afraid to add salt to the water. I don't have a separate tank to put the guppies.


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post #37 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 03:22 AM
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I think the API products are fine.

You should really consider removing any fish showing symptoms and treat them separately and aggressively, and possibly still treat the rest of the tank with something like Triple Sulfa. Otherwise you might be fighting this for a long time.

Also, you need to address whatever brought on columnaris. Unless you've added new fish recently, you probably have something causing the fish stress. Any of the following may have been what triggered columaris:
  • poor water conditions
  • sudden increase in water temp
  • sickly (old or frail) fish in the tank already
  • over crowded
  • bullying
There are probably others.
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post #38 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 06:13 AM
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It's definately in part due to these things:

# over crowded
# bullying

The tank is filled with guppies, and all the boy guppies do is hump the girl guppies. In fact, it's really only the girl guppies who are sick.

I hope to buy a new, larger tank (29 gallon?) soon. I'm going to separate the girls and the boys.


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post #39 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 05:14 PM
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One last question: is Triple Sulfa safe for the planted aquarium?


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post #40 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 06:00 PM
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One last question: is Triple Sulfa safe for the planted aquarium?
I believe so, but I don't know from experience. I don't recall reading about any antibiotics that are not plant safe. Seems like plant safety is mostly a concern with parasite medications that have copper.

Keep an eye on your ammonia and nitrites once you start treating. Many antibiotics will kill your bio bacteria.
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post #41 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 03:36 AM
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Just an update: I have been treating the tank with triple sulfa and it seems that it's improving quite a bit. I've gone through five doses. After the ten doses of triple sulfa are used, I will probably try to make sure it is eradicated by following with another treatment.

I have quarantined three sick fish that seem to have improved, but are still sick. Since I don't have a separate aquarium, I've placed them in a large clear plastic bag and dosed the bag with some extra triple sulfa.

No new cases. Any others that started to get sick, besides the three that are now quarantined (who were really sick before).


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post #42 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 03:44 AM
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Glad to hear you are making progress. 5g buckets from home depot make good cheap temporary tanks if you want something better than a plastic bag.
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post #43 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 04:02 AM
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But without a heater, doesn't ich become an issue?


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post #44 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 05:13 AM
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But without a heater, doesn't ich become an issue?
Who said anything about ich? Ich does not just spontaneously appear. It needs to be introduced to the tank, and without a host it dies on average in 4 days (depending on temp). Don't believe the old wive's tale that ich is in every tank waiting for the opportunity to strike.
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post #45 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-04-2010, 03:04 PM
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Even better. I do have an unused bucket or two around already. The three quarantined fish are looking even better. There's a small one that I'm afraid of still losing, but the other two are full of energy!


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