What is the best way to treat ick? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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What is the best way to treat ick?

What is the best way to kill ick?

Cut the lights, raise temperature to 85 degrees, wait until no more white spots then add aquarium salt and do water changes?

I have 2 sun sun UV filters with I think 9 watt UV light.

I am so pissed at Petco, I told them they had ick in their tank but they don't care. I bet they must have a shared filter or something.

Ugh.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 01:46 PM
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Hello mio...

The best treatment is to keep the tank water free of dissolved wastes that stress the fish and weakens the immune system. Change half the tank water a couple of times a week and add a tablespoon of standard aquarium salt to every 5 gallons of new, treated tap water. Also, do a good job of vacuuming the bottom material. Follow this until you see improvement.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 03:37 PM
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heat treatments and lots of water changes. I wouldnt bother with any salt. I've dealt with it successfully on a few occasions by gradually raising the tank temp to 90 degrees F and keeping it there for about 10 days AFTER you see no more white spots on any fish in the tank (this can sometimes mean keeping it at 90 for 14 days +).
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 06:43 AM
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Heat is the best way to treat Ich for sure, but 85F is not high enough. The Ich parasites stop reproducing at 86F and are killed at just under 90F. The higher temperature also speeds up their life cycle. However, some research will be necessary about the species you will be treating as some simply cannot handle temperatures this high. Doing small daily water changes are an essential part of heat treatment as is considerably increasing aeration. Lower the water level a bit for HOBs and/or angle spray bars higher to up surface agitation. If you've got airstones then drop them in the tank as well. There is an inverse relationship between water temperature and amount of gasses that can remain in solution so when you raise the temperature the amount of dissolved O2 will decrease.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 07:45 AM
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Heat alone doesn't work unless it's cranked up high enough to not be so great for quite a few fish. I'd suggest increasing the heat and combining it with a fairly mild medication, like Kordon Herbal. Probably better for the fish than cranking their body temperatures up ten degrees higher than is normal. Kordon Herbal is safe for just about everything other than ich, it's easy on the fish and won't hurt them or unduly stress them.
Indian Almond leaves are a decent addition, too, they help boost the fish's immune system and some pathogens don't really like the tannins and chemicals they release.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 07:49 AM
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Any anti-parasitic medication containing malachite/victoria green. Dose as directed. No messing with the temperature or dumping salt into your planted aquarium.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betta132 View Post
Heat alone doesn't work unless it's cranked up high enough to not be so great for quite a few fish. I'd suggest increasing the heat and combining it with a fairly mild medication, like Kordon Herbal. Probably better for the fish than cranking their body temperatures up ten degrees higher than is normal. Kordon Herbal is safe for just about everything other than ich, it's easy on the fish and won't hurt them or unduly stress them.
Indian Almond leaves are a decent addition, too, they help boost the fish's immune system and some pathogens don't really like the tannins and chemicals they release.
The Kordon "ich attack" product ???

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 08:55 AM
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Yep. I've used it in the past, it works really well, and it's invert-safe.


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 09:19 AM
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Ichthyophthirius tomites move about looking for a host, which they must find within 2 to 3 days at 75 F (24 C) or they may die. Cooler temperatures will lengthen this time. IT IS THIS FREE SWIMMING STAGE that is most vulnerable to treatment. Once the tomite attaches to the host, it matures and the cycle begins anew.

The parasite forms a nodule under the skin or gill epithelium of the fish host. It constantly turns and moves under the skin, feeding on destroyed cells and body fluids. It continues to feed on the cells until it matures, causing damage to the skin tissue. This leads to osmotic stress, often resulting in secondary bacterial or fungal infections.

It is this osmotic stress that is often exasperated due to poor aquarium water parameters.

Healthy fish can usually produce enough mucous to prevent the ich tomites from getting started, but once these tomites get a foot hold on a stressed fish, even the healthy fish get overwhelmed.

This is the reason many treatments fail, as osmotic function in the fish is poor and not addressed in treatment/prevention.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 12:58 PM
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That is why I do not buy anything from chain stores, if you do QT, if for some reason you can't QT, use Paragard dip before you put the fish in the tank.

As stated above the heat and salt, one of the best products is http://www.amazon.com/Mardel-Quick-Cure-Aquarium-Treatment-4-Ounce/dp/B000255MSS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
But prevention is ultimately the Best solution, but we are all human and we make mistakes.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster Fish View Post
Any anti-parasitic medication containing malachite/victoria green. Dose as directed. No messing with the temperature or dumping salt into your planted aquarium.
Personally, hate this stuff. Kills shrimp and snails and stains silicone. I used it once when I was new to the hobby, but now I avoid it like the plague. Many do prefer it because it does work and it's easy to use. I prefer the heat and salt method. One tablespoon of salt per five gallons had no noticeable effect on my plants. I do have "beginner" plants though. Just make sure whatever fish you have can take the heat.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BettaBabe View Post
Personally, hate this stuff. Kills shrimp and snails and stains silicone. I used it once when I was new to the hobby, but now I avoid it like the plague. Many do prefer it because it does work and it's easy to use. I prefer the heat and salt method. One tablespoon of salt per five gallons had no noticeable effect on my plants. I do have "beginner" plants though. Just make sure whatever fish you have can take the heat.
Yeah, it's not really invert safe. The best prevention however is a quarantine for at least 4 weeks. That way you can treat the ich however you wish without any harm to your plants and inverts in your display tank.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 06:06 PM
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An ounce of prevention...

Each local branch of a chain store might be better or worse than average, but most are ruled by corporate headquarters, so are run in a standard manner. It is up to the store manager and the aquatics department supervisor how well they can run their department within corporate regulations. Some seem to do a better job than others.
The local Pet Co (I have been in at least 4 within 50 miles) stores are so bad that when they opened a new one I never bothered to go in.
The local Pet Smart stores (about 5 in the same radius) are reasonable, and one is pretty good. (One of these was pretty bad, they closed)

Treatment depends on the fish.

If the fish will tolerate the heat, any you can maintain the tank well over 85 degrees F (probably closer to 90 to make sure all the tank maintains 86 degrees) then most strains of Ich will die.
There is less oxygen in the water, so increase aeration by adding a bubbler, a power head, or altering the location of the outlet from the filter for more surface movement. You could lower the water level in the tank so water from the filter splashes more.

If the fish will not tolerate the heat or low oxygen, you may still increase the temperature to the maximum level tolerated by the fish (increasing aeration). This will speed up the life cycle of Ich so treatment is over sooner. Add to this whatever treatment you want. This might mean only the mid 70s for cool water fish.

Salt: If you fish will tolerate salt, then add the maximum they will tolerate. (See your other post- and do not split posts that have the same question).

Other meds: They will all kill Ich. But research for side effects and details that may not be obvious.
If you are using a dye based medicine do not use Amquel products as a dechlor (read the Amquel labels)
If you are combining meds make sure both are safe for use with each other. If you are adding salt read the label on medicines and make sure it is OK with salt (if it will treat brackish or salt water fish this is good for salted fresh water tanks).
Use ALL medicines until at least 4 days past the time you saw the last Ich spot on any fish. Do not believe the labels that say you just need to use it for a short time. Re-read post #9: Ich spends most of its time in a stage that is not susceptible to medicines. You need to keep the medication going for 2 full life cycles to make sure that any slower growing or hidden Ich is treated. Note: Ich can hide in the gills where you cannot see it.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 02:30 PM
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I've used ApPro in the past with good results. In my experience you have to diagnose it pretty early or else the chance of survival is not so good regardless of treatment. Also be sure to understand how heat effects this organism. It lives free floating or on settled substrate. Once it attaches to the fish it forms a cyst and begins to feed. These are the white "sugar-like" specks you see. In this cyst state treatments have no effect. It's only when it detaches from the fish in order to reproduce that it is supsetible to treatment. Which is why it's recommended to slowly raise the temperature of the tank and then begin treatment. I've also used a little aquarium salt during this process as it allows better oxygen (which decreases in higher temps and with certain meds) process through the fishes gills making the treatment a little easier for the fish.
Also something to consider could be seachem stress guard. Once these cyst detach from the fish they leave open wounds where they have fed. Stress guard should bind to those wounds. A liquid bandage if you will.
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