Cardinal tetra water parameter - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Cardinal tetra water parameter

I love the look of cardinals more than neons, but I also heard they are more picky about water parameters. My current tank is very stable and I would prefer not to change the status quo.
Current parameters are
Temp: 76
Ph: 6.9-7.1
KH: 5
Gh: 7
Is this too hard of water?

Thanks for your help!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 02:26 AM
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Add a few almond leaves to tank and acclimate them well for both temp and water hardness and you should be fine.

How big a tank is it?
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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It's a 20 gallon. I have Indian almond leaves, I'll add them before I put in the tetras. If I can get them past the acclimation, will they be ok long term in hard water/7.0 ph?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jmas4 View Post
It's a 20 gallon. I have Indian almond leaves, I'll add them before I put in the tetras. If I can get them past the acclimation, will they be ok long term in hard water/7.0 ph?
Acclimation to me is hardest part to bringing in soft water fish into a harder water environment. Through eons of evolution they are use to and have osmotic regulators that are meant to take them from normal soft-water to a rapid influx even softer rainwater (monsoon season). They survive a drop in osmotic pressure just fine, but take that same cardinal and throw in a rapid increase in GH and TDS and they have nothing in their arsenal to deal with it. Osmotic shift upwards can be deadly or at least stun fish severely.

When you get cardinal in set bag in a water pitcher, open up bag wide open at top , use a turkey baster or bulb syringe to aerate (bubble into) the bags water to drive off any ammonia built up in bag, then after about 5min measure both the bags GH and your tanks GH so you know what kind of shift your going to get.

If your tank is higher GH be extra careful, remove a turkey baster full of water from bag, dump it into waste, replace it with same amount of tank water, wait 10min, do it again 2-3times, then about 40min later you’ll be ready to release cardinal into tank.

If you can set up a IV drip into bag of cardinals even better. The longer and slower you can make that transition from lower GH to higher GH the better.

Slow changes are always better than rapid ones regardless of which way your going in water parameters, always. That includes when your doing water changes or dosing etc, huge changes in water parameters are almost always detrimental when they happen rapidly, slow and steady wins race every time.

@Blue Ridge Reef sig says it best, “nothing good happens in a ecosystem fast” , live it, learn it. Osmotic rupture is a bitch, plants, they melt, livestock they develop secondary infections after fins rot away from necrosis setting in, such as bacterial or fungal infection after initial osmotic shock.

Bad part is many users will say change a bunch of water when in fact all those big ass water changes with improperly prepped water are what’s causing the problem to begin with. A bad water change with improperly prepped water is worse than doing nothing to your tank, your just shocking your livestock over and over again with rapid shifts in water chemistry. Make 100% sure your change waters PH, KH, GH match your tanks waters parameters.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 05-15-2020, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveKS View Post

Bad part is many users will say change a bunch of water when in fact all those big ass water changes with improperly prepped water are what’s causing the problem to begin with. A bad water change with improperly prepped water is worse than doing nothing to your tank, your just shocking your livestock over and over again with rapid shifts in water chemistry. Make 100% sure your change waters PH, KH, GH match your tanks waters parameters.

Yes, I agree with the last part of this statement -- "make sure of your water parameters". And, if your water is all good- then there is no need to "age" your water.



Ive raised wild fish from some of the softest water in South America available to aquarists: discus, geophagus, biotodoma cupidos, and Altum angels -to name a few. I dont prep my water. I dont have to. My pH is stable- within .4 degrees once degassed. (Im assuming "prepped" means "aged" and, possibly, with the addition of IAL.) I dont do leaves either. Dont need to.

Because I know my water, I am able to change large volumes of water frequently. For the fish that I listed, this is a necessity. If they are not given frequent water changes ( and water low in dissolved organics) they develop HITH and HHLE. My fish are not prone to secondary bacterial infections due to my frequent, high volume water changes.

OP: test your water. What is the ph coming out of the tap and 24-48 hours later after being de-gassed? Is it within .4 degrees? Then you are good. Your gh/kh is fine. Cardinals are no harder than neons. In my experience, wild fish are healthier than farm-raised fish. Way healthier.


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