Possible Ich - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Possible Ich

5 Black Cories qt'd for about 45 days, treated with 2 round of prazi, seemed good to go. They've been in the main tank for about 3 days, and with the light being poor in the qt, I think they're coming down with ich, or it's just dust from the sand, really hard to tell as they're quite small. Is there any point of moving them back to the qt? Never had to deal with ich before, I guess I let my guard down... Heat treatment is out of the question, fully planted tank. I'm thinking Ich-X if it progresses, but then again I have 16 kuhli loaches and 10 cories =[ @Discusluv come to the rescue please!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:07 AM
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Hmm. The main tank, have you added any plants, other fish in past 2 weeks?
45 days should be outside of the window of Ich developing in quarantine- unless you have added plants, other fish to quarantine or cross-contaminated from the display by adding fish or plants or using same python, nets, or by wet sleeves wtc....

Can you get a close up picture of corydoras?

180 g. low tech w/ wild South American cichlids, corydoras eques, and African Congo riverine tetras.
60 g. low tech w/ F1 Alenquer pair /Stendker "Tefe" discus and wild Altum Angels
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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I have added new plants, but not into the qt tank where the cories came from, so I don't think the plants brought anything in. It's 2am, but I'll try my best to get a few pictures tomorrow. I hope I'm overthinking it. Never had to treat the main tank, and not looking forward to it =[
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:27 PM
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Actually, it is possible if you have just added plants within last 2 weeks to your display tank and just added the corydoras in last 3 days to the display tank that it could be Ich. However, you would be more likely to observe the Ich attacking the kuhli loaches most severely than the corydoras- they are scale-less and most vulnerable to external parasites.

180 g. low tech w/ wild South American cichlids, corydoras eques, and African Congo riverine tetras.
60 g. low tech w/ F1 Alenquer pair /Stendker "Tefe" discus and wild Altum Angels
30 g. low tech w/ Wild Tucano tetras
30 g. low-tech African Biotope
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I don't think it came on plants. Was only able to take a picture of one since the rest are hiding in bushes, and I think it is ich. Would it be too late to transfer them out of the tank?
On his side, behind the eye.
https://imgur.com/h99KVZI
https://imgur.com/NWQp1RE <- best picture
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:50 PM
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The one white dot? No, that in itself does not point definitively to Ich.

If there were more areas that that then I would feel differently. And, if had Ich, would need to treat the tank the parasite was in- it increases rapidly and when you finally see it on your fish that means it is most likely in water column and in substrate in different forms of its life-cycle. If in quarantine tank without fish it would die within 7-10 days at temps above 75 degrees without a host..

180 g. low tech w/ wild South American cichlids, corydoras eques, and African Congo riverine tetras.
60 g. low tech w/ F1 Alenquer pair /Stendker "Tefe" discus and wild Altum Angels
30 g. low tech w/ Wild Tucano tetras
30 g. low-tech African Biotope
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I bleached the QT tank already along with all the equipment just in case, and set it up for a daphnia culture I have on the way. The thing is, they all have at least 1 white dot on them, on different parts of their body. So what's the course of action, just keep an eye on them at this point?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:57 PM
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Any Ich medication that contains active ingredient - malachite or Victoria green if Ich .


If no increase:
Check water parameters- make sure 0/0/ under 20ppm.
Clean water is the best remedy when fish are showing signs of stress.
Feed daily a varied, high quality prepared food like New Life Spectrum and live and/or frozen foods - add a vitamin supplement to diet like Boyd's Vitachem.

180 g. low tech w/ wild South American cichlids, corydoras eques, and African Congo riverine tetras.
60 g. low tech w/ F1 Alenquer pair /Stendker "Tefe" discus and wild Altum Angels
30 g. low tech w/ Wild Tucano tetras
30 g. low-tech African Biotope
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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So you're advising to treat instead of waiting?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:09 PM
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I accidentally sent message before complete: treat with medication only if see an increase in spots on each fish.
Otherwise, no. At this time I see no need for medication unless: they are rubbing themselves against objects in aquarium, darting as if spooked or backing up as if getting away from something, and/or if they are having difficulty taking up oxygen and are hanging out at top of tank or near air stones.
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180 g. low tech w/ wild South American cichlids, corydoras eques, and African Congo riverine tetras.
60 g. low tech w/ F1 Alenquer pair /Stendker "Tefe" discus and wild Altum Angels
30 g. low tech w/ Wild Tucano tetras
30 g. low-tech African Biotope
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks a ton for your time! I just ordered 16oz Ich-x, hopefully I won't need it. I'll update the thread if anything new arises.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:57 PM
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I’d like to expand upon @Discusluv’s comments:

I agree about waiting until further evidence appears. However, I would always want to have on-hand some medication for this. I keep Seachem’s Paraguard for this and other targeted parasites. It is a good general-purpose medication.

If you do decide to treat, recognize that Ich has three stages and you can only kill it in one of those three stages. These are, in non-scientific terms:

- On/in the fish with white spots showing: can’t be treated. Best to hope for healthy fish to survive it and do what you can to minimize stress.

- Fall off the fish and lay on the ground incubating: can’t be treated.

- Hatch and start swimming to find a new fish to attack: this is the only point that the medicine works.

The whole process takes about a week. So, you usually want to continue treatment for at least two weeks after you see the last spot disappear.

Old wives tales:

- Salt kills ich: it can to some degree, but it dramatically increases the stress on some fish (osmotic pressure issues), making them weaker and is unnecessary given the medication available now.

- High temperatures kill ich: nope, it just speeds the cycle and, hopefully, the fish will survive a little easier but, again, the medications at current temperatures are a better approach.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @Deanna.
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