Grigg reactor - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Grigg reactor

Hi all,

Since I plan on building a 1000L (264 gal) planted tank which will need co2.
I'm considering a grigg style reactor which cannot be taller than 26 inches including bends etc for the plumbing.
it will be powered by a jebao dcs7000 which will provide a max flow of about 1800GPH, I plan on running it at 528~1000GPH.
so in order to reduce the flow enough in the reactor and to increase dwell-time I'm planning on making it 4.3 inches wide inlet and outlet will be around 1.5 inches.

will something like this set-up work?
If there is more co2 required than the reactor can process I can build a second reactor since there will be 2 pumps running in the sump.

I've already come to the conclusion that bigger is better and the slower the water moves the better the co2 gets dissolved.
that is why I'm planning on making it pretty wide.
the widest I can go is about 5 inches after that there are no unions etc. available to hook everything up.

Last edited by fietsenrex; 01-11-2016 at 01:56 PM. Reason: 5 to much
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 04:54 PM
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I would suggest making a rex grigg reactor with a by pass valve, that way not all the flow is going through the reactor itself. Even then you may need to have two of them to have enough capacity for that size of a tank. Here is a picture of one that I made, it has worked very well on a tank with an FX6 which has quite a bit of flow.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 09:38 PM
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Rather than one huge reactor, I like Nicocg's idea better but I might also go a bit further to allow for flexible changes if needed. The reactor size is a bit of guesswork when adapting to bigger tanks so I like to allow room for change.
You have quite a different situation as far as flow than many who have to worry about losing filter flow. I might suggest adding a bit more pipe at the two points just above or below the two tees. Like between the tee and the els? That would allow for a second or even third cylinder to be added by cutting the pipes and adding tees to run to the additions. But then you might find your calculated guess was spot on and the addition not needed and save the additional space if not needed. Total costs might be less due to the pricing of larger fittings?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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I understand the concept of having multiple smaller reactors, but I'm afraid it will to much of a pita to get it properly adjusted.
also if i use a bypass there would be less water in the reactor to get the co2 dissolved in.
I can probably get away with building 4 big reactors (2 on each pump in parallel), after that I will be running out of space in the cabinet.
but then again using more piping and unions I'm restricting my flow even further and I like having some "spare" flow on my pumps for when I need it.
please keep in mind that the pumps will only be running at 50-70% of their total power with the current set-up in mind
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilocg View Post
I would suggest making a rex grigg reactor with a by pass valve, that way not all the flow is going through the reactor itself. Even then you may need to have two of them to have enough capacity for that size of a tank. Here is a picture of one that I made, it has worked very well on a tank with an FX6 which has quite a bit of flow.


Do you think this size would work well for a 125 gallon? I was just building a straight stick out out of 1.5" pvc with a tee on either end. I'm new to injecting co2 into tanks as I've always just had smaller tanks that I dosed with liquid carbon. On the rex griggs reactor, is the idea that it's standing up and the water flows from top to bottom? That way when you inject co2 it tries to float up against the current which breaks it up right? Thanks!

Mike
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:33 PM
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yes this version should work very well for a 125g tank. 1.5" is probably not going to be larger enough for such a large tank. Yes that is the idea behind this type of reactor. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilocg View Post
yes this version should work very well for a 125g tank. 1.5" is probably not going to be larger enough for such a large tank. Yes that is the idea behind this type of reactor. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks
NilocG

Appreciate the info. What size reactor would you suggest I start at? Also when I said 1.5" I meant diameter, think you already knew that but wanted to clarify. So I'd make a 1.5" reactor at about 28" long.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:49 PM
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At least 2"
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:18 PM
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Great. Thanks for the help!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 04:52 AM
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Here's another idea if you have very high flow, or some flow to spare.

Add a cut-off valve to the out line of the reactor, and use it to restrict the flow. This will increase the internal pressure inside the reactor.

Here's mine that I run with a Hydor 600 canister, which is way too much flow for my 75 gallon.



The Hydor is adjustable, I was running it about 65%. Now have the filter wide open using the reactor valve to regulate the flow. Works perfect.


* Bio balls optional, internal pressure does the heavy lifting


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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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since I've ample flow to spare I'm giong to be an askhole and build 2 cerges style reactors.
this because I believe there is a greater amout of dwell time inside the reactor and pressure might also be a bit higher even without a shut-off at the end of the reactor.

I'm going to place a shut-off at the end of the reactor anyways to increase pressure inside the reactor if needed.
thanks for the hints and tricks

I might be dutch but I don't have a dutch scape.


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 05:02 PM
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Was discussing the Griggs reactor with Burr740 the other day and we both commented on "wouldn't it be nice to see whats going on inside?"
So, it's a very nice day today in Iowa and I figured I would spend some time outside and use a little of my DIY to see what does happen :-)
In the first video below, the bio balls I used were of a bigger size (hoping they would not get stuck in the outlet), but I forgot to check to see how well they float.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EJXcNAgJW0

In round 2, I tried the smaller bio balls which seemed to float nicely.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LGDYO2fsSw

Now, it might have been the angle of the video or maybe not but it seems in the second video there is less air bubbles bouncing around at the top of the reactor.

Up to you which way you want to go with your build :-)


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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 05:13 PM
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Good stuff @Immortal1 Thanks for sharing!


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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 08:31 PM
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Do you guys think that a jebao 8000 would be strong enough to run a 2" diameter 28" long reactor

Hard to tell in this pic but the pump is in the sump on the left. So the that would pump into the top of this reactor and then feed into the hose hanging from the tank on the right. Would I need a second pump or a stronger one to run this reactor? Thanks! Still a major noob with plants and co2.


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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 01:42 AM
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Immortal1, did you check the water coming out of each reactor to see how much CO2 it had? Perhaps by checking the pH? Perhaps make one more set up with no bio balls and see if that works, too.
Q: which method results in maximum CO2?
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